Okay, so a quick recap of what I remember from this thread is that the keying circuit worked until the keying transistors got replaced, along with the electrolytic caps on the power-supply circuit board.
I remember suggesting that you put all the original keying circuit parts back exactly where they were when they worked.
But if you didn't make a detailed diagram of which transistor lead went into which hole, that probably isn't practical.
There are several wrong ways to insert a 3-legged transistor into a circuit board, and only one correct way.
But I may be skipping the important part.
Do you have 12 Volts DC on the main relay's coil terminals when you select "operate" on the standby switch?
If you don't have power to the relay, the keying circuit can't do anything whether it's wired correctly or not.
Let's assume for the moment that you do have power to the relay, and the keying circuit just won't.
Here's a shot of the assembly procedure for the circuit we use. Got tired of hand-building them like this, so we build it on a tiny circuit board now.
Here's a crude schematic of it. The CAD I used did not have a symbol for a darlington transistor, so I made one.
Sorta.
The metal tab of the TIP125, 126 or 127 transistor is simply bolted to ground. A wire goes from the emitter lead to the 'cold' side of the relay coil, opposite the side of the relay coil that goes to the standby switch. The emitter is the one with the hook on the end in the final assembly step seen above.
Never could figure out how to make a buck selling this thing for less than 30 bucks. Considering the low cost of the parts, should be no big deal to build.
Just make sure that you DO have power to the relay coil. Could be that you broke a foil on the power-supply board when replacing filter caps.
73