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Cleaning up Interference Noise???
- Thread starter seagiant
- Start date
one thing you can try is go to a auto parts store and buy a capacitor that was used on distributors that had points in them from 60's and 70's and it is a can with 1 wire on it. ground the can and them put the lead to the center wire of each item you are getting noise from. see if this helps. the easiest one 1st would be the ac fan. put the can to ground on the fire wall the the center lead to the power wire right at the blower motos. see if that helps and mif it does try the wipers with another one.
here is a link to the parts I was talking about since moist counter help guys will not know what you are talking about.
http://www.autozone.com/ignition/po...oints&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false
http://www.autozone.com/ignition/po...oints&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false
Before you do ANYTHING else, start the vehicle and turn on the CB.
Turn on the fan. When the noise starts, disconnect the antenna from the back of the CB. Note if the noise goes away. Then turn off the fan and turn the wipers on and reconnect the antenna.
If the noise goes away when the antenna is not connected, the antenna system is what's bringing the noise in. If the noise is there as long as the fan and/or wipers are going, then it's the power leads carrying the noise.
Two possible sources; two entirely different fixes. Best to know how the noise is getting in.
Turn on the fan. When the noise starts, disconnect the antenna from the back of the CB. Note if the noise goes away. Then turn off the fan and turn the wipers on and reconnect the antenna.
If the noise goes away when the antenna is not connected, the antenna system is what's bringing the noise in. If the noise is there as long as the fan and/or wipers are going, then it's the power leads carrying the noise.
Two possible sources; two entirely different fixes. Best to know how the noise is getting in.
If the noise is in the power line, then there are many filters on the market that will eliminate that. If the noise is being picked up by the antenna, then you are SOL.
Quick and easy way to find out how much difference a power-line filter will make to your problem.
UNPLUG THE ANTENNA!
Naturally you should make sure the squelch is open, the ANL/NB are both turned off, and the volume is at a normal listening level.
If you hear any noise this way, without any antenna at all connected, that noise may be entering the radio through the power connection. And whatever noise you hear this way is what that power-line filter will fix.
If you hear no noise at all this way, that's exactly how much the power-line filter will fix.
And if ALL the noises go away until the antenna is reconnected, that means that your noise sources are transmitting those noises into the air. Your antenna will pick them up.Just the same as it picks up the signals you want to hear.
Way too many noises caused by devices in your vehicle must be suppressed at the source, before that noise energy feeds into the vehicle's wiring harness. I have seen a few cases where putting the antenna too close to the tail light made the noise level higher. The wiring harness in your car is a transmitting antenna. Anything in the car that feeds noise energy into it gets transmitted into the surrounding area.
73
UNPLUG THE ANTENNA!
Naturally you should make sure the squelch is open, the ANL/NB are both turned off, and the volume is at a normal listening level.
If you hear any noise this way, without any antenna at all connected, that noise may be entering the radio through the power connection. And whatever noise you hear this way is what that power-line filter will fix.
If you hear no noise at all this way, that's exactly how much the power-line filter will fix.
And if ALL the noises go away until the antenna is reconnected, that means that your noise sources are transmitting those noises into the air. Your antenna will pick them up.Just the same as it picks up the signals you want to hear.
Way too many noises caused by devices in your vehicle must be suppressed at the source, before that noise energy feeds into the vehicle's wiring harness. I have seen a few cases where putting the antenna too close to the tail light made the noise level higher. The wiring harness in your car is a transmitting antenna. Anything in the car that feeds noise energy into it gets transmitted into the surrounding area.
73
There's the answer: leave the A/C turned off; problem solved. Now, how do I get rid of the sweat stains...?
Something like this might also work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnum-XLF-...650616?hash=item210a3c63b8:g:dRsAAOSwUuFWvkQf
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnum-XLF-...650616?hash=item210a3c63b8:g:dRsAAOSwUuFWvkQf
Actually not always. Many of the times the noise is being picked up because of common mode RFI and is actually being picked up on the coax, not the antenna itself. The reason for this is because of an inadequate RF ground from doing things like using magmounts and not doing bonding. Talking about bonding, one of the biggest sources of vehicle generated RFI is the exhaust. Makes a great antenna for all that electrical noise from the spark plugs. Using bonding straps on each exhaust section to the frame/body may eliminate the noise.
Again I recommend the OP reads up everything at www.k0bg,com. Yes it is aimed at amateur radio HF but every single principle applies to CB installations as well. Focus on Antenna Mounting, Bonding and Grounding.
Here's a good write up for grounding and bonding someone did with their install, following the advice on k0bg.com. They started out with S9 of noise with the vehicle running and by the time they finished it was S0, same as mine. Funnily enough I've also done the same except no transceiver ground on mine because unlike them I got the drill out and I'm not using a magmount.....
As in the article below, use braid straps, not wire unless you're going to use 0000ga which you'll need to get the same efficiency as flattened RG213 braid.
https://stationproject.wordpress.com/2013/08/19/mobile-hf-installation-part-24-bonding-and-choking/
