Ameritron's base amplifiers typically solder the "meter" circuit board to the rear of the meter's function selector switch. The threaded bushing of the switch body supports the circuit board. An efficient design for putting it together, but not so efficient if you need access to the circuit board later on. The knobs, pointers and front panel all have to come off just so you can loosen the meter switche's bushing nut.
Bah! Humbug! It won't seem so bad until the first time you find that you didn't quite "fix" the meter board 100 percent, and it has to come loose. Again.
Fortunately they made the faceplate hole for the switch shaft 3/8 of an inch. Makes it big enough for the draw bolt of Greenlee punch.
A 3/4-inch hole will be big enough for the head of my half-inch nutdriver. Won't have to remove the face next time that circuit board has to be molested.
And the knob is just big enough to cover it up.
And if I find myself repairing the meter board, or replacing the meter switch down the road, it will be a lot less aggravating to do.
73
Bah! Humbug! It won't seem so bad until the first time you find that you didn't quite "fix" the meter board 100 percent, and it has to come loose. Again.
Fortunately they made the faceplate hole for the switch shaft 3/8 of an inch. Makes it big enough for the draw bolt of Greenlee punch.
A 3/4-inch hole will be big enough for the head of my half-inch nutdriver. Won't have to remove the face next time that circuit board has to be molested.
And the knob is just big enough to cover it up.
And if I find myself repairing the meter board, or replacing the meter switch down the road, it will be a lot less aggravating to do.
73
