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Galaxy No am tx but ssb works fine
- Thread starter Northwoods
- Start date
Ok...I do not want this to turn into a TON of postings chasing Ghosts or using a Shotgun Approach to repairing Equipment that has been left out in the Rain for too many days. After being hit with a Hammer...
.
Per your advice...
It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...
Have you been checking continuity amongst the junctions?
Haven't heard anything about if the Limiter even works at Q57
So to me this board's rear corner has suffered a catastrophic failure - you have no voltages, then you have one place that would have no voltage, because they all should be connected hand in hand - but yet has - How? Only thing I can think of is a botched' NPC or we have a radio that suffered an unfortunate fate of torn traces due to it being dropped. This has happened - and it's caused by (for Example) the radio getting dropped on the counter - on it's corner - tearing traces. Botched mods from a previous owner, onto someone used this as an emergency floatation device to get out of a pothole in Newark New Jersey - maybe Recovered remains of something that landed in Area 51 just outside of Roswell...
You'll have to go back, trace to trace and check the foil for continuity to the next junction - its' a PITA but if the radios been in a truck being bounced around - this isn't new - just the bouncing of such a heavy component laden board - can do this as it ages.
- I'm just as frustrated as you are - I'm just venting...
You will find even that Caps, once were insulators, now have shifted and turned into conductors because their plates now touch and show dead shorts. Torque can do this - So this section - shown above, will have to be, gingerly, have those parts replaced one by one until the condition is removed.
As you have already found Q58 is located in a desert Oasis that has a trace from the BACK corner to the front just to apply power to Kill audio from the Mic Amp so FM and SSB can operate.
Lots of places that can have open Foil traces, or broken Resistors or cracked disc caps now failed... as;
this is sold by Weight, not by Volume -
Due to Handling - some shifting and breakage of components can occur without warning
Due to Handling - some shifting and breakage of components can occur without warning
You already know how heavy this thing is - the rest is up to you.
I'll leave this here, to help you locate the TRACES under the components...
I did up a post or two about "shining" to help someone else locate the Solder pads under the components they went looking for.
This is a similar process, again, you can thank Bennie at CB Tricks for even taking the time to post the info so I can process this image - see below...
This is my world,
This is what I work with to help me find answers
for all of you that need help fixing stuff.
To help
GREEN = Ground as in FOIL BOARD Ground (NOT CHASSIS)
Some traces are highlighted to help you decipher, the rest are lined up AS-IS to the original board overlay
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I see what your saying about the voltage appearing at q56, I didn't catch that. I will be definitely looking hard into that area. Then I will be tackling the other things you mentioned. There were some mods done to this radio by previous owner, but all that stuff is long gone. I have already had to repair a couple traces, so maybe I will find more. Thanks
Also, closely check for bad/cold solder joints, they are a common problem in those particular radios. I have so many of those radios come across my bench with odd problems, only to find one or several bad or cold solder joints.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
Don't worry, I haven't dropped this thread, I've given you a lot to think about.
And with the latest graphic, a lot to work from me to help you - so when the voltages aren't right, remember that when a Mod is done, or other work performed - that effort takes away from it being stock, that weakens the foil traces. It makes the radio more prone to failure. The heat makes the foil even more brittle each time you reheat it.
As you work thru this radios board, if you've ever worked on their older Galaxy 3600 series board from Pre-2000 you'll find them to be much heavier duty than the current batches - it's very evident that these newer boards are not as robust as their older counterparts. The plating thickness and phenolic durability is different - almost like comparing Chicago Style DEEP-DISH Pizza to the New York Thin Crust you have in front of you now...
IF you have time - locate the PLL chip - grab it's Date Code - anything past 2000 - they were attempting to reduce pB (Lead) and introduce various alloys using silver to replace it.
So when EX 13 says that Cold Solder Joints - means you will have go look for them - yes, it's a PITA but has to be done to re-check your work and the radios' ability to even stay working past the first power up and first bounce in the mobile. Many radio can pass Quality at the Factory just fine, it's what UPS and FEX EX and the other Whatnot's that handle it afterwards are the ones you worry about - you don't know how bad it gets banged up until it arrives to your doorstep, nearly in pieces.
These boards are part of this consistent challenge to quality control - so to know this board once had mods, means the radio worked, only now you're left figuring out what they did, to undo that, then recreate the original problem and then fix that.
So no, I haven't left, I've got to give you time to go over the work done and look thru the thread and process this information to get the radio working again.
And with the latest graphic, a lot to work from me to help you - so when the voltages aren't right, remember that when a Mod is done, or other work performed - that effort takes away from it being stock, that weakens the foil traces. It makes the radio more prone to failure. The heat makes the foil even more brittle each time you reheat it.
As you work thru this radios board, if you've ever worked on their older Galaxy 3600 series board from Pre-2000 you'll find them to be much heavier duty than the current batches - it's very evident that these newer boards are not as robust as their older counterparts. The plating thickness and phenolic durability is different - almost like comparing Chicago Style DEEP-DISH Pizza to the New York Thin Crust you have in front of you now...
IF you have time - locate the PLL chip - grab it's Date Code - anything past 2000 - they were attempting to reduce pB (Lead) and introduce various alloys using silver to replace it.
So when EX 13 says that Cold Solder Joints - means you will have go look for them - yes, it's a PITA but has to be done to re-check your work and the radios' ability to even stay working past the first power up and first bounce in the mobile. Many radio can pass Quality at the Factory just fine, it's what UPS and FEX EX and the other Whatnot's that handle it afterwards are the ones you worry about - you don't know how bad it gets banged up until it arrives to your doorstep, nearly in pieces.
These boards are part of this consistent challenge to quality control - so to know this board once had mods, means the radio worked, only now you're left figuring out what they did, to undo that, then recreate the original problem and then fix that.
So no, I haven't left, I've got to give you time to go over the work done and look thru the thread and process this information to get the radio working again.
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It's fixed!! Thanks Andy and ext13 as well. So when you pointed out that voltage was magically appearing and disappearing it really got me thinking. I decided to focus on the area that you(andy) had made a line/marker to , the r264 ,265 junction. The wiper of vr14 had correct voltage, ok good. Then end of r264 that connects to vr14 had same voltage but no voltage on other end..hmm. No voltage at r265. Well c234 and r264 solder pads had formed a microscopic bridge. You can figure the rest out from there. Boy do I feel silly now. I really appreciate all the help. This is a great forum. Thanks for putting together all the graphics Andy ,the visual aspect really helped.