It's a Shame to have to do all that work on a new radio to get it to work right, guess that's why they have refurbs for 109.99 at Sparkys, I'll stick to my Grant XL and Cobra 148 side mic radios until I find something that is worth a damn on SSB
It's a Shame to have to do all that work on a new radio to get it to work right, guess that's why they have refurbs for 109.99 at Sparkys, I'll stick to my Grant XL and Cobra 148 side mic radios until I find something that is worth a damn on SSB
Well I use SSB 99% of the time when I got my 959 it was so far off frequency that my radio buddies had no idea who was talking, the clairfier was at the 4 oclock position to hear them, I got the alignment specs and got it on center slot to only have it drift either up or down the entire night at which point I got angry and hooked up my old Grant XL to be able to be on the radio. I sent it to a Galaxy facility, paid to have the clairfier unlocked and used it that way for about 2 weeks it was just a pain to keep messing with the clairfier, maybe mine was a lemon or had a bad part in it but to me it was just useless on SSB. I have a new Connex CX566SB which is supposed to be the same chassis and has no where near the drifting issues, once warm about 10 to 15 minutes I never touch the clairfier at all, go figure
Just did an alignment on one of the 959/mosfet version last night. The receive went from being a dog - to excellent. Make sure the SSB/APC voltage is 12.5v on TX; so many of them are set @ 13.5v on TX/VR-17 from the factory.
These mosfet 959's work best when the RF Output control is set @ 12 o'clock on SSB and 10 o'clock on AM. If you don't think so; just see how hot the back of the radio gets - if even turned up to the 3 o'clock position. There is NO HEATSINK on the back of these radios. You have been warned - put one on with epoxy or super glue. That you can do. Changing the APC voltage made it run a bit cooler.
DON'T mess with the radio if you don't know what you are doing - BTW!
If yours is sub par; then find a reputable tech/hobbyist nearby. They respond favorably if properly aligned!
These radios are a real pain to adjust the VCO/oscillator (L20, L21, L22). The tuning coils are UNDERNEATH the freq counter board and it must be unplugged to get to these coils and VR7 (the TX frequency output adjustment). After unplugging this board, putting it back in without bending all of those pins will make you sweat! There is also the danger that you ground one of these many exposed pins to something; so be very careful! Very tight space to work with in there.
Other than that, I like the radio and have aligned a few of them.
Had 409 Queensland, Australia pop up last night @ 11PM/PST, and talked to him briefly. The receive audio on these radios are brilliant if they have been aligned. Pretty nice - really . . .
Another 2 year old worthless thread dug up. I would take an old school Grant xl any day over a Galaxy 959. If I won a free 959 I would sell it on E-Bay as soon as I could. Nuff said.
It is preferred to use heat sink compound between the heat sink and the chassis. But superglue will work just fine. Just make sure that the screws for the finals can still be removed when installed, it should be OK. Superglue will keep the surface of the heat sink solid against the chassis for heat transfer. But I would prefer to use the thermal paste.