• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
  • Click here to find out how to win free radios from Retevis!

Galaxy radio drift

Just to let you folks know, I've not bowed out of this thread, just been busy with some family stuff so while the thread boiled down into a nice thick soup...

One of the many problems I've encountered with "drift" is of course - when the temperature drops - things tend to quit working.

On top of that - there is little that can be provided for the radio - except to take it and put it in a warm room.

Well, that's fine, but another issue crops up and it can be accelerated in the rapidly changing of environment.

As you know, you fill a glass with ice and water on a hot day, the ice melts and the water tastes pretty good after mowing your yard...but there is another event that I'm talking about - Moisture. The Condensate from the air onto the glass that is at a lower temperature - dewpoint. That is a naturally occurring event and adds a measure of instability to the clarifier and it's need to stay constant.

There's more, including the temperature of the external adjustment - the clarifier itself and it's substrate can be affected by two things - the ambient dew point and the temperature. I can't do much about the dewpoint - but what can be done I've seen and it's quite common - you use it every day when you're on SSB so why not apply that to the clarifier as well?

Well, you can, but then, you can't. Why? Because of two things, one it will compensate for thermal - but it can't protect you from humidity - and using the inherent voltage drop affects the amount of voltage the Varactor has to play with - so the reduced slide can annoy some that want to play "Dobie Grey" and "Drift Away" with Uncle Kracker - and literally Drift - Away...

Worse than Playing "Shannon" because Brian Wilsons' Family dog deserves better...

What am I talking about - try Didoes as a means to track thermal across know resistances in the clarifier circuit. But not like you'd think - more like the AB-Biasing scheme to help drop the voltage across the diode sitting out in free air space by the clarifier and watch what happens.

Before I lost my way with CB Tricks - I had added this to the website as a means to help open a discussion about clarifier and tracking...



But, with any clarifier mod, you do have to use something to offset the higher voltage you got from the straight 8 volts - So I put a resistor and a diode in line in series with each other to help them keep "center slot" and found that the Diode not only dropped voltage but helped with tracking the thermal drift issue by allowing the diode to compensate using its voltage drop in ambient temperature versus trying to oven the Xtal and still be unable to keep the radio closer to center slot due to the drift to warmed up extreme range of nearly a half a channel (up to and including 5kHz) which does not help anyone.

So, Larry, you are working a concept I see as - if we can keep things all the same temperature the radio should not drift - or not nearly as bad as --- wait for it --- starting power up and having to wait over 5 minutes to even check to see if the Clarifier is even close to center slot - you can't make too many friends by being a little off - it tends to scare the natives...

I simply did the resistor/diode up as a means to help my XYL and others to continue to use the PC-122 or any radio that I can take the time to do this mod to - and have had some good success with it. I wanted the ex-XYL to be able to - on a moments notice - turn on her radio and be close enough to center slot so that others can work with her in conditions similar to a round table - but we did it for the Sierra Bravo Nets we used to have.

What does this have to do with SSB Bias? Plenty - because the voltage drop you have across the transistor needs to be tracked somehow and modified to keep it from going into Class A or dropping onto Class C - the transition of both classes can be hard on the part as well as the roundtable users ... applying to the clarifier circuit, we are modifying the voltage divider that provides the Varactor with an adjustable voltage to tune-in a range of frequencies. You can use the diode, in several places along the Clarifier circuit in both a Series and Parallel Compensation - both techniques work across a known resistance - say 1K - but that may require the resistor it replaced to be broken into more spots to apply this. So the issue is more of trial and error - you use the diode and resistor is PARALLEL with each other - in series with - old value - changed to new values, to offset insertion losses and keep the balance.

They do this in AGC as well, but they use the "diode voltage drop" as a means to track rapidly changing signal conditions in AM and SSB modes...
View attachment 25069
The above is simply to demonstrate the "parallel" configuration to help describe what I'm talking about.

Using the above method was to track rapidly changing signal conditions yet provide a lag to help the user hear thru the noise before clampling and attenuation occurred by AGC action

In the principle above, we adapt the diode and resistor to provide the drop and the swamping action you apply the mod to offset a known resistance in the divider circuit to provide the voltage drop change that occurs with temperature as a means COMPENSATE the voltage to the varactor as a means to offset the drift.

This process if it can be done at the factory would allow the temperature of the external to be thermally tracked to help keep "center" slot for many users without having to be forced into a re-tuning issue due to extremes in temperature.

The process of conversion for older platforms is not the easy one.

