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SAM's # 207 will have the schematic as well, with a few minor differences.

They are not horribly difficult, but their quality is not that good in my opinion. I've been seeing several now that have been in for a while, and are starting to fail. Resistors are burning out and/or breaking loose for long-term heating/cooling cycles. Its also relatively easy to inadvertantly...

Preacherman has the right idea. My preference would be the Stryker, though, I've found it to be the punchiets radio over-all of those choices. That and you don't have to run it to the battery to see good power out of it.

The 29 Chrome is still available from one distributor that I know of, and yes, it is a good radio. I like the new board lay-out. They seem to be able to peek out a bit higher than the older design, too.

I did the exact same thing when I was about 15 or 16. Problem was, back then, I didn't know squat about RF behavior and SWR and the problems it could cause, and I DID key up. I toasted a nice old 23-ch Pace in the process.

The only issues I've seemed to see are with the Francis (they stopped using that resin or whatever is was to hold the fiberglass into the base), and with the Wilson Silver Loads. The SL's seem to be manufactured with just a bit too much wire lately. They don't seem to to tune down nearly as well...

Thats what I use now, and other than some noise from an unknown semi-local source, it works very well.

Here, too, for now, lol!

I have them in stock. You can order through my online store, linked through my signature. They are not discontinued as far as I know, just not being brought into the country again until this coming Spring. As dealers run out, prices will go up. Gotta love the free enterprise system!

If you go the route mentioned in that article, I don't recommend zip-tying to a line from the gas tank. Vibration could cause a wear-through point and leak explosive fumes

The 29 XLR uses the Expo "I" kit. I do not know of anyone off-hand who would even sell that kit. There are hardly any radios left alive that would use it. I would recommend just doing the PLL mod for that radio, since the kit (if I remember correctly) does the same thing.

Yes, but word around my suppliers is that once the ones in-country now are gone, there will be no more until Spring, at which time the price is going up.

Exactly. Most of my customers want to know the max the radio CAN do in optimum conditions.

Ok, thats the first I'd heard that. I LOVE the Stryker!!! Its the only radio I will run right now. I use it as a base in the shop and at teh ouse, and I use a 490 as my mobile.

Those levels are seen with 1969 and MOSFET finals. The MOSFET's seem to generally do better.

Are you sure it was Northstar? They've been out of production for a long time. The Northpoints are still around as far as I know. As for quality, The Northpoint seemed to be ok, but I'd take a Stryker over an NP myself.

Get it while you can, the ones in-country now are the last ones until sometime in the Spring.

I think over-all, I'd pick the 95T2. 2nd choice would be the 98.

If you're limiting yourself to Connex and don't have more than $400 to spend, go for the 4600. Personally, I'd go with the Stryker 490. It costs alot less, will give you 130-150 watts, and you wont have to run crazy power cable for it. In my opinion, the transmit audio is also better in both...

I regularly see 40+ out of radios like the 29 and 25, and 35-40 out of the Uniden equivalents. I measure power levels 3 different ways: Bird 4314B meter for carrier measurements, Wavenode system and an o-scope to confirm PEP levels. The Bird doesn't have the accuracy I like for full PEP...