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Cobra 25 unhacking project

Just kicking around ideas. It would have to go back to stock first anyways. Who knows, maybe it would sound so great I would keep it stock and hack my newer 25. I really need to figure out what I want to do with it to know what to do to it.
It's your thread, I don't mind helping you the best I can, just let me know what you have in mind.
Is the newer one China made?
Are you new to soldering?

No matter what you decide, please be "brushed up" on soldering practice.

If you are new, practice on the less rare radio (china made).
Or scrap electronics, until you are laying down "chrome looking" solder naturally. Never use too much heat (hell of a pointer i know lol).
Trust me when I say one of the worse feelings in the world is when you ruin / "lift a circuit trace" on an old Philly made Uniden/Cobra, I did that once on a radio that was older than me, man that hurt my pride and ego for days.
 
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Lol, this is practice for my 148. I'm not an smt soldering master, but I can solder pretty well. Clean hot and fast has always worked for me.
Excellent, If it was me I'd remove all the prior mods, who knows what dodgey crud is hiding with the hack work still in their. Make it stock (easy/simple), it'll be worth more to a potential collector that way.

And the whole variable power thing, that's just common practice for people who run a linear,
It's true most linears like small input, and the initial deadkey is small, but the variable deadkey mod for the Cobra (if not set right) will swing too hard and over-drive the amplifier into saturation..


Using the variable dead key modification on one of these mobile Cobra radios leaves you at risk for overmodulation and interference without monitoring your station with an oscilloscope.
 
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There is the vicious circle. The only reason to modify it to be heard. To be heard by anyone other than truckers, you need a few kw, and a beam. Last I checked I don't have either of those, and I really don't care if a trucker is impressed by my audio. Kinda hard to justify any mods. Maybe I should just get my ticket so I can look down on all the cb'ers and feel better about myself.
 
There is the vicious circle. The only reason to modify it to be heard. To be heard by anyone other than truckers, you need a few kw, and a beam. Last I checked I don't have either of those, and I really don't care if a trucker is impressed by my audio. Kinda hard to justify any mods. Maybe I should just get my ticket so I can look down on all the cb'ers and feel better about myself.
I try not to look down on anyone no matter what hobby they enjoy. (I also love CB believe me)

Run box car audio, flat topping, shark teeth, chainsaw, triangle wave forms, it makes no difference to me.
I'm simply suggesting somethings, If you want a loud radio, I can tell you just what to snip, clip, n' spread, it won't be my station so it won't hurt me... <--{Always avoid this attitude, I was heated here & not thinking}

Screw it, let 'em all run comp boxes + echo + roger beep on ssb.....
How does that bother you?

Most of my CB friends run clipped limiters, they are retired and set in their ways who am i to say clean is mean, they don't want to hear that stuff.

I'm sorry you feel that way, truck drivers work hard and most are good people.
I am lucky enough to have locals on the CB that talk everyday, they all have "Power Boxes", & I'm a four watt duck, but I still get a chance to talk (if no one else is keyed up).. Yeah it's very frustrating knowing that anybody can walk on my signal, & that I'm the smallest guy on the block; they have that, but for now I have this: I may be the cleanest one on the block!

I have talked very far with a standard radio, and I've talked less distanced with a "swing mod peak ntune" junker & I made that bucket WORSE because I did all the mods, sure it sounded "tree-top-tall" but nevermind that I was getting out less..

Oh by the way, I am not a HAM. (..Yet)
 
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The ham thing was a joke, and I meant no disrespect to truck drivers.
It just sucks when literally all of my locals run a 2x2879 or bigger, at first I was hoping mosfet conversion would do it, then I tried swing kit, nothing helped.

I'm just a strong believer that if you're going to be running an amplifier you need to drive it correctly, without outrageous swing #'s but rather a correct and pure 1:4 ratio.

And to be brutally honest with you, part of me contemplated buying an amplifier years ago, I was disheartened when I realized that my swing kit cobra would not be driving an amplifier correctly, that's my beef with low drive amplifiers and Cobras w/swingkits, if an amplifier can handle 4 watt carrier and 16 p.e.p. input (w/headroom to spare), and the radio is dead nuts on 100% modulation, that is a proper loud distortion free setup. (I.M.H.O.)

Somebody once bought an RM Italy amplifier that liked to see 0.5-1 watt of input drive, so he set his variable power on the Cobra way down low (1 watt) & "let her rip", 1-30 p.e.p. he couldn't understand how he was putting too much input in the amp & over driving it.

