Do you think I think I got took....

[The Jerk]

Yeah, this will be only my second amp with a driver stage...the first was a FatBoy 1x2, which was probably the worst combination (short a 2x2). I've been running straight 2-pills and 4-pills lately...so this will be another "learning curve". I intend to under drive this as much as I can. If I wanted splatter, I definitely wouldn't have aligned/tuned radios with limiters intact and I wouldn't have looked at a TS!

For what I intend to use it with, it should be a good combination (Grant XL, RG-8, and a 102 whip). My whole concern is getting the radio set for the amp, and getting it set somewhere I can place a fan under it (might mount it in my storage tray behind the seat). I even have 4ga wire ran to its resting place, and a 1F stiffening capacitor inline that I used for my 4-pill. It will be a while before I get to it...

 

[dxhound]

Sounds like a good plan! Just keep in mind what the four finals are capable of. If you run them to about 500 watts you should have a VERY clean signal and the driver wont hardly break a sweat!

 

[loosecannon]

This modified 667 you had that did 1kw, Were there extra transistors added? Because if not and it still used the 1 2290 driving 4 2879s, There is no way on earth you saw even close to that ampount of power on your fundamental freq. the 2879 was designed to run linear up to 100 watts PEP In most cases that number is underrated and the device will stay stable and linear upto 125 watts. Thats why most people run them around the 500 watt mark. for the most part, anything over this amount, the extra power is no longer being applied to the fundamental freq and is now being applied to the 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th order harmonics. The reason your meter reads the power is because it can not distinguish the diff between 27 and 54 mhz and so on. So it is basically reading the accumulated power between your harmonics. There are meters available that will only sample power on one freq and disregard the harmonics...but expect to pay.

The reason the 667 is such a splatter box is people unkowingly over drive the driver and that drivers output is loaded with harmonics and now the 4 finals have no choice but to amplify what they see. So now you have a dirty in REAL dirty out type situation.

In closing, the TS 667 should have never been built! They should have stuck with the strait 4 TS 500 as it can be driven to full CLEAN potential by 99% of all the radio on the market and of the past.

this is also known as AMPOWER magic!
LC

 

[The Jerk]

One more question, I understand all the buttons except the green one...what does that green "AM" button do???

 

[mackmobile43]

One more question, I understand all the buttons except the green one...what does that green "AM" button do???

LOL. cb

 

[The Jerk]

In its description, it says it varies the power?

 

[mackmobile43]

In its description, it says it varies the power?

Red button is unit power
White button is the receive amp
The orange button is the AM/CB
The yellow button is SSB
The black knob is the variable output power

 

[The Jerk]

I was smoking crack and looking at the picture of another 667V!! The "AM" button is what I'm asking about...AM/"cb", what's the difference??

 

[loosecannon]

the AM and SSB buttons are for different power levels, and to add the delay for SSB talking.

think about it this way, there are four power levels.
both buttons out is highest power.
AM button in is next lowest level.
SSB button in is next lowest level and it adds the SSB delay.
if you push both buttons in, you will be on the lowest power level, and because the SSB button is pushed in, there will be a short delay from when you unkey the mic to when the amp unkeys. (you need this delay when talking on SSB otherwise your amp would be keying and unkeying in between every word you said)

LC

 

[The Jerk]

Great! Thanks, that's what I was looking for!