Direct injected galaxy DX55V wattage problems

[Handy Andy]

Lets' take a look...

If the Spacer for the Audio Chip is gone, or perforated or had shifted, one of these conditions causes the chips' now live "mounting tab heat sink spreader" to short to ground.



If you use an insulated chassis - this would make the case sides, 1/2 the supply voltage - and since you have a lot of caps that bypass the speaker connectors - this can become a floating ground issue.

Check your 7222 chip - should get REAL HOT in this condition.

And also check your Speaker wire at the Spyder of the Speaker itself - make sure it's braid and wires to them - ARE NOT SHORTING to the case or to the CAGE of that speaker - check the speaker wires to it's cage - if any ohmic results are found investigate the speaker and its' mounting too...

C145's output to the speaker "connector" and output jacks - should not have 6 volts on them. May also indicate one or several smaller "line filter" caps - like C148/C149 or even C197 (By speaker connector) - are either shorted or going bad.

Here's a thought - remove C145 - and on the J3 trace, look for ohmic results - should be the speaker ohms here - check to Foil Ground - THEN DISCONNECT SPEAKER and check again - if still some ohmic numbers - check your scale - if it's above 20K setting you're fine - it's in the X1 and X20 ranges showing ohmic means you have a short somewhere...

 

[That_guy_in_wv]

Thanks for the reply andy, I'll try to check it this evening when I get back. I also wanted to note that I just tried to direct inject my 66v the same as my working 55v I have now (not the 55v we've been in) and it's doing the same thing the 33hml and 55v are and this was on dummy load never hooked to any computer just the audio output of my phones headphone plug with the same cord I use on my working 55vdi. I checked to contacts on it for the ex/pa and no voltage was present, I'm not sure what's causing this I've had a few on a hifi facebook forum say they had the same problem. I'm guessing maybe where my 55v is newer then the older 55v and 66v maybe some components are weak or going out when trying to direct inject and I've still yet to find them. Something must have went farther into a short on this 55v we're trying to figure out, at this point I'd rather have something smoke or show signs of being a bad part when checking at least lol. I'm not giving up just yet I'll try to find this fault first then go back to testing and swapping again. I appreciate the help handy Andy, some just don't understand how important these forums are to people in need of info for something like this and I wanted to thank you again for sticking with me and trying to help.

 

[Handy Andy]

Well, you're in a realm I have yet to recreate from my older days, but in the timeframe of then to this - technology has progressed so I mostly just "stick" with what I can get thru the main MIC jack and it seems to work out for me.

I didn't ask this before but I do remember people having issues with several caps to the rear panel - that may fail from a ground eddy current between the Antennas' shield and case of the radio - might want to see if the foil to case caps are damaged - it can explain the voltage issue...

But if you already "strapped" the radio - this may be a moot issue or rabbit hole to go down.

Just sorry to see this mess acerbates and expands into a "phantom beast" that keeps rearing it's ugly head - not unlike the Hydra from Greek legends'

Keep your Soldering IRON hot and ready....​