So, you were given an old 23 or 40 channel radio by a relative and used it a few times - and then put it away because of dissatisfaction of performance. Or perhaps, for no apparent reason, it just stopped working? Or you can't understand why you could never get a response from some of the guys on ch 6 with all the noise and clutter was happening on the radio. Or maybe you heard weird, mumbled sounds on ch 38 and thought something was wrong with your radio.
Or - just maybe you are new to transmitting on a radio and have a whole lot of questions - and were afraid or ashamed to ask...
This article is meant for you. You have the chance to ask whatever you want - and no one will think less of you. There will be more parts to this thread, and will attempt to inform and teach as we go. So, stay tuned and bookmark this page. If you aren't a member of the WWRF and are reading this, it only takes a moment to register and it's free! At some point, everyone is green at understanding radios and how to use them better. There will be input from forum members - so give them your best shot and let it go. Some very savvy radio veterans that can field just about any question can be found on this site. I will start by stating some basic principles about buying and using radios - and how to apply them. But first, you may need a radio to start out this new hobby.
This is part 1: how to buy a used CB radio...
Let's first understand a radio as the center of a series of parts to transmit and receive communications. Every system must have an antenna with coaxial cable, a radio, a power source, and a microphone. Another piece of equipment is also essential: the SWR meter. We will get back to that one in a bit. I'm going to assume that you have nothing to begin with; so let's start this series with the antenna. First things - first...
If you are to choose either a base station or a mobile radio, the quality of your antenna should really be your primary consideration. Any radio setup is only as good as the antenna's ability to receive and transmit. It is BEST - in either the short or long run - to budget and spend one's money for a decent antenna. Some of the best antenna systems can cost a small fortune; but we will budget ourselves 'around' $150' for a base antenna and 50-$120 for a mobile antenna. You can still do quite well spending these amounts. Buy used when you can; just so long as it is a decent piece of equipment in fair shape.
Here is a fine read on antenna basics:
http://www.signalengineering.com/ultimate/verticals.html
A Maco 5/8, an IMAX 2000 5/8 wave, or a Solarcon A99 1/2 wave can all be had for $100-125 for a base antenna. I've had all three at one point; but I currently have the IMAX and paid $115 including the shipping. You will need a safe place to mount it - away from power lines - in case it were to fall over from high winds. You will need a mast to support it and have it a minimum of 30 ft off of the ground for best results. That can cost about $60 - or less - if one uses and collects enough old TV antenna masts. Or using steel pipe 1 1/2in diameter can also be used. Guy wiring is necessary to keep any masting you choose properly supported. You may want to Google 'Guy Wires'; that is your 'homework' (http://www.starkelectronic.com/cmig9.htm). You also need a length of coaxial cable to make the distance from your radio to the feed point of the antenna; about 50 feet is necessary if the antenna is put up 30 ft. The cost is $35 for a standard piece of 'coax'; and $50 for the high-end stuff. But the $35 will work quite well. Buying the coax new is money well spent. An old piece is a waste of time and can be a source of trouble.
If you want to spend more money for an antenna, a beam antenna will yield far greater rewards for receiving and transmitting from your new station. Here's a fine example of a quad beam antenna:
http://www.palcoelectronics.com/p1000433.aspx
Beam antennas will focus the transmit power of one's radio and make better use of a low-output power radio. They require an electrically-controlled rotor to turn the beam in any given direction. Remember; that the better antenna choice yields better and more satisfying results when transmitting and receiving! A typical single-beam with rotor setup may cost up to $400 new and if one is lucky one may find a used setup for a ~$100. They also will benefit from being mounted 30 ft above the ground or higher. 35 ft is an ideal height for any base antenna; just be sure that it is mounted properly and supported with enough guy wires.
The mobile antenna of choice would be a 102" stainless-steel whip with a solid mount (about $50); but it requires a permanent mount (drilling of the sheet metal may become necessary). Also, a Wilson 1000 magnetic mount (about $65) is a fine choice and allows quick removal if necessary - no alterations or drilling required to your vehicle. A Predator 10k with mount (about $110) is also an option, but may also require a permanent mount like the steel whip does. Any one of these choices will make a dramatic effect in both transmitting and receiving and should be considered the best choices. Remember: the antenna MUST come first! The cost of coax is less for a mobile installation; as they use a shorter piece - usually 18 ft or less - about 10-$15. The Wilson 1000 will come supplied with its own coax. I have a Wilson 1000 myself, and I can assure you that it is both an economical and excellent choice that will give you years of service and satisfaction.
