Bearcat 980 w/ AD-203

[tba02]

10 GA AWG should be OK for a run ~10 ft.
My experience is that it will draw about 28 amps on 4, and just under 30 amps on 6.
2.5 watts DK swinging to ~10 (and you don't want to go over 12) will get you 185-200 watts using the #4 setting.
You don't want more that more than 10-12 watts SSB PEP either.

 

[Spidermonkey]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll shoot some pics when Its all done. What's the free picture hosting site of choice these days?

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

Just click the "Upload a File" button and insert your pictures directly into the post.

 

[Spidermonkey]

Shot of the radio installed

 

[Spidermonkey]

Overview of the bracket.

 

[w9cll]

That is probably the worst place you could have mounted that antenna. There is zero ground under it and the truck body is blocking a good portion of the whip.

 

[Spidermonkey]

Still need to paint the bracket, put some black wire loom over the cable as protection, and change to black zip ties.
Looks "OK" but works well.
Pay no attention to my junk and mastercraft under the knife.

 

[w9cll]

Looks "OK" but works well.

http://www.k0bg.com/eff.html - In other words, It is the metal mass directly under the antenna, not what's along side, that counts!

 

[Spidermonkey]

I was reading that earlier today. My options are limited. There is no way I'm mounting it on the cab roof. Whip would be way to high. The other option would have been the middle of the cap. Its fiberglass. I suppose I could have attached a metal plate say 3' x 5' x .040 thk under the cap and mounted the bracket to the cap with a large short wire bonding it to the bracket. Then in turn ground the plate to the frame. This was mentioned as an option earlier.
I assume a lot of my efficiency is being lost to ground...rather then to the vehicle ground plane.

 

[Spidermonkey]

That is probably the worst place you could have mounted that antenna. There is zero ground under it and the truck body is blocking a good portion of the whip.

No..the worst place was on the frame and coming up between the cab and box. My SWR readings were through the roof. Second worst? Lol

 

[w9cll]

Second worst? Lol

Okay second! LOL

 

[Spidermonkey]

 

[Spidermonkey]

Okay second! LOL

Do you think the idea of the metal plate under the fiberglass cap and getting a ball mount secured right through the fiberglass and through the plate so its grounded to that would be better? If I mounted it a bit forward of center and used a barrel spring it might allow my to tie it back during times I need it lower. Not too late to do that. In fact I could leave it as is until I get the plate and ball mount added and then just remove the bracket from the hitch.

 

[Spidermonkey]

Infact....I'll measure thickness of the glass cap. I may be able to use the stud right through the metal plate, the fiberglass and and say a 3" diameter aluminum thin disc as a washer to spread the load out. I'll have to look at that option maybe?
Ps-I am a mechanical engineer by profession...a electronic hack by hobby lol.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

Infact....I'll measure thickness of the glass cap. I may be able to use the stud right through the metal plate, the fiberglass and and say a 3" diameter aluminum thin disc as a washer to spread the load out. I'll have to look at that option maybe?
Ps-I am a mechanical engineer by profession...a electronic hack by hobby lol.

That sounds like it might work if you can keep it from leaking. I would make the big inside plate as big as you can get it to fit inside the lid.