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Just got my brand new Ranger2950Dx
- Thread starter AmericanEagle575
- Start date
Is this a 2nd Batt you are using?? If so I would connect it In parallel with your front battery and use #2awg min. To go from front to back batteries. Also a good battery isolator and a good in line fuse will be needed. Then Use #8-#10awg wire from the 2nd batt to the radio. All your wire can be bought at Best Buy in the car stereo section or from EBay. The reason for larger wire is loss due to length in this case. So the longer the run the bigger I'd go with power. If only 1 battery is being used and it just happens to mount in trunk, use #8-#6awg IMO, or larger. Yes it may be overkill to many, but if you ever want to upgrade you don't have to pull in larger wire next go round. You'll end up spending less doing it right the first time. Again, this is JMHO, as if any of you are like me, just one radio in the mobile isn't going to cut it for real long. Or should I say, you see a new radio come out of the one you always wanted type deal!! You get the picture.
As far as where you terminate the ground, IMO, keep it short as possible and take it to a frame ground. Again, some will disagree and tell you to take both POS and NEG to battery, some say short as possible and to the frame. Either seat bolt or under the dash where steering column comes through is a good spot to ground to for radio ground. Same if adding a 2nd Batt. Keep tie ground lead as short as possible and directly to the frame. Use no-ox on all connections!! And be safe!!
As far as where you terminate the ground, IMO, keep it short as possible and take it to a frame ground. Again, some will disagree and tell you to take both POS and NEG to battery, some say short as possible and to the frame. Either seat bolt or under the dash where steering column comes through is a good spot to ground to for radio ground. Same if adding a 2nd Batt. Keep tie ground lead as short as possible and directly to the frame. Use no-ox on all connections!! And be safe!!
Hey there, no I only have one battery, it just happens to be in a 2008 Chevrolet cobalt LS where they put them at in this model year, only 1 battery.
Got it!! Okay. Then run #8 or #6awg from trunk to radio. You can also purchase an inline fuse and a 20amp fuse should be plenty for now. A glass type single fuse holder from Best Buy in the car stereo dept is where you can still get wire, even by the foot I think from the install dept area. They also make a pass through distribution block as to connect your radio to the larger wire and that can be mounted and concealed as well. This way like I said, if you ever plan on getting a different radio, you already have some large wire and a good setup. Make sure the ground wire used is the same size as the power wire as well. You can buy this at either Best Buy or if you happen to have a West Marine around or any car stereo shop for that matter LOL! And again, I would take the negative to a spot that is termited to the frame itself. Not sure how your vehicle is built, but you don't need to take both leads to the battery, just the positive. There will be disagreement here, so you make your own call, but a good frame ground or seat bolt will work well. Or like I said earlier, under the dash, steering column is good spot as well. The batt has to terminate to frame doesn't it?? So if you do, you'll be tied into the same ground system. Make sense. Like I said. There will be disagreement here or shall I say other opinions and/or thoughts, but for as long as I've been messing about with DC power and vehicles, as long as you are well grounded to the frame at both the negative lead of the battery and what ever device that is being installed, you shouldn't have any issues. JMHO. Be safe and work smart, not hard!! Before you plug that power plug into the radio double check and then check again!! Not hard to mess up with the type connector used on majority of CB/export radios!! I always take a sharpie and mark my + and - signs with a sharpie both above and below the actual stamped signs LOL! Keeps me from messing up though seeing that much!! Anyhow. Sorry for the long a** post. Hope you have fun with the new setup. Let us know how it comes out!!
222DBFL is right on. Go with the heavy 8-10 ga wire. You can add an amp later and not have to worry about the power draw unless you get crazy with the power amp. But I would run both the ground and power wires together. The two wires side by side will counter act the inductance of just the one wire laying next to the car chassis. It will help stop a possible oscillation or ringing problem. Not endorsing any vendor in particular but I did purchase mine here:
http://www.copper.com/cart/Amplifier-Hookup-Kit?search=power cable&description=true&sub_category=true
http://www.copper.com/cart/Amplifier-Hookup-Kit?search=power cable&description=true&sub_category=true
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Ok,quick question, so far I have heard everyone suggest the battery route, I have no desire to run a amp,tried it in the past and was more a pain in the ass to hook up ,didn't really use it that much ,was looking at the fuse block, can I power it up thru safely,I had a Galaxy 88,Ranger 66 that I used the fuse block and never had any problems, could I assume the Ranger2950Dx could be hooked up the same?? I mean if I have to use the battery I will, just trying to keep it simple like my last installs,which all used the fuse box to get power,except my last Ranger 2960JP which was straight to the battery due to having a built-in 150 amp,all my other installs were with the fuse box, thank you for your help, paientence and input!!!!
