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Shure Mic hookup

I do get a small "pop" from using a relay and foot pedal but the radio relies on the normally closed contacts of the relay for the receive audio (cobra 2000)
I too run some audio gear, mixer condenser mics etc. and once you get it all working right it will defiantly sound way better than just a lollipop mic.
 
BTW - If you do get an ART tube preamp (or any of those cheap tube preamp brands for that matter), you can put a better quality tube in there than what they come with. You can bet that they use a pretty cheap tube! It isn't a TRUE tube preamp that uses 250v to drive the tube in these preamps. It uses the tube for EMULATING the tube warmth (30v or 40v's only - at best). It's not REAL tube drive. But they do work quite nicely for the price...

Since you are guitar player (as I am as well), you might have some used tubes that are a better quality than the cheap SOVTEK or Chinese tubes that the preamp comes with. A used 7025 or 5751 GrooveTube can be used to replace the cheap stock 12AX7 tube for better emulation. Or even a Mullard or other brand; so long as it isn't getting microphonic or shorted. The 5751 has less output as does the 7025; but it will sound cleaner and less distorted. Best for a mic...
 
I'm in the process of acquiring all the stuff I'll need for this project. I have a handful of Mullard tubes so the stock ART tube will be replaced. It looks like this is going to be real fun project. I have a whole pedal board of effects to play with. My Eventide Modfactor will see a new life on the airways.:laugh:
 
I think that a preamp, EQ (parametric or graphic), compressor, expander, limiter, gate, and MAYBE only a smidge of plate reverb - will provide optimum results. The Behringer DEQ-2496 does most of these processing functions if you set the device for split channel operation. They sell for ~$350 new; I got one at a consignment shop used for $150.

A fine pedal from Eventide to use on this setup. But it isn't a balanced in/balanced out - is it? Might be a problem. If I were to use a reverb; I would get an Alesis Miniverb or a Lexicon 200 - perhaps. The reason I don't use a reverb unit, is that I would need a small mixer to make it work. I would need a send/return bus so in the mixer itself so that I could balance the dry/wet amount of reverb from that device.

Without using a 'verb; I can just link the mic to the preamp - the preamp out to the left input side of the DEQ - the left output side of the DEQ into the right input side of the DEQ - the output of the right side of the DEQ to the input of the BBE maximizer - and the BBE maximizer out to the radio mic input.
Remember - that the DEQ is running in the 'split channel function' - so it acts as two separate processors.

You might want to just use the mic and the preamp into the radio first - and get it right before trying to use the effects. If you are going to use your pedal board with a balanced mic; then you will need to get the wiring right from the mic preamp to the next piece of gear. Remember that a lot of pedals aren't known for being noise-free! You might introduce a LOT of noise to the broadcast sound. That is why a balanced in/out chain is best; but not necessary so long as too many devices in line aren't involved.

At this point - if any hum occurs in the sound - then lifting/adding a ground wire before it enters the radio may be necessary. The balanced XLR coming from the ART preamp will need to have the "-" and ground wire tied together. If hum is happening here; then disconnect the "-" from the ground wire and use the "-" to make the mic work WITHOUT getting hum. Trial and error - if necessary...

Since you are using the SM-58; you will need some patience to get the equalization dialed in. Be careful of too much midrange; less is more. That is - there is already a lot of midrage 'peaks' in the SM-58; so it can overwhelm the rest of the frequencies you are working with. High freqs might need some tasteful work. Bass should be smooth and not frumpy.

The only real way to know what you sound like is to have a friend that you talk to on the radio to help guide the process of final tone adjustments. It would help immensely if he is using a full-range two or three way speaker on his end. It wouldn't hurt for you to do the same thing; as this can help one's receive substantially as well. Just plug it into the external speaker jack on the back of the radio. It is worth the trouble; not much trouble at all. Some will go as far as using a line transformer from the external speaker output of the radio - to an amp that has a graphic 10 band EQ and then to a 3 way speaker. Yes; you can do this too...

Making a wind screen from some panty hose and a hoop will tame sibilance, wind blast, and give you an overall better sound. It is NOT the same as a foam windscreen; the SM-58 already has a piece of foam inside it. The commercial-made 'pop' screen/unit will cost about ~$20 from Guitar Center, if you don't want to brew your own. It is a low-tech device that can equalize sound pressure that yields high-tech results...

