Greetings!
Just focus on L22 peaking for Channel 20...then you're really done with the O-scope for now...
Check DC volts for Varactor tuning - look, clip, hook, or probe tip at R88 for ~3.2V on Channel 40 - adjust L19 for the reading...you don't need to TX either...you can use the RF weak signal coming from that dummy loaded radio TX'ing it's heart out for you if you need to verify that Channel 40 or any channel your workhorse mule dummy load radio is on...when the PLL locks, L19 just needs to be "tweaked" so it can lock into the range of tuning the varactor is working with on the PLL. Once the PLL locks onto the channel frequency even if it's a little off - you'll get some noise out of the speaker, just make sure Squelch control is off, NB and ANL are off and the Channel 9 or 19 switch is not on.
Note - some radios you can't get a stable reading at the ends of their tuning range bands - the PLL sense and lock signal is so unstable at times - like cold mornings - so when you and your radios are at room temperature - you are in a stable environment and all the PLL is gonna' try and do is lock the Varactor thru L19 and L22 into a stable loop ... L23 is from that Xtal so if that's screwed up - you're really in a world of hurt because L23 passes signal, just not a lot of it at it's extreme ends (top of bobbin - bottom of bobbin) so you don't lose the PLL unless the L23 has failed - did you break the slug? If so there's a bigger problem...but if you didn't - let's move on...IF you're not sure - just set L23's slug at mid-point of turns in the coil form ...
Once those two L22 and L19 are done LOCK AND LOAD on these - because L23 and L18 come into alignment when you tune for RX - they align themselves as you try to get a receive back into the radio...You do not need to go back to L19 or L22 for any reason - they give the RX side the 1st IF signal needed so the PLL can function - L23 just "peaks out" the 2nd IF - L18? Peaks out the 1st IF for your RX.
Then it's a simple process of RX peaking and broadbanding (channel 1 to Channel 40) via L2, L3, L4, L5, L6, L7 L8 and L9. What about - L1? That's NB - for best results leave NB off but turn ANL on once Signal and S-meter indication is noticeable and workable then use the Work-mule radio for signal on channel 1 (tune those RX cans) and Channel 40 (tuning those RX cans) ... see how this comes together - if you've done this right...
A trick I use ...
Once the Radio has settled in and is TX-ing and RX-in like it should - you may notice that the channels signal in the receiver level is not quite equal - you can retweak by adjusting L2 and L3 - by setting L18 to the bottom of it's core and then use your dummy loaded radio on channel 1 and re-tune L2 and L3 - note which coil really peaks out on this channel versus channel 40 - do the same to these two on channel 40, again looking for peaking favorite - you'll find a good range of "offset tuning" between these two channels of peaking set the one coil that favors or peaks more toward channel 1 and set the other that peaks better towards channel 40 - there's your "spread" and means to equalize signal strength between all channels for best results.
JUST REMEMBER TO RE-PEAK L18 TO RESTORE RX PERFORMANCE
In many ways, that older radio on the dummy load is your signal generator and all you need is a simple test jig for antenna on the SO-239 jack - even a spare test probe with a banana plug works - just stick it in there and listen for noise and signal from that dummy loaded radio and the channel it's TX'ing on...
TX is just tweaks to L20, L21 (twin slug) and L23 and L17.
L24 adjusts Delta Tune...
You Do Not need to make this harder than it is...
You'd be surprised as to how quickly you can learn to tune a radio by ear and layout pattern, so hang in there - we are working right alongside you...
Regards!
:+> Andy <+: