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Yeticom Optima 10/11/12 Meter Export Radio reviewed @ cbradiomagazine.com

  • Thread starter Thread starter BOOTY MONSTER
  • Start date Start date
Greetings,
I am new to the forum and just ordered a unit from Dave. For me, the next question is what antenna(s) should I use on my pick-up truck to optimize usage on 10m, 11m and 12m?
It is late here (2:40 AM) so I will ponder your question and answer it tomorrow.

However, you have made an excellent choice; the OPTIMA is a great rig. You may want to consider a new mic for the radio: the ICOM HM-36. This mic is available for about half-price at: Radio-Mart. It has higher output than the stock mic, and has a better frequency response. I get great reports with it. (You may have to roll back the mic gain, it has such high output!)
 
Greetings, I am new to the forum and just ordered a unit from Dave. For me, the next question is what antenna(s) should I use on my pick-up truck to optimize usage on 10m, 11m and 12m?
Excellent question!

Your choices are quite vast! You can use a 12M hamstick with a small tuner for 10 and 11M. You can use a 12M base loaded antenna (such as the Larsen NMO27 coil, with a 65" whip) with a small tuner for 10 and 11M. Or you can do the inverse: use a 10M antenna, with a tuner for 12 and 11M.

I personally use the Larson NMO34 coil, with 65" whip (W640) and a small spring (SPRING) on 10, and tune it for 11M with this handy little tuner (below).

Another alternative is a big coil antenna, (like a Predator 10K) with the longest shafts available. I don't know if that will tune 12M, but you can always try. Alternatively, you can use a 108" whip and tune it. That will work exceedingly well, but may be problematic in installation and use.

Here is the tuner I use. It is the ParaDynamics PDC-5 mini-tuner. It will handle up to 100W, and has a bypass switch so you can switch the tuner in and out of circuit for 10 or 11M. You can find it almost everywhere, including eBay. It is extremely small so it will easily fit any mobile. Has watt meter, and SWR meter too. I just love mine!

If you plan to run any kind of power, you'll have to use another tuner. You will probably have to add a stand-alone bypass switch (MFJ-1705H) (and maybe a stand-alone SWR meter). That starts to get complicated and starts to take up room.
 

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Ironically, just before I saw the Yeticom Optima online (on this forum), I was at a "CB shack", getting schooled on export radios for a set-up in my pick-up truck. I was looking at a Ranger Communications RCI-2950DX (Ranger RCI-2950DX-70DN2 Amateur 10 & 12 Meter Mobile Radio from Ranger Communications). The proprietor said that for the best usage, I would probably need two antennas on an A/B switch... one optimized for 11m band and the other optimized for 10m band.
*
The "Wilson 1000" (http://www.wilsonantenna.com/base_load.php)* was the antenna he initially suggested (one tuned for 11m and another tuned for 10m) - roof mounted on a pick-up truck.
*
We later shifted gears and discussed using the "Wilson Flex" (Fiberglass Antennas | Wilson Antennas), a top loaded, fiberglass antenna, 4 foot, 5/8 wave, 200 watts... mounted with a quick-disconnect on top of a Diamondback X Truck Cover (DiamondBack Truck Covers : DiamondBack-X). Again, one tuned for 11m band and one tuned for 10m band.

I am going to begin barefoot and see where it goes from there. From what little I have read so far, I might do ok plain vanilla.

I don't know anything about tuners. How much work is it to tune on the fly from one band to another, using the tuner you suggested?

Also, kindly explain what a "pill" is... (2 pill or 4 pill).

So what is the collective thought on running 2 antennas on an A/B Switch?

Thanks!
 
Add on...

Linears... Boosters... Is their use in mobile applications commonplace in the Export Radio arena? If yes, what are the more popular ones?

FYI... I am studying now for the Ham Technician License. I also plan to put a 2m / 70cm dual band radio in my Ford SVT Raptor F150 pick-up truck (probably a 50 watt Yeasu).

I guess eventually I will have the best of both worlds... lol.

Thanks again.
 
Lot's to chew on! Yes, you can run two antennas for each band, but the whole point of that tuner is that it has a bypass switch which allows you to adjust the antenna for one band and use it there, and use the tuner to tune it for the other. You simply switch the bypass switch in or out.

For example, in my case I use a Larsen NMO34 antenna with The 65" whip (equivalent to a Wilson 1000) tuned to 28.800 Mhz. I use it in the "bypass" mode (tuner out of circuit). For 11M, I switch in the bypass switch which puts the tuner in circuit. I pre-tune the tuner for let's say 27.200 Mhz. For 11M, I use the tuner, for 10M I switch it out.

You tune the tuner once only. Once set, you can forget it.

Antennas: Go for the longest possible within it's design. For a base loaded antenna such as the Wilson 1000, or the Larsens, go for the longest whips, typically giving you a 70" antenna. For a helical, I would go for nothing less than a 6 footer, 7 feet being better. A four foot helical has poor performance in my opinion, and it's too narrow band. An alternative is one of those "big coil" antennas. They work well on pick-up trucks; they are typically about 5' long or so.