The SWR meter is an essential part of any station - as said earlier. It can be a inexpensive stand-alone unit or a part of other meters arranged in a single 'meter bridge'. But a lowly stand-alone Radio Shack SWR meter can be had for as little as $10 at a garage sale; or $25 new. They do a specific job - and without it - one can damage a new radio of one doesn't learn how to use and interpret it. What it does, is to insure that the antenna is in tune with the frequency that it is transmitting and receiving on. This keeps the radio from laboring under an unequal 'load' that can potentially ruin the radio if is out of sync. If the antenna is tuned properly by using the SWR meter as prescribed; then maximum gain and efficiency of the antenna can be fully utilized by the radio.
First, one needs a three or six foot length of coax (called a 'jumper') with the necessary connectors on it. Connect the 'jumper' by screwing the 'pl-239' (a military-designated number for a radio frequency compliant connector) on to the back of the radio - and the other to the 'radio' or 'input' side of the SWR meter (it will use either term on the SWR meter). Next, connect the coax that leads to your antenna to the 'antenna' or 'output' side of the SWR meter.
*Then, turn the radio on and go to ch 20 - and turn down the mic gain control on the radio all the way.
*Next, flip the forward ('fwd')/calibration ('cal') switch - twards the 'calibration' position. There should be a knob on the SWR meter to 'cal'.
*'Key' the mic (that is the 'push-to-talk' button on the microphone) - and then turn the knob until it lines up with a spot on the meter - that says 'cal' (don't talk; as this may cause meter to move around).
*Then, 'un-key' the mic and then flip the switch on the SWR meter to 'SWR'.
*Read the number that the meter points to - this the result 'SWR; Standing Wave Ratio'. If it reads 1.5 or less; no antenna adjustment is necessary. If it reads more than 1.5 or above - the antenna length will need to be adjusted.
*Then check the SWR on ch 1 and then ch 40. One must remember to re-adjust the 'cal' each time you test and change the antenna length on each channel you test.
For further info, check out this page:
SWR
Any question about adjusting your particular antenna will be answered after this post. Or any other questions you might have - feel free to ask them now!
Questions?
Part 2: Choosing the Radio
Tomorrow...
http://www.worldwidedx.com/general-...tizens-band-radio-radio-how-buy-part-2-a.html
Or - just maybe you are new to transmitting on a radio and have a whole lot of questions - and were afraid or ashamed to ask...
This article is meant for you. You have the chance to ask whatever you want - and no one will think less of you. There will be more parts to this thread, and will attempt to inform and teach as we go. So, stay tuned and bookmark this page. If you aren't a member of the WWRF and are reading this, it only takes a moment to register and it's free! At some point, everyone is green at understanding radios and how to use them better. There will be input from forum members - so give them your best shot and let it go. Some very savvy radio veterans that can field just about any question can be found on this site. I will start by stating some basic principles about buying and using radios - and how to apply them. But first, you may need a radio to start out this new hobby.
This is part 1: how to buy a used CB radio...
Let's first understand a radio as the center of a series of parts to transmit and receive communications. Every system must have an antenna with coaxial cable, a radio, a power source, and a microphone. Another piece of equipment is also essential: the SWR meter. We will get back to that one in a bit. I'm going to assume that you have nothing to begin with; so let's start this series with the antenna. First things - first...
If you are to choose either a base station or a mobile radio, the quality of your antenna should really be your primary consideration. Any radio setup is only as good as the antenna's ability to receive and transmit. It is BEST - in either the short or long run - to budget and spend one's money for a decent antenna. Some of the best antenna systems can cost a small fortune; but we will budget ourselves 'around' $150' for a base antenna and 50-$120 for a mobile antenna. You can still do quite well spending these amounts. Buy used when you can; just so long as it is a decent piece of equipment in fair shape.
