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Adding swing

Thanks Robb.
Interesting video.
I haven't done the mod yet till I get to radio shack in a few days.
I am a little confused about clipping the limiter. Loosecannon said clip or remove the mod limiter but in the video it seems like he is saying ya shouldn't. I may be reading him wrong. Can ya clear it up
Thanks
God Bless

For the NPC mod to work, the limiter is clipped. So long as the rest of the modification is done as shown by loosecannon on this thread, it won't allow the the negative clipping/distortion to happen. As was shown in the video.

Instead, you can get up to 200% modulation before positive peak clipping/distortion occurs. Clipping out the limiter (removing R276) by itself isn't right. But with the addition of the NPC mod (adding the resistor, the diode, and relocating the C233 disc capacitor) it will keep it from negative clipping/distorting (look at the top of this page for all of the details).

The mic gain will control the amount of positive rise of peak modulation. If too much mic gain is applied; then you will get positive peak clipping. All you need to do is keep the positive peak from clipping by being careful with you mic gain adjustment.

EDIT:
Keep in mind that the output final transistor will be working overtime; as it will be driven harder. Put a heat sink on the back of the radio behind the driver and final transistor. Keep the peak wattage about 16 peak watts with a 2 watt dead key @ 200% modulation. At 1 watt dead key; you should see 8 peak watts @ 200% modulation - BTW.
 
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Hi Cannon.
I understand everything ya said.With my big fingers instead of removing C233 cant I solder the IN4001 & 100ohm reststor combo on the solder side of the board. Unless I am reading wrong it is basically the same locations except flipped over. Am I correct??
Thanks
God Bless
 
swing mod ????

Hi Loose Cannon.
I did the mod exactely like ya said and when I key the mic the needle pegs to the right. When I adjust vr14 or vr18 the needle dont move.
Also there is no modulation when I key the mic. The needle tries to swing backwards. I can hear myself when talkback is on.
Thanks
God Bless
 
first lets check the obvious things.

you do have your meter on the radio set to read power, and not in the SWR or CAL positions right?

if thats not it, you might have put the diode/resistor in backwards.

i noticed in your post that you were going to put them on the solder side of the PC board, which is fine, just make sure you have them soldered in the right place.
resistor should still be toward the back of the radio, and diode toward the front.

it really sounds to me like you have them soldered to the wrong traces.

also, if you dont want to clip the AMC resistor, you can just turn up the VR.
its not quite as "loud" as removing the resistor, but its pretty close.

dont key the radio anymore until you have confirmed that you have the diode/resistor combo soldered to the right traces, and also make sure that they are not shorting against any other traces or the case of the radio.
LC
 
Hi all !!
I put everything back to stock and now I can set my dk by using the power knob.
I put the r276 back in and now after 30 seconds it smokes and still no mod.
I lost the original resistor. It call for a 10-ohm 1/8 watt. Thats what I put in.
I'm puzzeled.
Any suggestions ????
Thanks
God Bless
 
From what I can gather from your posts, I would recommend that you put the radio back to stock and maybe send it to a shop to do this mod and set it up with a scope to dial in the modulation.

Just saying . . .
 
oldtimer,

R276 is a 10 "K" ohm resistor, not a 10 ohm resistor.

that means 10,000 ohms.

you can use a 1/4 watt resistor if you cant find a 1/8 watt.

check your PM's, i replied to your message.
LC
 
Thanks Cannon.
I put the right part in and It works again!!! Go figure !!!!!
It's all back to stock again and everything works great!!!!!!
Thanks again
 
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From what I can gather from your posts, I would recommend that you put the radio back to stock and maybe send it to a shop to do this mod and set it up with a scope to dial in the modulation.

Just saying . . .


AMEN. Good cb shops just love fixing d!cked up radio's.
 
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hi guys.

i have a 929, and have done the mods to it that im about to suggest, so i know they work.

refer to this diagram for the parts locations:
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/galaxy/dx929/graphics/dx929_main_ept092913z_layout.gif

click on the diagram to enlarge it.

first, cut or remove R276. its just to the left of VR16. this is the AM modulation limiter.

next, find C233 and remove it. dont cut it. unsolder and remove it as you will be re-using it. C233 is located in the rear right corner of the board, just to the left of Q55.

get a 100 ohm resistor (1/4 watt is fine), and a 1N4001 diode. (yes, your 1N4004 diode will work fine, but the leads may be to large to fit through the hole in the PC board)


solder one end of the 100ohm resistor to the BANDED end of the diode.
refer to the diagram at the bottom of this post to see how it should be done.

put the diode/resistor combo in the holes where C233 used to be, and solder it in.
the resistor should be towards the back of the radio and the diode towards the front.

now, on the solder (green) side of the PC board, solder the capacitor you removed to the two spots where you just soldered the diode/resistor.
(basically you are putting it back where it was, just on the other side of the PC board. its not polarized so it doesnt matter what direction you solder it)

now, as for the deadkey not going any lower than 3 watts, you have to understand that there are two VR's that control your deadkey level, and they work together.

here's how it works:
because you have a variable RF power control on the front of the radio, there are two internal controls that allow you to set the thresholds or limits of your high and low power. (max clockwise and max counterclockwise on the RF power knob)

these two VR's are VR18 (low power limit) and VR14 (high power limit)

they do interact with one-another and turning one will affect the level of the other so it does take just a bit of going back and forth to get them set where you want.

here's now to do it:
turn the mic gain all the way down so it doesnt affect your readings.

now, turn the RF power knob on the front of the radio all the way down. (counterclockwise)
adjust VR18 until you get a deadkey of 1 watt.

if it wont go down that far, turn VR14 to lower the high power limit enough to allow you to set the low limit at 1 watt.

once you get that done, turn the RF power knob on the front of the radio all the way up. (clockwise)
now adjust VR14 for a deadkey of 4 watts.

now turn the RF power knob all the way down again, and check your deadkey.
if its not still at 1 watt, adjust VR18 for 1 watt.

turn the RF power knob all the way up and check your deadkey. if its not still at 4 watts, adjust VR14 until it is at 4 watts.

that should do it, but you may have to bounce back and forth a few times to get it right.
the important part is to have the RF power knob turned all the way down when adjusting VR18 and all the way up when adjusting VR14.

now you should be able to vary your deadkey from 1 to 4 watts, and the radio will swing up to its maximum PEP potential no matter where you set the deadkey.

good luck,
LC
I tried this mod sand it did absolutely nothing!!
 
I tried this mod sand it did absolutely nothing!!

what i showed there was the most basic form of the NPC mod.

This mod only has one purpose, and that's to allow a radio to swing to its max PEP (you won't gain any more PEP watts by doing this mod) from a low deadkey while keeping the scope pattern clean.

unless you turned the deadkey down below 4 watts, you would see nothing changing after this mod.

try turning your radio down to a 1 watt deadkey and it should still swing up as high as it did with a 4 watt deadkey.

if the radio in question already had other mods, like say, a swing mod, added to it, then you would see no change after doing this mod.
LC
 

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