Since you are using an "export" radio running comparatively high power you will need a high-drive amp. Don't fart around, go for a 4-pill job. I recommend the Texas Star DX500. It uses four 2SC2879 transistors, and will give you up to approximately 600W out depending on drive. Since it's a true Class AB amp, the output is directly proportional to the input. 10W drive will produce about 200W output. The approximate 15W AM drive of the OPTIMA will produce about 200W output. The 50W PEP input should drive the amp to full output. At 50W you will overdrive the amp, so turn down the power.

I absolutely do not recommend any low-drive amps, whatsoever, even when driven by a 4W CB. They are, for the most part, junk.
 
You too, have given me lots to chew on here. Let me digest this a bit.

10m/11m Equipment Installation: One thing that comes to mind is how am I going to mount all of this inside the truck. I have a floor shifter on a center console. I am not sure just yet, but I think the Optima may be too long to mount vertical inside of the center console and still close the lid.

Antenna/Tuner: The single antenna (Wilson 1000) with the tuner sounds like an interesting and practical solution. I am assuming that since the Wilson is a base-loaded antenna, I would have to roof mount it versus mounting a top-load fiberglass whip on the truck cover?

2m/70cm Equipment: When I pass the technician test and install a UHF/VHF Dual Band Radio... Am I going to want an amp for that radio too?

I am learning a lot from your input, thank you.

"Begin with the end in mind. Habit 2"
 
You too, have given me lots to chew on here. Let me digest this a bit.

10m/11m Equipment Installation: One thing that comes to mind is how am I going to mount all of this inside the truck. I have a floor shifter on a center console. I am not sure just yet, but I think the Optima may be too long to mount vertical inside of the center console and still close the lid.
It's actually shorter than a standard "DX" size export radio. However you can do what I did. I have lot's of radios in my car: a Yaesu FT857 with detachable head, (fits in dash "pocket") a 220 Mhz radio, a Yaseu FT-2900 and the OPTIMA . The 220 radio, the FT2900 and the OPTIMA all fit on a Panavise "Panamount", which I can manipulate to swing it over the shifter area of my Honda.

Antenna/Tuner: The single antenna (Wilson 1000) with the tuner sounds like an interesting and practical solution. I am assuming that since the Wilson is a base-loaded antenna, I would have to roof mount it versus mounting a top-load fiberglass whip on the truck cover?
Base loaded antennas work best on a ground plane such as a cab roof.

2m/70cm Equipment: When I pass the technician test and install a UHF/VHF Dual Band Radio... Am I going to want an amp for that radio too?
Depends on your location. Are you urban or rural? If you're urban (living in a town, or city), no, since you'll be local to the local repeater and local hams. If you're rural, then possibly yes, you may need an amp. Depends where you live. Note: Dual-band amps are relatively expensive.

I am learning a lot from your input, thank you.
"Begin with the end in mind. Habit 2"
No problem. Been doing this for over 40 years. Glad to pass on some experience! :wink:
 
Ok... More questions... LoL

Are you running your Optima without an amp?

Using your recommendations of the Optima, Wilson 1000, and the tuner... What would be considered a reasonable range on CB and on 10m ?

As you stated previously, if I was to run a 4 pill amp, that would require a different antenna tuner... Yada, Yada, Yada... becoming more equipment "heavy" in my set up. Not sure if I want to be so weighted. LoL

Thoughts?
 
Ok... More questions... LoL

Are you running your Optima without an amp?
At home (base) yes. Putting out about 50W, I get about 50 km/35 mi range, base to base. In the mobile, I get about 25 mi range, mobile to base, about 10-15 mi range car to car, (absolute limits of range). Mobile, I generally only use my 200W amp when working 10M band openings. Range undetermined. Only very rarely do I use it on CB. Local range then is increased by about 50%. I very rarely use my 4-pill amp; it's generally disconnected.
Using your recommendations of the Optima, Wilson 1000, and the tuner... What would be considered a reasonable range on CB and on 10m ?
See above. 10M and CB range is virtually identical.

As you stated previously, if I was to run a 4 pill amp, that would require a different antenna tuner... Yada, Yada, Yada... becoming more equipment "heavy" in my set up. Not sure if I want to be so weighted. LoL Thoughts?
For QRO use, I use the RF Limited KW-1 tuner for which I have a different switching arrangement. (I use an MFJ 1705H bypass switch to switch in the RFL tuner. It's normally out of circuit.)
 
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Ed,

You certainly are providing me with some quality "how-to" information. Being new at all of this, I am trying to digest and comprehend how all of this plays out in a mobile application.

Utilizing a 4-pill with the Optima in a mobile application, would I need a power supply box? Or is that just for base station operation?

