kenworth t680 install.

[phantom309]

did you have to cut or trim the face plate

Yes I had to trim the sides of the face about 1/16 of an inch on both sides. Also had to remove the rails the radio was supposed to fit between but couldn't. 3 screws per rail. I also put some Velcro strips down on the metal plate and bottom of the radio. I've had ZERO issues with movement

 

[qtrstick]

Yes I had to trim the sides of the face about 1/16 of an inch on both sides. Also had to remove the rails the radio was supposed to fit between but couldn't. 3 screws per rail. I also put some Velcro strips down on the metal plate and bottom of the radio. I've had ZERO issues with movement

what did you use to do the trimming

 

[phantom309]

I used a sharp utility razor knife, just kept shaving a little bit off each side till it finally fit. Then I shaved just a tad more to square and clean it up. It was a slow and messy process. Took about 30 minutes maybe a tad longer.

 

[qtrstick]

I used a sharp utility razor knife, just kept shaving a little bit off each side till it finally fit. Then I shaved just a tad more to square and clean it up. It was a slow and messy process. Took about 30 minutes maybe a tad longer.

what about the tray that the radio is suppose to go on do you just not use it

 

[phantom309]

No I removed the tray completely, it is just velcroed to the metal plate.

 

[qtrstick]

No I removed the tray completely, it is just velcroed to the metal plate.

thanks just trying to help a friend mount his connex he was getting ready to drill holes in bottom of the console and mount it . i saw that little light thought that might be a bad idea to cover it still don't know what it's for

 

[qtrstick]

did you run a new coax and was it hard

 

[phantom309]

Yes I ran new coax. Call me at 423-839-3226 way to complicated to explain in print if you are doing this right now.

 

[Burb1442]

Phantom do you have any tips for running the coax ??

 

[Slowmover]

May be getting into a T680. Glad to see this already underway (Radio + Amp).

What’s below is for jdchet

(This thread has 10,000 page views — we know it’s getting read — so I’ll add my best synopsis that you can use THIS thread at Post #25 versus that 579 thread when you feel so moved to link brain-addled drivers to an install).

If for no other reason vaxxcidents are occurring: guys stroking out behind the wheel (any vehicle) and causing more serious accidents than in years past.

The Jab killed four young, healthy British Airways pilots last week.

As a driver you want to be able to divert to another route ASAP when conditions are right for you to do so.

1). Use of Commercial Carriers Road Atlas.
2). Communication with local drivers who know the alternate route possibilities.
3). ETA adjustments using your GPS thereby.

— AVOIDING both WAZE and GOOGLE MAPS as those two will get you into worse problems (slower alternatives) due to four-wheelers.

“Best Radio” has incredibly good ears. Use that to have earliest distant warnings. Pull off and plan diversion (find out if it’ll work). Execute.

.

 

[Slowmover]

J-Rich (posts on Truckers Report CB forum).
T680/880 Custom Coax Install

Here’s a pretty decent video on installing ones own coax (single) on a T880.

— Details on cleaning mirror mount arm Allen-screw grounds.

— Good view of how to remove mirror to (again) clean bolt grounds.

— How coax might be routed (I’m not in favor of running coax + power together); how to remove panels for access.

— Where & How to finish.

Routing with cophase must start from interior to go outwards. Recommend a harness with screw-on FME ends (WILSON; at truckstop).

Cophase can come into body via external routing to arm and using TOP GUN TEC (Bobs CB) T-660 flat two-hole adapter to attach to mirror arm; or, route as shown X2. I intend to run feed-point chokes (would not fit inside arm).

Thise of you curious about big truck installs will find this video short enough (but thorough enough) to get an idea about this part of the install on a big truck.

Assuming this driver ran power to the battery case, he could have made cab entry by his feet thru the air line panel then run it up the A-pillar. (Shorter run in parallel).

Both coax & power in this video would have benefited by flame-resistant split-loom covering to further insulate itself plus avoid potential abrasion.

Like the factory does it (mostly).

While braided strap thru arm to mirror-mount-to-body bolts a good idea, this would ALSO be the best time to run strap across door hinges (2X each door; 4-total).

 

[Slowmover]

EATON BUSSMANN Termination Fuse
(Marine Supply)

Power (part 1)


Power. For clean (noise-free) and stable power with a dual final export (or 29 type single with a KL-203):

— Assuming a T680 with BATT BOX under drivers door step and routing thru air line panel, up A-pillar and across to OEM CB radio tray. Split loom covered and use also FR zip ties to attach power to existing harnesses. (Grommet at air line panel).

