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Courier Centurion 40D Restore

357 -
The schematic in Sams #288 shows that C108 is a 0.1uf polarized capacitor. with the positive end going to the junction of D28 and R96. The only voltage shown in Sams in that area is TR17 collector at 4.41vdc. good luck. 73s.

EDIT: D32 is a 16.2v zener diode. It provides a 16-17vdc source at the junction of R304 and R305.

- 399
 
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unit_399 said:
357 -
The schematic in Sams #288 shows that C108 is a 0.1uf polarized capacitor. with the positive end going to the junction of D28 and R96. The only voltage shown in Sams in that area is TR17 collector at 4.41vdc. good luck. 73s.

EDIT: D32 is a 16.2v zener diode. It provides a 16-17vdc source at the junction of R304 and R305.

- 399
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I seen that too. All the pictures I seen of this board have the factory caps with the + at TR14 and the board is stamped that way too.
Its a mystery!

http://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/courier-centurion-40d-restore.195581/page-2#post-544448
 
A lot of times when people recap a radio, they forget that some of the caps with values less than 1.0 uf are electrolytics too. Usually metalized film, 400v rating or higher. In the 40D, there are 5 caps like this. These also need to be changed out when recapping.

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399
 
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You mean the mylar?

So the board marking is wrong....looking at coupling circuits, the schematic is right.

+ in / - out

more soldering.:(

Also that regulator is a 2SD188.
Anyone know what the next beefier one is? Maybe a TIP2955 would be better?

FARR_AVX02_OCT2008.gif
 
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Yup ... I should have said mylar. The regulator pass transistor 2SD188 is rated at 10 amps collector current, 200 Watt dissipation. Subs to an NTE 87. It should be more than the radio will ever require.

- 399
 
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Nice write up. Thanks! Got me looking at my radio.

I fired up the Centurion 40D I bought a while back for the first time the other night for a run on the Classic Radio Round Up show. After a few shots of DeoxIT F5, it was back on the air in fine style. The clock even started working.

Interestingly, I found the previous owner added a switch on the back and to my surprise it widened up the transmit audio very nicely when deployed :cool: I can post some pics if your interested.

Now all I need is a set of Courier factory Amphenol knobs to look almost as nice as yours. The channel selector and the four to the right of it were replaced with Radio Shack black "star" knobs at some point. Got any factory knobs lying around? I think Courier had another model with similar knobs.
 
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BBB said:
Nice write up. Thanks! Got me looking at my radio.

I fired up the Centurion 40D I bought a while back for the first time the other night for a run on the Classic Radio Round Up show. After a few shots of DeoxIT F5, it was back on the air in fine style. The clock even started working.

Interestingly, I found the previous owner added a switch on the back and to my surprise it widened up the transmit audio very nicely when deployed :cool: I can post some pics if your interested.

Now all I need is a set of Courier factory Amphenol knobs to look almost as nice as yours. The channel selector and the four to the right of it were replaced with Radio Shack black "star" knobs at some point. Got any factory knobs lying around? I think Courier had another model with similar knobs.
Click to expand...
I guess I could have a peek at the audio mod.
Its for TX?
 
357 said:
I guess I could have a peek at the audio mod.
Its for TX?
Click to expand...

The pics aren't that great but you can kind of see that the blue/wht and yellow/ green wires from the switch go to the sister board on the back of the radio chassis and the orange wire goes to the main board in one area. Not sure whats going on there yet or what components were added and/ or subtracted from the sister board where the blue/wht wire attaches, but again, audio reports were that it added a lot more bass to the output audio when engaged.

SbdnGTi.jpg


9eUnVYf.jpg


azLbCvJ.jpg


Obviously D602 and the diode directly to the lower right of it were cut and it looks like the blue /wht wire from the switch now attaches in a T fashion to a solid wire (insulated in yellow sleeving) and another solid wire to the left of D602.
 
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