Now the page above in this post, is only a primer I've since gone on with many projects using the concept but also with the AGC tracking as well

So this is where I stand at the moment...
 
Last edited:
Ok, back to you...

Tallman.jpg
I took a quickie snapshot of the post you referenced and re-referenced it so I could get caught up to your original Post #20, which you replied on #146 to which, we are now serving #168 or thereabouts.

Ok, firstly - the Xtal in question is really a timebase oscillator with as shown in your Fig 2 - which if you added more to the story then we wouldn't have to backtrack to the original post I was making referencing the VARACTOR timebase which was already installed and we were using that Xtal.

I just wanted to "gather up the charts" so we can carry it thru this thread...

You raised a great point of making a BASIC REFERENCE to start with, but as with SSB and Xtal filters, we still need to mix the SSB signal's audio side using the AN612 and a 10.69~10.7MHz filter which is already installed and working - again we have limitations.

But you also provided a means to make a timing to set everything to a basic clock - we can use that to run our PLL, IF and Frequency Counter all on that same signal - there's a benefit to this; that once the reference is all the same - the accuracy is far greater versus trying to align several clocks along the hallway as we recover from a power outage and reset them - why do that when we can then use a SINGLE clock reference and send - display - use the information from it to show everyone the timing of "this section" and we only have to worry about the Audio SSB portion coming off the Varactor - that being "That section"..

Brilliant! Hope you didn't mind having me re-post that so others can then take this ball and like Stephen Curry against Lonzo - and let them play hoops with this concept for a while. Even while all the Trash Talking is taking place...​

I don't want to dig too many ditches in this to find us stumbling along trying to apply something to something that won't work well in it's current form without having something of a means to understand where we've been.

Ok, back to that clock stuff. again the concept of single timing is important in any aspect - plus we need it for a KNOWN reference - not unlike a vehicles' reciprocating engine - as long as we keep the timing references right and apply enough in advance for everything we need to keep moving forward - we should be ok. The fewer spots to keep as aspect or known timing sources, the smoother the system will run and the simpler it is to keep aligned.

What throws the wrench in the works is the loops that we need for the timing of one section, and the timing of another and between the two - they really never meet except at the 7310 or SO42. Which - for those in this Galaxy whom may have just popped into this planet - Welcome To Earth, Third Rock From The Sun.

So again, the issue is the Varactor the separate Xtal reference and the oscillator all need to be somehow "Beat Frequencied" Together to make the radio far more functional in alignment....

This is where I'm at ok?
 
Ok, back to you...
I took a quickie snapshot of the post you referenced and re-referenced it so I could get caught up to your original Post #20, which you replied on #146 to which, we are now serving #168 or thereabouts.?
The post #20 was brought in to show the 5 pf cap across the xtal and it's effects on the wave form. The ripple on some of the xtals can cause problems in timing circuits. Nothing more, nothing less.
 
Ok, take that as you wish, you simply - inadvertently - surprisingly - added a new twist to something that is needed in any radio and what you brought into this is something that needs to be considered.

Single timebase references.

And on a secondary note, some of these newer xtals need "sponging" to help smooth out otherwise jittery and unstable results - adding capacitance does smooth out the waveform and depending on how that capacitance is applied either in series or parallel can make a world of difference in the drift characteristic.

You mentioned "Fly Wheel effect" - usually caps are used to ENHANCE that effect - what is your take on this?

The 5pf cap is a standard part on many designs. It is used to stabilize the crystal.
The calibration reference I have has signals that look like this. The capacitor removes the "Fly Wheel action" from the low voltage around the crystal. The following photos are from the vendor I bought one of these from.

This is why I feel it's important to carry the story - not just a site, but your INSIGHT into this - where are you coming from on this?
Are you referring to "Miller effect"? To some young-uns' this is not even a reference (black box theorems) so it's an archaic term, but it bears mentioning because if RF circuits as well and anything with filters - the impact of capacitance is often overlooked unless you work around Radio, Communications or Audio (Music).

Because - instead of showing the "gating noise" (as I call it from the older TTL days) as a ringing effect, the cap removes it so I see it more as a smoothing filter - but again I need to know where you're coming from on this...

You're raising good points...
 