Take time once thru to interior. Job takes however long. Might be most of your day (two of my old man days start to finish). Do not be in ANY hurry. Start to finish and hit the road is in breaking down PARTS of the install into bite-size.

A). 10-AWG will handle a 15A load to prevent Voltage dropping below 13V (engine idling) on silent key-up in a 20’ circuit (POS + NEG total combined length).

B). 8-AWG; a 20A draw.

C). 6-AWG; a 25A to 40A draw.

Amperage is nice, watching volt drop is king. Size wiring according to component fuse needs. Plus some more. See component manufacturer data.

This fuse type shown is safest, strongest, easiest, and lowest volt drop with no chance of soldered or crimped fuse holder deterioration.

NEG is shortest possible. Drill up thru curtain track into thick sheet metal shelf to a point clear of plastic trays. (No, no one will notice. Stop by hardware store at fastener specialty drawers and get a rubber plug. Like the other ones in the track).

9/16 bit; #10 sheet screw in 3/8” length with flat + inside/outside star washer. Attach NEG from inside console after dremeling off THICK powder coat. Try for 1’ or so total NEG length. (Shortest; but have to be able to open tray). Do not fuse the ground. Plan this out ahead. It’s big.

You want 105-C wire (cable) with crimped terminations heat-shrunk over ends. Avoid auto parts store and use marine grade tinned copper plus USCG-approved terminations.

Gather supplies as you go along. The total gets “expensive” (relative).
.

 

[Slowmover]

Radio Case Size

Radio too big for tray? Not allowed to drill (make permanent changes)?

3M Dual Lock to underside of overhead console.

But you’ll need to do some serious de-greasing (mold release + dirt since then).

Same for Radio case.

Out of the sun, and best if not driven for a day. Apply strips to each and don’t connect till 12-hours or so. Overnight.
.

 

[Slowmover]

Antennas:

My preference is for:

1). As close to 14’ TTL height as reasonable.
2). Antennas not less than 5’.

On a T680 6’ antennas will work with even the barest attention to roadside tree branches.

—Top Load type

— Skipshooter brand (recommended). American-made and has VG flex qualities. Tough.

That which can get you above the trailer (at all) will be the superior choice in length.

A pair of 6’ SS will run you about $65 + shipping. I have four (4) sets bought separately over the past three years. All arrived undamaged in good packaging.

Also recommend the clear color (doesn’t stand out). Adjustable tips.

— Co-phase is about getting around the trailer (van) as it won’t happen otherwise. Cophase also elongates the signal to front and rear.

Tune carefully (mic gain at zero) and make changes to both sides equally (measured) using an SWR Meter. (Below 2.1:1 is okay, at or under 1.5:1 is time to quit).

With no other changes (stock Radio + coax + power) this will be the biggest improvement.

You should also clean & treat mirror arm mount fastener holes/plate junction as shown in video. (brand new truck or used; then at least annually).

“Ground strap” addition to mirror arm needs to be terminated between coax & antenna stud. The antenna ARM is already grounded at body bolts (not well, but . . ). The strap termination needs to be modified to fit.

Here’s a six-foot (6’) SS pair waiting for the first coat of ReJex to cure. (Reddish effect in real life not noticeable).

All CB antennas are 108” long. A quarter of a frequency wave. Where that physical length isn’t possible, extra wiring or coil is constructed to GET that length. Pic shows that “extra” at top of antenna.

Antennas under 5’ are too compromised, IMO. The compromise to make them shorter quits working (well).

.

 

[Slowmover]

What Radio & Amp?

You saw good coverage in the earliest posts of this thread (not mine)..

1). AM/SSB Radio. Not less than this.

— To fit the tray are many choices. $110 to about $250. I own and would use a GALAXY 979 and a UNIDEN 980. Single-final low-power radios.



2). Amp: RM Italy KL-203 (90W) where the radio has a .5-2.0W deadkey with minimal swing (modulation touched up maybe). $75 + ship. This little amp is easy to use, and power requirements are minimal versus them big ol’ linyeers (who ain’t gonna get out from a company spec truck much better).



— 12V fuse-rating amp. Best to run power yourself. Factory wiring is minimal (and introduces noise).

As a truck driver you may or may not be interested in Sideband operation, today.

Tomorrow, when the SHTF, you’ll want every option you can get in order to communicate cuz your Jesus-phone ain’t gonna answer.

.