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I bought from here - http://www.88radio.com/ I'm in the UK, and was under the impression this company was situated in Hong Kong - but reading up further on this company, it would seem they also ship from America. Their website contact info' says they're in China/HK. My guess is that when...

Hello, Logging into my account on the 88radio website showed my order as "processing" for 5 or 6 days. I sent an eMail on the 5th or 6th day after placing my order asking when it will be sent, & I received a reply from "Orion?" or some similarly named company saying they'd require another $40...

I'm thinking of getting one of these as they're nicely priced & there's not much else in its category. For anyone that's owned one for a while, what are these like in terms of reliability? Are there any regular problems to look out for? Also, I've read in a few places that there was an...

Many thanks all for the good advice - I will take heed of it. At present, I set the ALC on SSB to 25 > 50% with compression off, mic gain at 20%, then turned compression to 4, and this peaks at around 90% with the occasional tickle of the red with loud voice. I'll turn compression down to...

Anyone, please?

I've only recently bought a 7300, & I'm curious as to whether or not the ALC (blue bar) should be lit up when transmitting in FM mode. As far as I'm aware, ALC is only used in SSB mode - but on mine, the blue bar lights up when keying in FM mode. Is this normal behaviour, please? Also, when...

Thank you for all the responses, guys. This rig is my 1st ever HF set, and I'm really very impressed with it. I can confirm my F/W version is v1.40, and I'm led to believe the "kHz" symbol I mentioned was part of the new upgrade & can be changed. Is it worth upgrading F/W to v1.41, or aren't...

Thanks a lot, guys. One final question - there's a "Khz" symbol in the upper right of the display to the right of the clock. It obviously means kHz, however, what does it denote on this, and do you know how I can remove it?

My Icom 7300 clicks when turning the VFO past certain frequencies, and the click sounds like a relay. When passing in RX 1.600 it clicks, also clicks when passing these frequencies; 7.300, 14.350, and 21.450. Can anybody please shed any light on why this is happening?

Nice one, Andy. (y):)

OK - I eventually got around to opening the McKinley up today, & have finally accomplished my mission of talking up "good movement" in average power without having to shout & scream down the mic'. I merely nudged very slightly RT207, AMC, and the rig is now working a treat with excellent audio...

I placed an order on Friday and my order is still showing as processing.. Looking at the address & contact details on the website, it would seem they're based in Hong Kong, however, my payment was made to something like "American Media" or similar. Anyone ordered from here, does it normally...

Cheers for the good input, Andy. I always thought the AMC preset was for AM modulation & not SSB. I can definitely do what you're asking & will get onto it later today, time permitting. So, in a nutshell, there's a good chance the AMC preset hasn't been set correctly at the factory, and this...

Hi Nomad, When I was setting the ALC level, I merely played a 1Khz sinewave tone into the microphone & turned the ALC (SSB power) down to 12W. I thought an Oscilloscope was only needed for setting modulation & some other parameters to avoid flat-topping. In the McKinley service manual, it...

Thanks for the replies, guys. When I bought it, the ALC (RT103/SSB Hi) was set to 20W and I was only averaging around 3 > 4W on that setting shouting into the mic'. I only recently reduced the ALC (RT103/SSB Hi) to 12W PEP. I have a fair few other SSB rigs, and these are all easy to "talk up"...

With the stock Electret Mic', I'm lucky to get around 1.5W average power on SSB. With a decent amplified Mic' set at full, I'm still only seeing around 2W, maybe less. Only a whistle next to the mic' can see this rig do 12W peak, and it's nowhere near attainable with speech, even loud speech or...

You guys thinking about the KL503, please seriously consider the KL505 instead. RM isn't particularly good as we all know, but the KL505 is a much better bit of kit than that 503.

Excellent in-depth explanation as always there, Andy. Many thanks. That 3 stages of pre-driver is absolute madness. It's funny you mention harmonics; I failed to mention in my initial post - I intermittently get the "Hi SWR" warning popping up on the 5555 screen at odd times, primarily on SSB...

I've used drive as low as a couple of watts & as high as about 7W all with the same bad audio outcome. I've tried these drive levels using other rigs, and they're all fine - so the problem would appear to be the 5555 being susceptible to RF feedback issues I think.

I've dug out my Maas DX-5000 which is the same as the Anytone AT5555, KPO DX5000, and others. Without an amplifier, the audio sounds fine, but when I connect my B550P or KL505 the audio on SSB goes to shit. I'm not overdriving the amps. These are both Class AB amplifiers & sound absolutely...