You might get away with doing it that way, going to the fuse box, but one day you're going to have issues doing this. Trust me here!! Your vehicles internal fuse box is just that for the vehicle!! Add a seperate run of power for your radio and ground it to the frame. It's the correct way to do it. JMHO. Running a seperate power wire for your radio that is, and keeping out of the fuse box of the vehicle. Again, JMHO. A run of #8 or even #6awg from the battery to the radio with a fuse block at the battery and good connection for ground to frame is your best bet IMO. But it's not my radio or my vehicle so all I can do is tell you the way is do it. I the end you'll have to make your own decision about how to run the radios power. Do some reading on the subject you're asking about and it might shed some light as to why I am saying what I am. Good luck and be safe!!
You might get away with doing it that way, going to the fuse box, but one day you're going to have issues doing this. Trust me here!! Your vehicles internal fuse box is just that for the vehicle!! Add a seperate run of power for your radio and ground it to the frame. It's the correct way to do it. JMHO. Running a seperate power wire for your radio that is, and keeping out of the fuse box of the vehicle. Again, JMHO. A run of #8 or even #6awg from the battery to the radio with a fuse block at the battery and good connection for ground to frame is your best bet IMO. But it's not my radio or my vehicle so all I can do is tell you the way is do it. I the end you'll have to make your own decision about how to run the radios power. Do some reading on the subject you're asking about and it might shed some light as to why I am saying what I am. Good luck and be safe!
Save your self.....GO TO THE BATTERY......That way we will NEVER have to hear of you frying your car/radio because your fuse box fried. It's real EZ to just pull some wire, and remember to run that wire in some flex conduit, you can get it when you get your wire. Good luck, you have a nice new rig!
The main reason besides the availability of extra power you get less of a voltage drop when you key up and you will not affect the computer in your car. I have seen cars start to misfire and then shut down. The RF can overload sensitive sensors inputs to the computer and wreak havoc. If the radio draws less than 75 watts you could possibly run it off of the cigarette lighter socket. But the voltage drop and the potential to interfere with the computer are increased. It's just better to hit the battery. I use terminal strips to break out the power for the different items. I don't run amps but I do have some radios that will really punch out a big signal. The terminal strips get installed in locations in which nothing can short them out. I leave the high amp fuses in the power cables and also the standard fuses in the unit power cables. I do a little more with ferrite beads and decoupling capacitors.
Also I do not allow the radio equipment to remain energized while starting or shutting the vehicle off. Inductive kick can kill your radio and amplifiers
Also I do not allow the radio equipment to remain energized while starting or shutting the vehicle off. Inductive kick can kill your radio and amplifiers
one more kick at the cat https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiPvMT9hp3LAhWku4MKHa10Cx0QFgg1MAY&url=http://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm&usg=AFQjCNF6K_FxmBxdZQ58P7ePLMvLRBePHA
and perhaps the BEST information anywhere on the web is here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...g.html&usg=AFQjCNH26x5pZS0nBRe4Y6_BhrFxDhS9rw
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Good morning, well folks I found at Best Buy this: Metra 10awg complete amp kit $ 34.99 includes all I need to complete the radio install, I think it's perfect for my needs since I am only running a Ranger2950Dx and it's a affordable price,any thought's are welcome, again many thanks for all your suggestions and ideas, later and God Bless!!!!
my thoughts are to return the kit from best buy. some of that stuff does not appear to be needed, to go from 2950dx radio all you need is 2 wires long enough to get you to the battery of the same or a thicker gauge than what the radio has. you should install 2 fuses at each of the wires right before the battery, just in case you develop a short (this has happened to me with other accesories-it happens) someone above mentioned placing the wire in a conduit to protect it for that reason.
some end connectors big enough to get them on the battery posts, I like to solder where I hook up extra run of wire to the existing radio wires, but other type of connectors could be used here. you should be able to pick up all of this for a lot cheaper. once you get into the hobby you will have all of this laying around, so you just as well buy a couple things now that you can use the left overs again.
CB=constantly buying and or constantly broke.
enjoy the hobby
some end connectors big enough to get them on the battery posts, I like to solder where I hook up extra run of wire to the existing radio wires, but other type of connectors could be used here. you should be able to pick up all of this for a lot cheaper. once you get into the hobby you will have all of this laying around, so you just as well buy a couple things now that you can use the left overs again.
CB=constantly buying and or constantly broke.
enjoy the hobby