Would you consider 400 watts max a lot of power? Also, do you put a screw and washer through the coax braid?
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Bonding Vehicle
- Thread starter Nick23
- Start date
400 watts is not a lot of power but it is at a point where you want to make sure you are doing things right. Ideally the best way to install the straps is to solder a lug on the ends and use a stainless steel star washer and a stainless steel self tapping screw. Remove the paint from where the strap will make contact and spray a little spray grease or use some Scotch-Kote liquid electrical tape after to seal it. If you do not use lugs you can tin the braid with solder and either drill a hole in it after or make a hole in the braid with a pointed tool like an awl and then solder/tin it.
I was thinking about using some NO-OX-ID on my metal to metal connections like I did on my A99 joints. In the past I've always painted over the fresh connection with matching paint to seal the union from the elements. That's my preference. I've seen how bad a connection can rust and corrode.
You only need to use that width on longer runs. For short runs bridging hinges then flattened RG213 braid is enough.
If you're talking about the ones on the car and your car is under 15 years old then you don't need to. The last thing you want to be doing is sanding down to bare metal because you remove the zinc rustproofing. Just use serrated washers that cut through the paint and the zinc. The zinc then seals around the washers and you have one waterproof and corrosion proof connection. If you use decent serrated washers and stainless or zinc coated self tappers they don't rust.
I have a 99 Toyota. I will probably have to go the extra mile with every hole. That is why I have put off doing a hard mount. Thing rusts like crazy.
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