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Anytone at-5555n II (version 2)

Last night I replaced the TIP36C bipolar transistor and reflowed the connection to the power plug with no improvement in the modulation or dimming of the display during SSB modulation.

I went rummaging through my radio parts stash and I do have a new L7808CV voltage regulator (U750), a new C2314 (Q109 pre-driver?) as well as six new IRF520 and four 13N10 MOSFETs (Q102, Q102, Q103, Q104). Is there any point in me replacing any of these (and checking/setting the bias) as a Hail-Mary type of play? I don't mind removing, testing and replacing these because the parts are inexpensive and I already have them. But if it's unlikely to help, I won't bother.

Beyond that, it's beyond my skillset and knowledge to even know what to do next. Then the decision would have to be to decide between the 6666 Pro, the QT60 Pro or Anytone Q5N2 short chassis. I like the larger display better on the latter two units but maybe it's because I'm used to my current Q5N2. The 6666 Pro looks like a great unit too!

You can also tell in the picture below that one of my daughter's cats has been closely supervising me whilst I poke around in the radio. He's very curious, and nosy.

View attachment 69549
I doubt the 8 volt reg is bad, but I cant say the same for the PA devices. I don;t recall if you did, but have you checked the gate voltages on the IRF520's? Oh, and don't use 13N10's
 
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I doubt the 8 volt reg is bad, but I cant say the same for the PA devices. I don;t recall if you did, but have you checked the gate voltages on the IRF520's? Oh, and don't use 13N10's
Sorry but time for another dumb question... Can the IRF520 gate voltage be tested with them still soldered in place or do they have to be removed to do this?
 
I am looking at the IRF520 in Q104 as an example of measuring the gate voltage with the mosfet still soldered in place.

I switched the multimeter to diode mode.
With the radio off, I connected the red lead to Source leg and black to Drain. Then I turned the radio on, keyed the mic on SSB, no modulation. Voltage dropped from .5201 to 0. Similar initial values and drop to 0 were observed on the other three IRF520s as well

Is this close to being the correct way to do it? No smoke or dimming of house lighting was observed, which in win by itself.

I did subsequently replace the voltage regulator L7808CV with a new one but as you expected, it made no difference.

It's looking more and more like this is headed to eBay under the Repairable Radio group. Darn I was hoping I could get this sorted out. If this was a mechanical device, it would already be blown apart to its component parts on the workbench. Except if it was an automatic transmission. The valve bodies in them are voodoo / black magic.


IRF520.jpg
 
Have you shotgunned the FET's yet?
I have several calibers of "tools" available to me here but none from the shotgun family. But I have thought about introducing this radio to one of my little friends.

However, I have a feeling that shotgunning the FETs might mean something else to electronics tech/experts. I will say that the original MOSFETS are still in place and have not been removed/replaced by me.
 
I have several calibers of "tools" available to me here but none from the shotgun family. But I have thought about introducing this radio to one of my little friends.

However, I have a feeling that shotgunning the FETs might mean something else to electronics tech/experts. I will say that the original MOSFETS are still in place and have not been removed/replaced by me.
Shotgunning = replace everything and hope for the best.
 
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Here are the readings. I tested both with black to source and again black to ground. Same results.

Q101 3.595 volts
Q102 3.595 volts
Q103 4.058 volts
Q104 3.854 volts
Q109 1.2991 volts
109 is not a FET....but the other gate voltages look somewhat right. Maybe finals are a bit low and driver a bit high and I mean a bit.
 
Hitting the end of the road on my ability to further diagnose the root cause of this radio's SSB modulation quality issue means from here on out I would just be blindly throwing parts at it. No thank you. The soldering iron has been holstered. I'm definitely not one to throw parts at my project cars/motorcycles/snowmobiles/etc. I try to stay within the project plan, budget and timeline, more or less. My current Mustang project has had enough required stuff thrown at/on it, much more than was supposed to be needed. Oh well, at least it's nearly done now.

Maybe someone else would judge this radio's sound to be just fine and I am just too picky. I'm sure I will find a buyer for it on CL or FB Marketplace. And I will be fully disclosing my concerns about how I think it sounds on SSB.
 
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Hitting the end of the road on my ability to further diagnose the root cause of this radio's SSB modulation quality issue means from here on out I would just be blindly throwing parts at it. No thank you. The soldering iron has been holstered. I'm definitely not one to throw parts at my project cars/motorcycles/snowmobiles/etc. I try to stay within the project plan, budget and timeline, more or less. My current Mustang project has had enough required stuff thrown at/on it, much more than was supposed to be needed. Oh well, at least it's nearly done now.

Maybe someone else would judge this radio's sound to be just fine and I am just too picky. I'm sure I will find a buyer for it on CL or FB Marketplace. And I will be fully disclosing my concerns about how I think it sounds on SSB.
Perhaps go through the bias alignment procedure, before you pack it in.
 

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