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Working on a Yeasu FT-101EE Converted to 11Meters

danmcclain

Well-Known Member
Dec 11, 2020
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This radio got shook up in shipping. None of the 3 tubes light up and the panel lights are out. Going to replace the driver tube first. Having a hard time locating the 2 panel lights. These bulbs say "Stanley 16VO15A" on them. These are bayonet type bulbs... Not having any luck finding them... Help please... Dan
 

I would replace them with a 12v warm white bayonet bulb. They’re commonly used as an automotive replacement. In doing so I would also remove the 100 ohm resistor as shown in the schematic and experiment with a much higher resistor to achieve your desired brightness. To be on the safe side I typically start out with 15K ohms and work my way down. There’s a third bulb with wire leads. It’s not a light, but used as an RF fuse. Hopefully it’s not blown. It's a pain to replace.
replacement bulbs.jpg
 
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I would replace them with a 12v warm white bayonet bulb. They’re commonly used as an automotive replacement. In doing so I would also remove the 100 ohm resistor as shown in the schematic and experiment with a much higher resistor to achieve your desired brightness. To be on the safe side I typically start out with 15K ohms and work my way down. There’s a third bulb with wire leads. It’s not a light, but used as an RF fuse. Hopefully it’s not blown. It's a pain to replace.
View attachment 67676
Thank you for the info.... Dan
 
Is the 11-pin round plug firmly seated in the "accessory" ( or is it "ACC"?) socket on the rear?

There is a wire jumper in the plug between pin 1 and pin 2 that feeds 12 Volts to the tube heaters. Pull that plug, the lights stay off.

We routinely soldered a wire across those two pins inside the radio on that socket just to avoid aggravating complaints later on. It's there so your 6-meter or 2-meter transverter can switch off the power tubes, and use the low-level drive that feeds into the 12BY7 for the transmit converter.

And if someone wanted to use a FT101 with a VHF transverter today, I'd be surprised. The jumper wire would seem to pose only a tiny risk.

Maybe it's that simple. Maybe the "Heater" switch on the front has oxidized contacts and won't complete the circuit.

73
 
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Is the 11-pin round plug firmly seated in the "accessory" ( or is it "ACC"?) socket on the rear?

There is a wire jumper in the plug between pin 1 and pin 2 that feeds 12 Volts to the tube heaters. Pull that plug, the lights stay off.

We routinely soldered a wire across those two pins inside the radio on that socket just to avoid aggravating complaints later on. It's there so your 6-meter or 2-meter transverter can switch off the power tubes, and use the low-level drive that feeds into the 12BY7 for the transmit converter.

And if someone wanted to use a FT101 with a VHF transverter today, I'd be surprised. The jumper wire would seem to pose only a tiny risk.

Maybe it's that simple. Maybe the "Heater" switch on the front has oxidized contacts and won't complete the circuit.

73
Thank you for the info...I will check that... Dan
 
Is the 11-pin round plug firmly seated in the "accessory" ( or is it "ACC"?) socket on the rear?

There is a wire jumper in the plug between pin 1 and pin 2 that feeds 12 Volts to the tube heaters. Pull that plug, the lights stay off.

We routinely soldered a wire across those two pins inside the radio on that socket just to avoid aggravating complaints later on. It's there so your 6-meter or 2-meter transverter can switch off the power tubes, and use the low-level drive that feeds into the 12BY7 for the transmit converter.

And if someone wanted to use a FT101 with a VHF transverter today, I'd be surprised. The jumper wire would seem to pose only a tiny risk.

Maybe it's that simple. Maybe the "Heater" switch on the front has oxidized contacts and won't complete the circuit.

73
Also found the 3rd lamp (RF Fuse) and it tested ok... Dan
 

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