Here is a fine read on antenna basics:
http://www.signalengineering.com/ultimate/verticals.html
A Maco 5/8, an IMAX 2000 5/8 wave, or a Solarcon A99 1/2 wave can all be had for $100-125 for a base antenna. I've had all three at one point; but I currently have the IMAX and paid $115 including the shipping. You will need a safe place to mount it - away from power lines - in case it were to fall over from high winds. You will need a mast to support it and have it a minimum of 30 ft off of the ground for best results. That can cost about $60 - or less - if one uses and collects enough old TV antenna masts. Or using steel pipe 1 1/2in diameter can also be used. Guy wiring is necessary to keep any masting you choose properly supported. You may want to Google 'Guy Wires'; that is your 'homework' (http://www.starkelectronic.com/cmig9.htm). You also need a length of coaxial cable to make the distance from your radio to the feed point of the antenna; about 50 feet is necessary if the antenna is put up 30 ft. The cost is $35 for a standard piece of 'coax'; and $50 for the high-end stuff. But the $35 will work quite well. Buying the coax new is money well spent. An old piece is a waste of time and can be a source of trouble.
If you want to spend more money for an antenna, a beam antenna will yield far greater rewards for receiving and transmitting from your new station. Here's a fine example of a quad beam antenna:
http://www.palcoelectronics.com/p1000433.aspx
Beam antennas will focus the transmit power of one's radio and make better use of a low-output power radio. They require an electrically-controlled rotor to turn the beam in any given direction. Remember; that the better antenna choice yields better and more satisfying results when transmitting and receiving! A typical single-beam with rotor setup may cost up to $400 new and if one is lucky one may find a used setup for a ~$100. They also will benefit from being mounted 30 ft above the ground or higher. 35 ft is an ideal height for any base antenna; just be sure that it is mounted properly and supported with enough guy wires.
The mobile antenna of choice would be a 102" stainless-steel whip with a solid mount (about $50); but it requires a permanent mount (drilling of the sheet metal may become necessary). Also, a Wilson 1000 magnetic mount (about $65) is a fine choice and allows quick removal if necessary - no alterations or drilling required to your vehicle. A Predator 10k with mount (about $110) is also an option, but may also require a permanent mount like the steel whip does. Any one of these choices will make a dramatic effect in both transmitting and receiving and should be considered the best choices. Remember: the antenna MUST come first! The cost of coax is less for a mobile installation; as they use a shorter piece - usually 18 ft or less - about 10-$15. The Wilson 1000 will come supplied with its own coax. I have a Wilson 1000 myself, and I can assure you that it is both an economical and excellent choice that will give you years of service and satisfaction.
The SWR meter is an essential part of any station - as said earlier. It can be a inexpensive stand-alone unit or a part of other meters arranged in a single 'meter bridge'. But a lowly stand-alone Radio Shack SWR meter can be had for as little as $10 at a garage sale; or $25 new. They do a specific job - and without it - one can damage a new radio of one doesn't learn how to use and interpret it. What it does, is to insure that the antenna is in tune with the frequency that it is transmitting and receiving on. This keeps the radio from laboring under an unequal 'load' that can potentially ruin the radio if is out of sync. If the antenna is tuned properly by using the SWR meter as prescribed; then maximum gain and efficiency of the antenna can be fully utilized by the radio.
First, one needs a three or six foot length of coax (called a 'jumper') with the necessary connectors on it. Connect the 'jumper' by screwing the 'pl-239' (a military-designated number for a radio frequency compliant connector) on to the back of the radio - and the other to the 'radio' or 'input' side of the SWR meter (it will use either term on the SWR meter). Next, connect the coax that leads to your antenna to the 'antenna' or 'output' side of the SWR meter.
*Then, turn the radio on and go to ch 20 - and turn down the mic gain control on the radio all the way.
*Next, flip the forward ('fwd')/calibration ('cal') switch - twards the 'calibration' position. There should be a knob on the SWR meter to 'cal'.
*'Key' the mic (that is the 'push-to-talk' button on the microphone) - and then turn the knob until it lines up with a spot on the meter - that says 'cal' (don't talk; as this may cause meter to move around).
*Then, 'un-key' the mic and then flip the switch on the SWR meter to 'SWR'.
*Read the number that the meter points to - this the result 'SWR; Standing Wave Ratio'. If it reads 1.5 or less; no antenna adjustment is necessary. If it reads more than 1.5 or above - the antenna length will need to be adjusted.
*Then check the SWR on ch 1 and then ch 40. One must remember to re-adjust the 'cal' each time you test and change the antenna length on each channel you test.
For further info, check out this page:
SWR
Any question about adjusting your particular antenna will be answered after this post. Or any other questions you might have - feel free to ask them now!
Questions?
Part 2: Choosing the Radio
Tomorrow...
http://www.worldwidedx.com/general-...tizens-band-radio-radio-how-buy-part-2-a.html
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