Would one utilize a 4-pill amp in a mobile application, or is that overkill?

The more I learn, the more I realize what I don't know... lol.

Thanks!

John
 
Ed,

You certainly are providing me with some quality "how-to" information. Being new at all of this, I am trying to digest and comprehend how all of this plays out in a mobile application.

Utilizing a 4-pill with the Optima in a mobile application, would I need a power supply box? Or is that just for base station operation?
Base station only. In that case, you would need a minimum of 75 amperes. I'd recommend the Jetstream 75A power supply, due to it's price and quality. (MFJ sells the same p.s. under their name.)
Would one utilize a 4-pill amp in a mobile application, or is that overkill?
The 4-pill amp I would recommend is any decent 4 X 2879 amp, such as the Texas Star DX500. Such an amp can deliver as much as 500 - 600 W output, and may require 75A or more current. This may be problematic in some cars.

If 500W is not needed or if your headroom requirements are less, you can use the Texas Star DX350 series. These use only 2 X 2879's. I'm big on 2879's because they can handle almost any drive you give them. I resolutely do not recommend the 2SC2290 transistor for any high drive applications, which is what the OPTIMA requires. As well, the higher drive requirements of the 2879 means it has more headroom, more linearity range than any low drive transistor. To me, the 2290 is nothing but a splatter-box device, nothing more. Good only for 4W CB's. Drive it higher and you get nothing but trash out the back. The Texas Star DX350 series provides about half the power of the '500 series, about 350W with around 30A draw.

While I may never drive a 4-pill 2879 amp to full power, I like the idea of ample headroom in the amp. Particularly on 10M where a dirty, splattery amp would not be appreciated! Think of your neighbors!
 
I received my Optima today. I can't wait to install it in my pick-up truck.

I was quite impressed with the size of the radio (smaller is better).

Its crunch time now on deciding about antenna(s) and an amp. Ed has been most kind in getting me "schooled" on some of the basics.

I am still undecided on the antenna(s) I will use.

While a Wilson 1000/5000 would be best on the roof of the cab, practicality is telling me to mount in a lower location.

As such, I am thinking of a top-loaded Firestik, mounted to the bedrail or the Diamondback truck bed cover. There are no stake pockets in my bed (2011 Ford SVT Raptor F150).

Then is the question of whether I should utilize a single antenna with a tuner...

or...

Should I utilize two antennas (tuned for 10m & 11m) with an A/B switch.

Finally is the question of whether I should get an amp... or even if I need an amp.

Any recommendations are most welcomed. I just need to make some decisions... then "get 'er done" so I can get on the air. :biggrin:

Remember... I am "joe the new guy" to a lot of this... but I have a fast learning curve... lol.

73's to all...

John
 
I received my Optima today. I can't wait to install it in my pick-up truck.

I was quite impressed with the size of the radio (smaller is better).

Its crunch time now on deciding about antenna(s) and an amp. Ed has been most kind in getting me "schooled" on some of the basics.

I am still undecided on the antenna(s) I will use.

While a Wilson 1000/5000 would be best on the roof of the cab, practicality is telling me to mount in a lower location.

As such, I am thinking of a top-loaded Firestik, mounted to the bedrail or the Diamondback truck bed cover. There are no stake pockets in my bed (2011 Ford SVT Raptor F150).
There are various bed-rail mounts for pick-ups. A buddy uses a triangular plate mounted in the corner, with a suitable "gumdrop" mounted mounted on it. Breedlove Mounts has a vast variety of mounting systems. Or just Google "bedrail antenna mounts".
Then is the question of whether I should utilize a single antenna with a tuner...
or...
Should I utilize two antennas (tuned for 10m & 11m) with an A/B switch.
Only if you have the room for two antennas...
Finally is the question of whether I should get an amp... or even if I need an amp.
You have time to decide that. Run the rig barefoot for a while and see.

Now that you have the radio, you will definitely need a new microphone. I highly recommend the ICOM HM-36 mic, which is fully compatible with the OPTIMA, and has a higher output. I have one and it's superb! You will definitely need to run the mic gain back to the 2 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. It also sounds great on AM. You can get them from Radio-Mart. They have them available new for less than half-price.
 
antennas

I have to say I have tried a lot of different antenna setups over the last 40+ years of radio fun, on my truck is a Wilson 5000, by far the best antenna I have ever had on a mobile other than a 102" whip which was so directional mounted on the back bumper is was annoying, I drilled a 7/8 hole in the roof of my late model Chevy Tahoe for the antenna so that should tell you how much I knew the antenna was going to perform and work well for my application. My wife was out of her mind that I drilled a " big hole" in the roof but really it gets the best ground that way, I am planning on keeping the truck for awhile and they do make 7/8 rubber plugs in case I decide I want another vehicle any time soon. Just make sure you measure front to back, side to side, then check to see where the dome light is in relation to the center mark and try to get it as close as possible, makes running the wire a ton easier.
 

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