I just picked up a working SB 220. I plan on replacing several parts inside. My question is, what is the best way to clean inside of amp. Looks like a smoker may have owned it and I wanna wash the case and clean it up a bit before I replace HV board and caps. Will probably replace plate tuner as well with upgrade. Sockets look like they have seen better days as well so replacing these as well.
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Cleaning an amp?
- Thread starter Crusher
- Start date
You will find this is a little 'odd', but it does certainly work.
If you are going to be disassembling things anyway, remove the electrolytic capacitors and the meters, load the thing in the car and go to the car wash. Set the amplifier in the wash bay, and use soap and water until you are satisfied the thing is clean. Rinse well! And the important part, tip all the 'loose' water out of it (set it on all six sides and let it drain). And the other important thingy, blow dry it, lots of moving air! A shop-vac using the exhaust side, worked just fine.
It doesn't hurt is you very lightly re lubricate the variable caps, and also blow out any other variables and the switches. Give the thing a lot of time to dry. It helped that I did this on a hot day one summer.
At today's prices, expect to spend maybe $3.00 for the car wash? Don't use the 'Tire' or 'Engine' cleaning routines, just plain old soap and water.
I really did this with an SB-220, it worked, and also worked after reassembling it. Your milage may vary.
- 'Doc
The caps aren't 'sponges', don't soak up water, but the thingys that hold them all together will retain a lot of water. The meters -will- get water into them! Lubinb the variable caps is a real treat, have fun.
If you are going to be disassembling things anyway, remove the electrolytic capacitors and the meters, load the thing in the car and go to the car wash. Set the amplifier in the wash bay, and use soap and water until you are satisfied the thing is clean. Rinse well! And the important part, tip all the 'loose' water out of it (set it on all six sides and let it drain). And the other important thingy, blow dry it, lots of moving air! A shop-vac using the exhaust side, worked just fine.
It doesn't hurt is you very lightly re lubricate the variable caps, and also blow out any other variables and the switches. Give the thing a lot of time to dry. It helped that I did this on a hot day one summer.
At today's prices, expect to spend maybe $3.00 for the car wash? Don't use the 'Tire' or 'Engine' cleaning routines, just plain old soap and water.
I really did this with an SB-220, it worked, and also worked after reassembling it. Your milage may vary.
- 'Doc
The caps aren't 'sponges', don't soak up water, but the thingys that hold them all together will retain a lot of water. The meters -will- get water into them! Lubinb the variable caps is a real treat, have fun.
I got to talking to the guy who owns a car wash that I frequent, and he told me to use the tire/engine cleaner on the whole vehicle. He said that it was the same detergent but dispensed at lower pressure and at a higher ratio.
Some of the conditioners and stuff like that are a different color, but the soap and tire cleaner is the same stuff at at least one car wash ...... your mileage may vary
It stinks of cigarettes and must be cleansed, follow Docs' advise and it'll work fine and smell new.
Toll_Free
Well-Known Member
What Doc said.
Or, if you're single, wear the pants, or she's outta town for vacation, the dishwasher works even better.
--Toll_Free
Or, if you're single, wear the pants, or she's outta town for vacation, the dishwasher works even better.
--Toll_Free
actually it doesn't stink at all. but you can see some nicotine around the entire inside. and looking at 1 of the caps, you can see that one of the electrolytics appears be slightly buldging and someonereplaced 3 already. Have all parts but new HV/metering board. everything else i have on the shelf already.
I was just going to suggest that. i know of a lot of guys that have cleaned old boat anchor gear that way. it's always a good idea to remove the transformer as well as you do NOT want water getting into a high voltage transformer.Set it in the sun for a day or two and it should be good.
Deep woods off.
Will cut right through that cigarette stain.
Bounce, the type that is put into the clothes dryer will remove any smell of smoke. Just put it inside the chassis and let it sit for a day or so.
Palmolive dish washing detergent, heck it worked for Marge and it works for electronics to soak in it.
Fresh water rinse and then let it dry for a few days, as all ready stated in previous post.
Will cut right through that cigarette stain.
Bounce, the type that is put into the clothes dryer will remove any smell of smoke. Just put it inside the chassis and let it sit for a day or so.
Palmolive dish washing detergent, heck it worked for Marge and it works for electronics to soak in it.
Fresh water rinse and then let it dry for a few days, as all ready stated in previous post.
I opened it up and replaced a lot of missing screws and such. Most of the panels were just kinda sitting in there. The side fell off when I opened it up. The bottom brackets were only attached on 1 side. The front of the bandswitch has been removed. In its place is a small variable capacitor. Then they mounted another above that so it has a variable PI network. Too bad only 1 side of the input tank coil is soldered. The other you can just slide in and out of capacitor hole. Input blocking cap looks like it got hot. The wax is all bubbled up. I had some towels that are used to clean grease off tools. The have a solution on them already. Wiped up the inside pretty good. Sides and top I put in dishwasher and washed. Then put in oven and dried quick. Don't know if I'll put back exactly to stock, but when I'm done will be a lot closer. I picked it up working as I said for $300 so I can't complain.
The plate tuner looks like it is original. Its a EF Johnson 198-9- 98 if I remember correctly. May buy the heavier one from RF parts. It is wired for 110V at moment so I will leave it like that for moment till everyrthing else is straightened out.
I read an article on time about the effects of cigarette smoke and electronic components.
After reading this, I don't want to buy a piece of gear from a smoker. What it does to your lungs, it does to electronics. Over time, it will destroy electronics. I wonder how much truth there is to that. Now let the battle begin. I got in the first round.
After reading this, I don't want to buy a piece of gear from a smoker. What it does to your lungs, it does to electronics. Over time, it will destroy electronics. I wonder how much truth there is to that. Now let the battle begin. I got in the first round.
I ended up using a non chlorinated, non petroleum based aerosol cleaner that seemed to clean it up pretty good. Order new HV board and relay today from Harbach and ordered a new plate tuner from rf parts.
cleaning amp
I myself use CRC QD ELECTRONIC CLEANER QUICK DRYING FORMUAL.You can get it at any auto parts store for abought $5.00 for a 11 oz can.DONT GO TO RADIO SHACK THEY WANT ABOUT $10.00 FOR A 6 OZ. CAN. Hope that helps ya. coathanger N.E. P.A. 73s
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