HandyAndy:You mentioned "Fly Wheel effect" - usually caps are used to ENHANCE that effect - what is your take on this?
The caps in a tuned tank circuit it is a desired effect.
I don't even want to reply to the rest of your queriy. I feel you are being argumentative and petty. Even though you see the validity you still feel compelled to argue the points and take off on tangents. You must have had to search to find the "Miller effect."
I had an engineer that worked for me with the same type personality defect.
All of his contemporaries complained. We sat down and had a discussion about him being sanctimonious and unable to "Work and play well with others."
I fired him after 15 minutes of his communication style. He blamed everybody else for his troubles. I told him he needed to calm down and listen to reason, Still he continued to argue. I fired him after he got profane and insulting. You said you lost your way with CBtricks.....
 
That's true I did - there's plenty of evidence there...not ashamed either - I'm human - I don't come with a ton of degrees, PhD's, MBA or ABC's - but it is what makes me - me...

So, not sure of the angry part, but I'm trying to give you credit for the point you make, but maybe not what you made at that time...

SEGUE - Is that post at #171 an indication of what I will find here all the time?
So ... it is an open forum - I guess if you're not happy...

AND NO! It is not to argue, it is to enlighten - if you feel I'm being abrasive -then remember this, I'm at least TRYING making an effort to congeal all the mass of posts dealing with the subject- and I've been wading thru posts filled with attitudes, false pretenses and accusations - and that was over 100 posts of arguing about temperature and frequency - I never denied any factors regarding that - I am looking for open ideas - at least I'm looking at several "layers" of experience here I'd love to tap into - but if others have hardened their hearts and become stiff-necked because of defending their beliefs - I cannot work in that environment - you posted similar results above...

Thank you for helping me - see the light.

It is a very difficult environment you created for someone like me to work in.
 
Let's sum it up.

One camp: Keep it simple, stupid.
Other camp: Let's make a mod to sell to unsuspecting CBers by redesigning a cheap CB radio to amateur specs! But we are not trying to create an amateur radio!

If it does not follow the narrative of "let's make a mod to sell to unsuspecting CBers" it's dismissed.

That about covers it.
 
Let's sum it up.

One camp: Keep it simple, stupid.
Other camp: Let's make a mod to sell to unsuspecting CBers by redesigning a cheap CB radio to amateur specs! But we are not trying to create an amateur radio!

If it does not follow the narrative of "let's make a mod to sell to unsuspecting CBers" it's dismissed.

That about covers it.

You forgot a couple.
1. The fence riders who (a) don't understand what's being discussed or (b) choose to play it safe down the middle.
2. Those who are determined to discredit the designer and his product because of personal reasons that have nothing whatsoever to do with the item's potential or worthiness. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Larry A McClanahan
Just to let you folks know, I've not bowed out of this thread, just been busy with some family stuff so while the thread boiled down into a nice thick soup...

One of the many problems I've encountered with "drift" is of course - when the temperature drops - things tend to quit working.

On top of that - there is little that can be provided for the radio - except to take it and put it in a warm room.

Well, that's fine, but another issue crops up and it can be accelerated in the rapidly changing of environment.

As you know, you fill a glass with ice and water on a hot day, the ice melts and the water tastes pretty good after mowing your yard...but there is another event that I'm talking about - Moisture. The Condensate from the air onto the glass that is at a lower temperature - dewpoint. That is a naturally occurring event and adds a measure of instability to the clarifier and it's need to stay constant.

There's more, including the temperature of the external adjustment - the clarifier itself and it's substrate can be affected by two things - the ambient dew point and the temperature. I can't do much about the dewpoint - but what can be done I've seen and it's quite common - you use it every day when you're on SSB so why not apply that to the clarifier as well?

Well, you can, but then, you can't. Why? Because of two things, one it will compensate for thermal - but it can't protect you from humidity - and using the inherent voltage drop affects the amount of voltage the Varactor has to play with - so the reduced slide can annoy some that want to play "Dobie Grey" and "Drift Away" with Uncle Kracker - and literally Drift - Away...

Worse than Playing "Shannon" because Brian Wilsons' Family dog deserves better...

What am I talking about - try Didoes as a means to track thermal across know resistances in the clarifier circuit. But not like you'd think - more like the AB-Biasing scheme to help drop the voltage across the diode sitting out in free air space by the clarifier and watch what happens.

Before I lost my way with CB Tricks - I had added this to the website as a means to help open a discussion about clarifier and tracking...



But, with any clarifier mod, you do have to use something to offset the higher voltage you got from the straight 8 volts - So I put a resistor and a diode in line in series with each other to help them keep "center slot" and found that the Diode not only dropped voltage but helped with tracking the thermal drift issue by allowing the diode to compensate using its voltage drop in ambient temperature versus trying to oven the Xtal and still be unable to keep the radio closer to center slot due to the drift to warmed up extreme range of nearly a half a channel (up to and including 5kHz) which does not help anyone.

