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Not another derelict Pride DX300. Turning into a bad habit.

nomadradio

Analog Retentive
Apr 3, 2005
7,536
12,397
698
Louisville, KY
www.nomadradio.com
This is becoming a bad habit. Bought another derelict Pride DX300. The older they get, the more derelicts emerge. This one's not so over-the-top as Lazarus. But I paid actual money for it, and I'll need to get the money back out. Puts Lazarus in the back seat for now.

i6XzpW.jpg


The face of the thing looks okay. Some sketchy stuff is visible in the first pic, but all of it can be corrected.

I did stumble across one detail that seemed worth passing along. An exploded ceramic disc capacitor that serves to filter RF energy from escaping out through the power cord.

SjYUmE.jpg


I call these the "accidental surge protectors". A pulse of lightning energy from the wall socket went to ground through the broken capacitor. Wasn't kind to it. Any time you see this, DO NOT PLUG IT IN until this cap is either removed. Or better, replaced. But it does break down at a voltage low enough the transformers suffered no damage I can identify. Kinda like a real surge suppressor.

People know by now to unplug their coax before a lightning storm, but statistically speaking your antenna is a tiny target if you compare it to the local electric utility's network of wires and poles.

Statistical reality suggest that a nearby utility wire will be struck much more frequently than your one little antenna structure. And when this happens, that lightning energy propagates down the line to your house, if it's within a block or less. A pulse of lightning energy is looking for exactly one thing, the best path to ground it can find. In this example, the disc cap provided that path. The one in the pic is a generic ceramic disc cap. That's pretty well all there was to choose from in 1978. These days, capacitors meant for this kind of use will have safety-agency approval markings on them.

IyZ7cB.jpg


Yeah, things were simpler four-plus decades ago.

And a little more dangerous.

73
 

The sharp-eyed reader will have noticed the somewhat clumsy substitute Load control in the pics above. Not so obvious is the acid-core solder that was used to connect it.

h27THn.jpg


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For those who haven't run into it, the most common type of solder stocked in the neighborhood hardware store back in the day was intended for mechanical repairs, like to copper pipes, or a leaky brass radiator in your Chevy. The so-called "acid core" flux contains zinc chloride, which penetrates surface oxides on the workpiece aggressively. Just one problem. If you leave it on the repair it becomes corrosive to the solder and the workpiece both. The "rosin core" solder used for electronics won't do this.

I won't be using this Load control anyway. The replacement from RF Parts has the same hole pattern as the front panel. But they're not tapped for a machine screw.

YzlKlD.jpg


Now they are.

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The capacitor's plates are really close to the inside surface of the frame where the holes are being tapped. Best way around this is what's called a "plug tap". It will cut the most thread before protruding far enough to touch a capacitor plate, and risk damaging it.

teSgNd.jpg


The shortest #6-32 screw in my stock is a quarter inch. It's too long for this application. Don't want it rubbing against the rotor plate.

The old crimping tool with bolt-cutter holes comes to the rescue. Took off about three threads.

SkfbMd.jpg


Got lucky, guessed the needed length about right.

EiOX7Z.jpg


If it's too long, the first thing it rubs against is the brown bracket that holds the plates in place. Now for the fun part. They drilled out the top screw hole to use for the shaft of the substituted control.

LFoAes.jpg


Gonna need a washer.

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Tomorrow.

Glutton for punishment, indeed. I'll cry all the way to the bank when it sells.

73
 
Hello looking. For a pride dx 300 relay
 

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That type relay has been made by more than a dozen companies over the years. Each supplier uses a different type number for the same thing.

The two specs that are most important are: 1)The coil voltage needed to make it activate. In your case 12 Volts DC. And 2) the current rating of the contact points. In this case 5 Amps.

RF Parts www.rfparts.com has this one: https://www.rfparts.com/relays/relays-r10potter/r10e1x4v185.html

And this one: https://www.rfparts.com/relays/relays-r10potter/az421-v12203.html

73
 

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