Bearcat 980 w/ AD-203

[Spidermonkey]

I'm thinking the bracket is replaced by the metal plate, the insulator would be the fiberglass cap, and then the small flat washer would be replaced with a 2" diameter laser cut tgin plste/washer on to stop the fiberglass from breaking out, lockwasher and tighten it all up...assuming thickness worked out....I think it would. I'll need to make the hole in the cap smaller then the hole in metal plate to ensure doesn't short.
I would then ground the metal plate under the cap to the truck box and the truck box to the frame. Thoughts?

 

[Spidermonkey]

That sounds like it might work if you can keep it from leaking. I would make the big inside plate as big as you can get it to fit inside the lid.

I think I can make the plate about 5 feet wide and 6 feet long. Steel vs aluminum...any advantages in this case? As for leaking..if you mean water..no problem. I would put a thin layer of silicon between the 2" metal disc I'll get laser cut and the cap. I can seal it up I'm sure. Infact I could put a thin piece of rubber the same size as the disc under it with the center hole slightly smaller then stud so when it tightens up it will seal it and prove good insulation in place of the insulation washer normally used.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

Steel or aluminum would work about the same. Aluminum wouldn't need paint.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I'm thinking the bracket is replaced by the metal plate, the insulator would be the fiberglass cap, and then the small flat washer would be replaced with a 2" diameter laser cut tgin plste/washer on to stop the fiberglass from breaking out, lockwasher and tighten it all up...assuming thickness worked out....I think it would. I'll need to make the hole in the cap smaller then the hole in metal plate to ensure doesn't short.
I would then ground the metal plate under the cap to the truck box and the truck box to the frame. Thoughts?

You would almost need to sleeve the stud with some thin plastic tubing. It will be hard to keep the stud centered on the large plate without the plastic washer to center it up. The plastic washer can't go on the bottom of the stud because the big part of the connector needs to have contact with the plate.

 

[Spidermonkey]

You would almost need to sleeve the stud with some thin plastic tubing. It will be hard to keep the stud centered on the large plate without the plastic washer to center it up. The plastic washer can't go on the bottom of the stud because the big part of the connector needs to have contact with the plate.

Agreed. I'll need to come up with something which I'm sure I can. I have a friend who has a lathe and could make me up some sort of spacer to keep the center stud from contacting the plate. I think I'm leaning towards aluminum sheet and not steel. I'll measure it up and get it sheared to size.

 

[Spidermonkey]

OK....works been busy but managed to design up what I need for a sheet under the cap. Going with 0.040 thk aluminum.
Before I pull the trigger I just have one question regarding group d plane and SWR.
I understand that a poor ground plane can cause high SWR....but can you have a good SWR and a poor ground plane? I am assuming that since my SWR is very good the signal is "getting out" but only a small portion is being reflected out and I am loosing a lot from no reflection due to mount location. So basically I am broadcasting efficiently from the antenna but its being sent straight into the ground instead of being reflected upwards and outward. Do I have this right?

 

[Low_Boy]

I have seen a mount that slides in to the hitch and mounts there instead of a ball.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OPEK-AM-40...775LsZ6ixcGYxog:sc:USPSFirstClass!14526!US!-1

 

[Spidermonkey]

As far as ground plane....this in theory would be worse then what I have now. Also not great for a truck as you can't drop the tailgate.

 

[Blackcat630]

Ok I know I'm a little late to the party but if you are dead set on running a 1/4 wave whip and your not afraid of drilling some holes... Ball mount to the bed side (properly installed) Get a good one... look up Breedlove ball mounts. Indestructible. You need to give this antenna a true counterpoise to work with...like a full size metal body panel. A plate under your bed cover is, in my opinion, half assin it. Not to mention a lot more work. If you're opposed to this option. My ram has a permanent mount in the roof. I run a (old) wilson 5000 works great. Have also have good luck with the Sirio P5000 but it is a little longer and the whip is a bit stiffer. My truck is 4x4 so I like a little more flexibility and slightly less length the wilson whip offers. Just my .02....

