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Uniden Grant XL

Just off the top of my head, I think the R174 thing might be related to an open clarifier. I think R44 is part of the mod along with a diode.

Does the green wire I see on the solder side go to the clarifier? Should have 8V.


From what I can tell the green wire is for the clarifier...

I haven't even put power to this thing yet...haven't had time.
 
And don't get me wrong, I wouldn't know what to really look for to see what has been mod'd...other than booger solder joints and clipped wires!

I basically want this radio to be stock, with a clear audio and sensitive receive...I've heard good things about the Grant as far as the audio being awesome, one of the main reasons I had to buy one (plus its a SSB radio)

I got a TS 350HDV to run behind it for SSB use, so I don't need it to have every last watt wrung out of it.
 
The dual clairifier is a very nice touch (y) from the pic's it looks like it's opened for RX/TX . Do you know what the power ratings are on AM and SSB ? Have you hooked her up yet ? Does it seem at least ballpark alighned to you ? closest to center slot will do on the duals (it doesn't have to be perfect , just needs to lock down and stay on freq which those radio do a fine job at) they do like a slight warming concerning SSB all the same. (most do)

I see now where it says you haven't even hooked her up yet. Depending on how the TX/RX was opened up , that baby could have a 20 Khz slider on it , although touchy , it will get the job done nicely. If the radio has a (call it what you want) NPC mod , it would DK 1 to 2 watts and swing 18 to 20 on AM which would be pretty good for your TS350.

The radio could swing it's full power on SSB and the TS350 would handle it just fine. If you can find out what your AM side is doing and as long as your as low as 2 watts on DK , you should be fine. Otherwise , you can just send it off to your favorite tech and have him go through it for you.

Always nice if given tech could have both radio and amplifier when he does his alighning , but I think most would know how to set up ballpark for a TS350. Like Mole said , these are also my all time favorite cb chassies , always known for there great receive sections in them.

I will also agree that not alot needs to be done to these radio to perform well right out of there boxes new. There's really no need to bore these radios out , but guys tend to like what they like no matter what somebody else thinks. It looks like you have a good one Steve , but I also think it might be to your best interest to hook the baby up and give her a work out , the mods on the radio from what I can see are not a hack and whack job , they have been around for a long time.

As always , the best of luck to you and I hope you find some enjoyment out of your new (to you) Grant XL . Peace
 
No, haven't had it hooked up yet...I'm taking it, and the amp, to DTB (speaking of that, I got to call him and make sure he'll be there). Let him see what's been done and what needs done...

He did my DX959 up really nice, hoping he can make this Grant sound the same.
 
Whoops! This radio didn't come with a mic, and I noticed it has a five-pin connection...not a standard cobra/uniden 4-pin.

Can a 4-pin (like a Astatic 636L or RK56) be rewired for the five pin???
 
Yes, thats rather easy. The Grant xl comes with a 5 pin factory. It's fun to check things out but if your going to send it to DTB why not just do it and get it over with. DTB can tell in less then a couple minutes whats up, check all functions, talkback?, echo?, clarifier open?, channels?, nasty signal on the scope says if it's clipped or not. DTB is a sharp dude, he will get it right.
 
Sounds like this clarifier was very fast and touchy. That pot was needed to get accurate control of it.
I like to take them out to 6KHz each directional 1/3,,,1/3 is dead at the bottom of the stock pots due to the stops. Not exactly but close enough for this reply.
Allot of techs run them way over this amount (6Kc-1/3 turn) to avoid putting in a 10KC shift off the PLL binary "1" pin onto a spdt switch so you can drop or raise onto the "A" slots. Every other "A" slot is 10KC up off the channel below, and the others 10KC down off the channel above. The reason is because the "A" freqs are 50KC apart and the binary pin 1 needs to be switched high or low depending. For instance: IF you are on say 3 and the 1 pin is low then you can fire the 1 pin up and add 10KC. IF however that pin is high already hot then you have to go to channel 4 and turn the 1 pin off. 3-4 is a 20 KC hop because of the "A" channel so the 1 pin stays either high or low instead of going on/off with each channel click of the selector when crossing over the "A" slots.
Each 1/100th of a volt = 10KC to the VCO so each binary addition of 1 provides 1/100V increase to the vco.
Clarifiers on the other hand load or unload capacitance to mixing crystal to allow it to move faster or slower thereby changing the freq and allowing that "slide" off center frequency.
 
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Very good post.

I preferred the clarifier to move 23 kc, helps alot with sideband and hitting 0's
 
nasty signal on the scope says if it's clipped or not

Only if the audio gain is pushed past saturation.

A clipped radio can be used and not be nasty.

Sometimes, if the mod VR is jacked to full, it will sound no different that a clipped radio.
 
It's fun to check things out but if your going to send it to DTB why not just do it and get it over with.

So I know what I might be getting into with the bill...

I got shipped to Washington, so I doubt I will be able to get the radio to him in the next three weeks...but I will get it there at some point...
 

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