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Galaxy radio drift

This Thread is all about the Galaxy DX series of radios. I am a ssb operator. I wanted to figure out if we could lessen or stop the side band drift.

There is a lot of good information shared by others on this thread. The ranger 2950 does not drift on sideband. I compared the ranger circuit to the Circuit in the DX series of radios. the difference between the two circuits is the diode Is a different diode but I don't believe that is playing a part in this. The other difference is Ranger put a 5p capacitor across the two posts of the crystal. This is an old school fix that seems to work. I am on Day 2 with this mod and have been talkin and talkin and no Side Band drift. Keep in mind, my radio is being cooled. So I solved the heating problem first.

So the closest thing to a cure is to put a heatsink on it, or if it is a base, install fans to force fresh air into its case, install cap and realign.

I am going to post here every day or so the status of whether it has started drifting on sideband. It was a two-fold condition or should say was being created by two conditions and this I believe solves the problem.
Ranger did not look for the problem in the circuit. Ranger addressed it with a fix.
 
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Ranger also made their own version model using the same EPT-3600-14x boards and have the same drift problems that any of the DX Galaxy versions have.

Dunno why you used the 2950 as an example, since its microcontroller eliminated many drift problems. That is an apples and oranges comparison. BTW, any of the Galaxy or Ranger radios so equipped with a 3600 chassis not only drifts on SSB, it also drifts on AM and FM as well. But that issue isn't noticed in those modes. The 2950/70 microcontroller eliminates that issue; it is not because of the clarifier circuit.
 
It was the first one that came to mind since I've owned so many of them. I never had a side band drift on my 2950.
Still running the dx959b on Lower 38. With the modification. Still no drift. I'll keep you posted.
 
I deal with Low-Budget - Indie-type of installs...

They don't have the $$$ for ovens and kits or radios that survive nor the environment conducive for it - you have to look at the bigger picture.

Not many have resources available like some one us have been blessed with the knowledge on how to use and understand the process. They just want to get thru the day.

I just use a light bulb on a switch for cold mornings in mobiles - else Base radios - turn on the desk lamp and aim for the case, just let the thing warm up for about 5 minutes. Laugh if you want, but it works.

Heck, even a desk lamp shining down on the case of the radio can help remove the humidity effects and stabilize the parts and their compositions without have to "oven" the Xtal - which still doesn't fix the external controls. Those again are environmental effects affecting (the external) that which has some benefit of stability (the internal) - but is it worth the cost?

I'd rather have the radio act up in warm-up periods, for they are indicators of further problems getting worse. A noisy pot can be cleaned and re-lubed. But component failure? Although moot - at least by observation of the warm-up process, we can gather a lot of information alone in observing the symptoms - for one symptom may indicate a particular part, but is that the part that's is causing the problem? Not in all my experiences, hence the "shotgun" approach I take - not all symptoms are dealing with one part, there are many in the chain to choose from.

But with that out of the way...

I wanted to say, that out of all the drifting issues I have had some across my desk, the biggest culprits are...

Maximum slide - meaning the pot the operator turns, is the one that is "Volted" to buss and to ground with nothing in-between to stop it.

They never realize the effort of the Voltage divider circuit - the potentiometer is placed in the middle of, for the sake of linearity on the front panel control range.

It is so painful at times to see how some radios are so spaghetti-ed on the front panel, to bypass this and go here to get that approach, I've spent hours - if not days, undoing all of it to bring it back to stock, only to find out that somewhere along the way, putting it back to stock fixed the problem and the radios' acting normally again.

How do you charge a guy like that? By the hour? Or just give him a radio they can't do all of what they did to this one you just fixed? Sell the one you just fixed to someone else that will appreciate it for what it is and not mess with it - boy those days are fewer and fewer....if youtube is an indicator.

Anywhoo...

When you guys start talking about "tuning" and stability - there's always the variables yes, but, when the end user decides to "go for broke" - usually winds up making the radio "broke" because they exceeded limitations on voltages.

Varactors, for what they are - are wonderful devices but only exhibit their true reasons as to why we like them, thru a narrow range of voltage. They don't need much current, they're reverse biased so they simply act like a tuning capacitor when presented to a Crystal - which then reacts to that, and we gather that energy and put it elsewhere in the radio to use.

Here's what I'm talking about - a couple of charts some of you may recognized these so I won't bore you but to the rest - what I want you the curious one, to see is how much we have to apply to make the change in tuning that provides the range of band we can tune...