Another major improvement -IMO- can be done by using a large capsule single cardioid condenser microphone - like the MXL brand. They are inexpensive vs performance, sensitive, ultra-flat response is easier to equalize, and your ART mic preamp already has phantom power to operate it built right in. I got my MXL V88 at a consignment shop for ~$80/used including the suspension.

Just imagine what else you can do!

Pictured:
MXL V88 w/suspension
Behringer DEQ 2496
Commercial made 'Pop' screen
 

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Some more info that you might find important...

Radios cannot transmit a full 20-20,000hz frequency response. The BEST you might get out of your radio is 80-4,000hz; typically 120-3300hz. This is due to the IF filters in radios. SSB is the narrowest; AM is the widest - even as wide as 8khz in some radios. Don't fret; as the human ear gets 95% of its info from the 80-4000hz range. But it is VERY important that you use this range to the hilt. Midrange response can be your enemy here; or it can be your friend. Remember to keep the microphone's midrange response carefully tailored to stay as FLAT as you can. Add enough bass and high end to make it as articulate as one can. This pays benefits locally and when transmitting/DX'ing as well.

If you don't understand or believe that midrange response can be a killer of decent audio; then hook up a 3 way speaker, amp w/EQ, and a line transformer to the output of your radio and just listen. Many radios out there have an overabundance of midrange; that is what you will find. Then, play with the midrange controls and see it make a LOT of difference when you either cut or add in that range; usually cutting brings it back into focus. Low midrage starts at/about 300hz and extends to 1000-1200hz.
 
It's been a while but life got in the way of this project.
I finally have all the components for this project. My dilemma is not knowing how to wire this up. Here's a rundown on what I'm trying to do.
I have the Shure SM58 mic into the ART Preamp, out of the preamp to a small box with (2) 1/4" stereo jacks and one curly cord out of the box to my 5 pin connector into the Cobra 142 GTL. I'm trying to use a Boss FS-6 footswitch but I'm stumped how to wire this mess up. The FS-6 footswitch will give me a momentary and constant switch in one pedal. Does anyone have instructions how to wire this? The box will be more or less a y-adapter for the footswitch and the preamp output.

Thanks,

Malcontent
 
BTW - If you do get an ART tube preamp (or any of those cheap tube preamp brands for that matter), you can put a better quality tube in there than what they come with. You can bet that they use a pretty cheap tube! It isn't a TRUE tube preamp that uses 250v to drive the tube in these preamps. It uses the tube for EMULATING the tube warmth (30v or 40v's only - at best). It's not REAL tube drive. But they do work quite nicely for the price...

Since you are guitar player (as I am as well), you might have some used tubes that are a better quality than the cheap SOVTEK or Chinese tubes that the preamp comes with. A used 7025 or 5751 GrooveTube can be used to replace the cheap stock 12AX7 tube for better emulation. Or even a Mullard or other brand; so long as it isn't getting microphonic or shorted. The 5751 has less output as does the 7025; but it will sound cleaner and less distorted. Best for a mic...

I was reading this old thread an wanted to try a 7025 in my ART TUBE preamp
as per Robb.......
It sure as hell sounds more smoother and less noise.......(y)

Thanks Robb
 
I have located a Shure SM57 at a pawn shop! I'm also interested in trying to clean up my audio.
Would this be a good mic to start with?
 
ART makes a tube preamp that sell for $30 @ 'Guitar Center'. It will work nice; but you will need to use the unbalanced output (1/4 inch Tip/Ring/Sleeve plug; not the XLR/balanced output) to go to the radio. The mic to the preamp uses a XLR cable; a 6 ft cable will work best. You will have to figure out the pinout on the radio to get it right. The 'audio' wire into the radio is the "+" from the mic preamp output; and the PTT on the radio is where to wire the footswitch to. You might have to build/buy a footswitch.

Foot switch? That's how those radio talk shows do it? I was thinking just wire the on/off switch on the microphone to the PTT, though you could always put a small push switch, like that of a desktop microphone mounted on the desk, near the keyboard of a computer or something....
 
Foot switch? That's how those radio talk shows do it? I was thinking just wire the on/off switch on the microphone to the PTT, though you could always put a small push switch, like that of a desktop microphone mounted on the desk, near the keyboard of a computer or something....

You can do it whatever way suits your needs. I find a foot switch a really handy item to use. If you have a carpet on the floor in the shack; then add a piece of velcro to the bottom of the foot switch and it won't move at all. That is what I use.

If you want to hook up a hand switch or put the switch on the mic stand; then go for it.
 

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