 

[Spidermonkey]

Blackcat....I get what your saying. If I hadn't just put a crap ton of money into the body and paint on this thing it would be a no brainer. I'm totally against any holes going into this truck sheet metal. Idea with the 102" whip is that from what I understand they give you the best performance....assuming they are mounted adequately. Intact I have read a few times that even a mediocre mount on a 102" whip can out perform most others.
I can stomach the idea of a hole in the fiberglass cap...its easy to repair and ultimately doesn't effect the value of the truck itself.
I think I will try the metal sheet under the cap. I have a plan to test mount it without drilling the hole in the cap to see the results first. I have a real low SWR now so I was just wondering if my SWR is very good does that mean my current mount location is fine? I know a bad SWR can be caused from a bad mount/ground plane...but can a good SWR still have poor transmission due to a lack of ground plane....or would that show up in the SWR?

 

[Spidermonkey]

Ok I know I'm a little late to the party but if you are dead set on running a 1/4 wave whip and your not afraid of drilling some holes... Ball mount to the bed side (properly installed) Get a good one... look up Breedlove ball mounts. Indestructible. You need to give this antenna a true counterpoise to work with...like a full size metal body panel. A plate under your bed cover is, in my opinion, half assin it. Not to mention a lot more work. If you're opposed to this option. My ram has a permanent mount in the roof. I run a (old) wilson 5000 works great. Have also have good luck with the Sirio P5000 but it is a little longer and the whip is a bit stiffer. My truck is 4x4 so I like a little more flexibility and slightly less length the wilson whip offers. Just my .02....

I went to the breedlove website. They make a mount for the hitch which is virtually identical of what I did.

 

[Blackcat630]

Try it and see how it works out for you. If you have (or could borrow) a decent mag mount antenna you could always throw it on top the cab temporarily for comparison purposes.. I have personally always raved about the performance of a 1/4 wave when compared to anything else I played with.... In my situation I was lucky enough to have my wife's old rusted honda accord (work car). I had no problem with drilling the rear quarter and doing a ball mount. I understand completely your hesitation on doing this to your good looking truck.. Good luck with the experimentation.. it's all part of the hobby

 

[Handy Andy]

That is one of the hardest choices, to drill or not to drill - and I never regretted the choices of using permanent mounts - even if it meant to leave the vehicle parked outside...never had the kind of mounting issues committing to a roof or hatch mount.

That's the sad thing about 11 meter - the radios' fine, the antenna and it's needs are what scare a lot of people away...

Regards!
:+> Andy <+:
...You could be a CB'er when...
...People ask you about why you have a "Tennis ball" on your whip...
...You smile back and answer, "It's pregnant and we're expecting twins!"...

 

[loosecannon]

I haven't read through the whole thread, but has this option been suggested yet?

https://www.walcottradio.com/firestik-ss194a-stainless-steel-stake-hole-pocket-mount-p-310.html

LC

 

[Mudpuppy]

I just ordered a bearcat 980, 102" whip, mount, coax and some Pl259 connectors along with an SWR and power meter.
I am getting back into CB and this time around want to dive into the electronics a bit more in depth. I have a decent understanding of electronics but outside of HF radios. I have repaired many stereo amplifiers and know the basics. I have decent soldering station, DMM, and mechanical electrical skills. What I don't have is radio/rf experience.
I have been trying to learn as much as I can and read everything I can that's relevant to this radio. I almost bought from SRC but already ordered by the time I saw his website. I like the idea of the AD-203 inside. I am sure I have the skill to pull off the install if I had a schematic. Also need to learn a bit more on the basics of tuning. Does anyone have any insight as to where I can find info on this? I would like to unlock the clarifier(confident I can do this NP), add the "AD stinger", and set the DK at about 2.75-3w. Can I use an oscilliscope to align frequency? Any tips on going about this or how to videos that are actual how to and not how not to?....argg...whish I knew more about RF. I'm from Winnipeg, Canada and don't know any techs up here and love doing my own projects. Any info or source for schematics would he awsome...can't seem to find for 980ssb. I am assuming mine will arrive in second version style.

Take a look at the Anytone 5555n. 10 meter export easily