kenworth t680 install.

[Slowmover]

That’s wild Slo!!! Never saw a CMF tied into the mirror mount. Glad it works well!! Maybe extend the tape over the threads? If your worried about the sticky residue, wrap that part with Temflex and then tape.

I got that rubber splicing tape. Have to get some small diameter tubing for condensation holes already drilled epoxied in place and turn low side towards wind.

Tape layers and more split loom to come. Fat zip ties.

Remember this all has to come off in a couple months (new truck talked about).

Make the mistakes now so potential new truck is faster done and better finished.

They’re running us hard. Time not really available.

 

[Slowmover]

Am hearing that not heard before: I’ve noticed some radios announce themselves before I ever hear anyone speaking. A high, thin tone you might call a whistle. Quiet, but present. Eventually, (or not) I hear someone speaking.

Distant early warning.

Funniest is the pitch change between two radios as if that were the conversation itself as we approach each other in the dark. No words. But pauses in whistle-tone every so often.

And, there’s overlap before voice predominates. Words, underlined.


And, I may already have mentioned that lightning or thunder no longer roll up/down in crescendo after event over. Lingering, like acoustic hang time. Reverb.

It simply — quickly — stops.

When I first had the DSP Speaker this was a sometimes eeerie phenomenon.

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[Slowmover]

Middle August

Gone longer to do this than I thought.
Have a day or so to do work.

1). With dummy load will get antennas tuned in “best”.

2). With DVM & PEP Meter, get voltage & output to solid numbers (baseline).

3). After running 6-AWG power cable.
Will try the KL-7405 amp.

4). The rest is to take this install to completion. Call it good.

Still summer out there, but not as hot as a couple of weeks ago.

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[Slowmover]

Picked up 40’ 6-AWG (20’ each red & black) to install “more” amplifier (20A fused). I expect this to be too long by about 2’ even after several wraps around my 1/2” ID M-31 snap ferrite.

The fuse tap 8-AWG (above posts) worked fine with the KL-203 (12A fused).

This post is a deviation from the thread (as with some other topics) as am going to run a KL-7405 with the option of being able to run a 30A fused amplifier.

Am going to use same route for power as did JRich in video linked in early post. Didn’t realize then it’s too easy NOT to use.

Using KL-203 does NOT require this work.

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[Slowmover]

Passenger-side (mirror of drivers). Coax re-routed correctly and slack bundled in figure-eight outside cab.

WILSON coax was fed thru same body plug as factory-run coax (pic center).

I used electrical tape to coil coax. You SHOULD zip tie together (I’m running short on them).

As shown is UNDERNEATH decorative panel.

Note: you can see factory path for factory coax up into mirror arm body as well as electrical from UPPER body plug.

If you aren’t going to use external filter or ferrite at antenna feedpoint (and you should) you could otherwise run both coax and braided bond through mirror arm as did JRich in video.

You could also skip the aftermarket mount.

But, why?

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[Slowmover]

Passenger-side buttoned up. Hood still open otherwise visible mirror screws would be covered (overlap).

Be sure you have adequate slack at three locations:

1). In overhead. Should be able to take main end “out” of console. (Tape together first fistful or more past termination).

2). Before finishing pull thru body plug, re-install interior trim pieces. Tape or zip-tie coax to existing wiring.

3). Slack also needed once hood closed. Build figure-eight so that you can “move” the coax that will go over decorative panel.

— Install panel. Close hood (don’t latch). Adjust coax to have some give where hood overlaps panel.


The rest seen here is as before with a slightly better tape job after using scrap split loom over coax and braided bond.

TOP GUN TEC stud needed one thick and two thin bronze thrust bearing washers to hold braided bond tight against PL-259 shell (in lieu of having found a thin jam nut to use).

What I have NOT done is to fold mirror back and be certain the give necessary is present.

Zip tie around filter is in arm recess. Not ideal, but sure is tight. Coax jumper from stud goes BACKWARDS thru arm towards filter.

Zip ties around antenna mount were done just in case mount screws started to back out. They didn’t (good tight thread match).

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[Slowmover]

Once on-road I’ll buy some more zip ties and use as insurance against what you see in last pic.

Edit: Time to finish this at o’dark thirty following morning. APP onto device power line ends, and use POWERWERX PD-75 Buss Bar as distribution.

Didn’t discuss or outline HOW to distribute power previously except to touch on the subject.

With 10-AWG fuse tapped line will need your choice of solution, for:

1). Radio
2). KL-203
3). DSP Speaker

Wire Nuts are unacceptable in mobile.

A 12V Distribution Block is the secure method, and the guideline is to find one that is SMALL and has A COVER as the console interior is not large AND has a good amount of wiring plus gear already sliding around (ease of manufacturing; not with this work expected). Velcro it down, etc.

Take time on research. Marine Supply is my usual first stop (higher quality than generic automotive).


www.k0bg.com (The Mobile Install Guide). See last entry, Wiring & Grounding, on Index page


APP (Anderson Power Poles) as a system — tools & supply — works best for me. Many other automotive applications in which to use them, especially if you expect to do radio installations in several vehicles. Components just plug in, change as desired.

Note: I’ve found it worth the time to use appropriately-sized pieces of split loom + zip ties to encapsulate existing wiring original to the truck for devices in overhead console; to keep that from tangling with radio system power & coax, and to easily “see” what belongs to truck function. It’s a detail, but a very helpful one. Shows good faith about taking care in work performed.

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[Slowmover]

Last Work

In this 7/8-install (next truck gets full treatment), have wound up with the best big truck mobile radio system of my experience. Other drivers may have had more years & miles on more gear used, still others may have had better technical skills to derive the most.

With power straight to BATT (32’ full POS/NEG circuit length) the fuse center noise was bypassed. (Again, with KL-203 amp, the fuse tap power & “noise” are just fine; these comments are about a farther and much more expensive upgrade). That last bit of SNR improvement has made the daytime “almost” as quiet as night in some situations.

There’s more for the signal to get through in a metro mid-afternoon versus a night-time rural setting, but to hear layers of conversation is phenomenal. Not just a bunch of competing voices where we’d back down RF Gain and adjust up some Squelch to focus on what’s closer.

Have to do a mic comparison test and still have last round of antenna tuning to undergo.

For someone willing to upgrade radio audio filtration (WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO DSP CLEARSPEECH external speaker), and to add filtration at all three coax ends (PALOMAR ENGINEER), plus Mix-31 ferrites on power + speaker audio, into an aftermarket 7’ antenna pair thru aftermarket coax,

the change from factory-spec is nothing short of revelatory. Phenomenal.

Step-by-step, adding gear as budget allows, can produce a big truck radio system better than any you’ve ever heard. And others will hear you!

Hear & Get Heard

 

[Slowmover]

Got antennas as close as I could this morning. Was at 1.4:1 after tip was shortened across 40.

Am back to RK-56 Mic purchased with radio.

About as good as it’s gonna get.

As this was a temporary install, some OCD measures will wait till next t680.

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[ForestRunner98]

That’s great!

I hear you on the OCD stuff....trust me. LOL

 

[Slowmover]

Lease company maintenance shop opened up some blank work orders and are shipping parts and setting dates to get this 400k 2019 Kenworth back closer to new when I went by there today.

One doesn’t always want a new truck as new is not a guarantee of being a reliable runner. This one is a good driver. No quirks.

See what happens when it’s a SIDE MIC radio install (ha!).

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