Simply put those peak #'s of the radio were so high and unatural (extreme modulation/swingkit), there was nothing else left to happen but for the radio to overdrive that amplifier and push the transistors into saturation, then eventually.... pop!
{Not to mention the G*d aweful 'harmonic trash' the over-drive will produce }

With a radio that has (while having reduced output) a proper modulation %, the poor little amp would have seen only 2-4 watts p.e.p., but his radio was not natural nor was it "de-tuned" in the proper manner, hence the possibility for a huge swing & over-drive. Just because he started with a "low dead key", does not mean the radio was suitable for his low drive amplifier!

I think a lot of people can form this misconception just by reading/seeing what they find on the net, not really putting the entire picture together.

While it is true that you can put an export [that's swinging from 1 watt to 40 pep] into a class c amplifier and see big output numbers, most of the time those videos are shown to demonstrate big numbers & not a clean signal. Honestly I don't hold people who run equipment like that (daily) in high regard. I hope people do not over-drive gear on the daily, it won't last long i.m.o. if they do anyways.

In my opinion it's just wrong,hmm maybe I could find some scientific document to prove that "swing kit" is not a part of "real A.M." There are proper ways to detune a radio for a low drive amplifier, using a Cobra 29/25. It could even be done with a tip120 mod but the rest of the setup is extensive and you must have an oscilloscope.


The huge modulation percentages are appealing to certain people, usually whom have the amplifiers that are biased "Class-C", because you wouldn't (I wouldn't) want to run a "garbage signal" (neg peaks crashing) into an AB amplifier, that would just be wasted current.

I guess how ever you excite an amplifier, as long as it has headroom to breathe and is not pushed "ball to the wall" it would work, but I wonder if people ever bothered to stop and ask why they want "swing" or if they even should want it.

Unless you are simply describing the max "forward" p.e.p. output in reference to the carrier power as a "swing", then I personally believe the term is being misused.

Often times "swing" is used to describe a "super modulation" modification, this helps to add further confusion when people form their own conclusions from the internet alone.

Thanks to the internet, today we have a mythical creature called "SWING", it is subjective and thus open to interpretation.
Just some of my thoughts, experiences, and opinions.

Let me "swing from 1:4" & I'll show you a relatively clean signal.
-LeapFrog
 
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Lol, this is practice for my 148. I'm not an smt soldering master, but I can solder pretty well. Clean hot and fast has always worked for me.
Sounds like you got traditional soldering down, I want to share a link that you might enjoy if you are truly interested in getting into smt/smd.

This man has several videos that will explain what equipment you need, how the process goes and he will even demonstrate repairs on delicate computer motherboards!

Check out Rossmam on YouTube
While he generally only works on Apple products for his repair business, I honestly feel like he is one of the best persons to watch if you are interested in electronics repair involving smt/smd.
In fact I don't think I've ever seen the guy do a single "through-hole" repair!
 
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Clean hot and fast has always worked for me.
A good solder joint is always made in three to five seconds. You have to match the tools to the job. You would not use a 100 watt iron on surface mount board. Some of the solder joints I saw in the photos were disturbed while cooling giving it the frosty look.

You were looking for a hobby piece and found a career instead.
 
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A good solder joint is always made in three to five seconds. You have to match the tools to the job. You would not use a 100 watt iron on surface mount board. Some of the solder joints I saw in the photos were disturbed while cooling giving it the frosty look.

You were looking for a hobby piece and found a career instead.
Lol I don't think it's that bad Tallman, I didn't see any burnt traces or solder bridges all over the place, hell I think the only spot that person fooled with on the solder side of the board was for the TalkBack!
I think he did alright for thirty bucks, I paid 35 one time for Uniden pc68 that was in worse shape.
 
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The wire that was "Tacked" to the top of a resistor look pretty crappy! I bought one radio from eBay(Cobra 148) and it had been hacked to death, literally. They claimed it worked great, but I think they were talking before they took the covers off. I returned it to stock operating standards put the covers back on it and put it on the shelf.
 
I especially like the high tech insulation wrapping around what appeared to be a circuit board. I wonder if the baggie had contain some other type of "Pot."
Puts a different meaning to "High Tech."
 
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As far as your talkback, clean all that stuff off and use a 1/2 or 1 watt resistor with a value of 33 to 100 ohms, the smaller the value the louder it will be, to small may give you feedback issues. I personally run it thru the useless channel 9 switch so you can shut it off.
I did read thru all the post of the variable issue. I'm not sure of what you have decided to do, but you might look into the "Dial a watt" mod where you have 1, 2 or 3 settings on a switch.
I have had good luck with a transistor and cap in the jumper(TIP 29 w/470), but what all those mods don't tell you is that you should throw away the RF gain pot, 50k or whatever is to big, 1K to 500 ohms is what you want. (don't tell anyone).

It's hard to see a sense of humor or tell if it's a joke on the web. But over my 30 years on the road I have ran across more moron's with base stations and a ticket since "no code" than in previous years, who come to channel 19 for a "little fun".

Good luck with your project.
 

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