So, Larry, you are working a concept I see as - if we can keep things all the same temperature the radio should not drift - or not nearly as bad as --- wait for it --- starting power up and having to wait over 5 minutes to even check to see if the Clarifier is even close to center slot - you can't make too many friends by being a little off - it tends to scare the natives...

I simply did the resistor/diode up as a means to help my XYL and others to continue to use the PC-122 or any radio that I can take the time to do this mod to - and have had some good success with it. I wanted the ex-XYL to be able to - on a moments notice - turn on her radio and be close enough to center slot so that others can work with her in conditions similar to a round table - but we did it for the Sierra Bravo Nets we used to have.

What does this have to do with SSB Bias? Plenty - because the voltage drop you have across the transistor needs to be tracked somehow and modified to keep it from going into Class A or dropping onto Class C - the transition of both classes can be hard on the part as well as the roundtable users ... applying to the clarifier circuit, we are modifying the voltage divider that provides the Varactor with an adjustable voltage to tune-in a range of frequencies. You can use the diode, in several places along the Clarifier circuit in both a Series and Parallel Compensation - both techniques work across a known resistance - say 1K - but that may require the resistor it replaced to be broken into more spots to apply this. So the issue is more of trial and error - you use the diode and resistor is PARALLEL with each other - in series with - old value - changed to new values, to offset insertion losses and keep the balance.

They do this in AGC as well, but they use the "diode voltage drop" as a means to track rapidly changing signal conditions in AM and SSB modes...
View attachment 25069
The above is simply to demonstrate the "parallel" configuration to help describe what I'm talking about.

Using the above method was to track rapidly changing signal conditions yet provide a lag to help the user hear thru the noise before clampling and attenuation occurred by AGC action

In the principle above, we adapt the diode and resistor to provide the drop and the swamping action you apply the mod to offset a known resistance in the divider circuit to provide the voltage drop change that occurs with temperature as a means COMPENSATE the voltage to the varactor as a means to offset the drift.

This process if it can be done at the factory would allow the temperature of the external to be thermally tracked to help keep "center" slot for many users without having to be forced into a re-tuning issue due to extremes in temperature.

The process of conversion for older platforms is not the easy one.

Now the page above in this post, is only a primer I've since gone on with many projects using the concept but also with the AGC tracking as well

So this is where I stand at the moment...

Damn Andy! Just Damn!
Smoke rolling out of my ears....................................
More than enough information in this thread to keep the tiny hamster (that is my brain) on the wheel for decades!!

Thanks
73's
David
 
Last edited:
You forgot a couple.
1. The fence riders who (a) don't understand what's being discussed or (b) choose to play it safe down the middle.
2. Those who are determined to discredit the designer and his product because of personal reasons that have nothing whatsoever to do with the item's potential or worthiness. ;)

Ah. The "fence riders" that don't understand.
Not that I really get what that is. Enlighten me.

The burden of proof is on the designer. He has not shown proof that it works.
Not a single sliver. Just fancy talk. Even started off with Zener diodes being the culprit.
What we have seen is a slow transition to an "alternate fact"

I don't drink kool-aid. I like proof. As should you.
Despite being asked many, many times to prove that some bunch of potted parts is going to somehow miraculously resolve this.

Or having measurements to prove it.
Again. Let's see the data.
If it's legit I will endorse it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheRealPorkchop
Again. Let's see the data.If it's legit I will endorse it.

Fair enough. (y)

Oh, and I'm one of those fence riders who don't have a good grasp of the topic. About all I've been able to determine is that SSB drift is apparently primarily caused by temperature fluxuations. But I can't speak to it because I've only had two SSB radios--a Browning Golden Eagle Mark III and a Pearce Simpson Simba and I don't recall a drift problem with either one. (n)
But, that was over forty years ago. :D
 
It's all a part of the development process. To prove something works you need a working prototype, if you need proof before starting to develop that prototype it would be impossible to start.

How about we just wait and see what he comes up with before starting the dog pile.
 

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
  • dxBot:
    Greg T has left the room.
  • @ BJ radionut:
    EVAN/Crawdad :love: ...runna pile-up on 6m SSB(y) W4AXW in the air
    +1
  • @ Crawdad:
    One of the few times my tiny station gets heard on 6m!:D
  • @ Galanary:
    anyone out here familiar with the Icom IC-7300 mods