View attachment 24865
View attachment 24866

Look at the highlited in yellow areas, that is a tiny amount of capacitve change for a wide voltage range. The effort only gives you a small amount of capacitive reactance to make the series circuit with the crystal - change it's resonant frequency...

But, that's for Clarifier - we don't want or need a TON OF SLIDE if we were to just tune into someone within the channel itself - so that is why the level of change ratios are so vast compared to say...something you need a PLL to use...
View attachment 24867

It really hope all of you are caring to notice - the following...

The largest range of capacitance is in a small range of voltage - note the slope of this rate.

The greatest change in capacitance is when the voltage to it is less than - not more than, the effective SAFE OPERATIONAL AREA (SOA) of all the parts involved.

The Clarifier is a voltage divider - if we set other FIXED resistance above and below, we can effectively meet the maximum rate of change within a small range of voltage to achieve the adjust slide we want.

The best and most stable clarifiers use the smallest change of capacitance used in the entire range - helping to reduce drift.

PLL circuits can use the maximum rate of change in a small window to obtain their best stability AUTOMATICALLY thru their loops and phase detectors. So large value varactors give you the best ability of the PLL to maintain the frequency it is set to use.
So we need to quit making clarifiers with TONS of slide that get us into stability and warble troubles more than they're worth in slide - due to the constant changes we need to make as an operator to stay on frequency - it is our responsibility to keep us "dialed in" - no one wants to talk to some one that can't stay on frequency.

That was a very good read. Lots of great information thank you. I accept whatever slide is available in a clarifier when I unlock it. My goal is for the group of us talkin on one channel locally can all tune to exactly the same frequency.

:+> Andy <+:
 
A comparison of the two radio types would also show that the 10.24 MHz crystal in the Galaxy radio doesn't drift a lot. My best guess at a reason is that there's no clarifier circuit on the 10.24 crystal in that radio.

The 10.24 crystal in the RCI that DOES have the clarifier circuit covers only a narrow range end-to-end, and does not have ANY inductors in series with the crystal. A narrow tuning range on the clarifier also tends to limit temperature drift.

A clarifier that you can mod to travel one whole channel or more is guaranteed to drift.

Those three slug-tuned inductors placed one at a time in line with the Galaxy radio's clarifier-circuit crystal are necessary for the one-channel-at-a-time PLL that radio uses. But not needed for the fancier PLL in the 2950. The RCI's computer takes care of shifting the PLL up and down to match the carrier crystal frequency when you change modes. That's why you don't see a tuning slug to set the clarifier for each mode, like you see in the Galaxy.

I really think that those slug-tuned trimmer coils in the Galaxy have more to do with the drift issue than the other factors.

You can't very well remove them.

73
 
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I don't believe anyone's going to completely stop the drift on a Galaxy DX radio. However, there are several things we can do that very much minimizes any drift.it's still very much an upgrade to my Galaxy radios.
 
This is one alignment reading on a 959 Galaxy. On this part of the alignment it is only ONE Hz from perfect. I watched it quite a while and it did not drift while I watched. Radio was on for 45 minutes before the alignment was started.
3194-1414632047-7924d902e4edd1ef21c7897cbc75ff09.jpg
 
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Any Galaxy. Shoot DX on it for 2 hours and see if it doesn't get hot as hell. The only cure is a heat sink with a built-in fan. And since I am serious about my dxing and I expect my radio to perform for long periods of time, I need to take it upon myself to make sure that it runs as cool as possible.
 
Had a friend years ago who was a TV and VCR guru. Had a Saturn base that drifted and got on his nerves. He took a part called a PTC thermistor out of a junked camcorder. Its original function was to serve as both heater element and thermostat, in one part. It served to keep the spinning video-head drum warm enough to prevent humidity from condensing on the metal surface of the drum, even if you used it outdoors in cold weather. Or worse, brought it inside from cold weather, to a humid indoor area.

I bugged him for a part number, anything that I could do to identify a source of the thing. He drew a blank, didn't have a parts list for the model he tore down. Didn't have a very good supply of scrapped 8mm camcorders, either.

The trick was that this thing ran from 5 Volts DC. He installed a 3-legged 5-Volt regulator chip on the always-on side of the radio's power supply, feeding to the PTC. Plastered the thermistor to the Saturn's crystal and three trimmer coils. This kept them at a steady 120 or 130 degrees farenheit even with the radio powered off. As the internal temp of the radio would rise while transmitting, the PTC just turned down its internal current to hold the temp of the crystal steady.

He had the only Saturn that wouldn't drift on SSB (much) that I have ever seen.

So long as you kept it plugged into the wall.

73
 

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