kenworth t680 install.

[Slowmover]

Early August Update:

Back at this again:

At home yard doing a 34-reset.

1). Swap WILSON antenna studs for better-design TOP GUN TEC (Bobs CB).

2. Replace 90-degree connector for AMPHENOL and add another thin bronze washer.

— This trio of changes made for a tighter fit (compression of RF Bond against PL-259 shell).

3. Get antenna tip length to EXACT SAME length each (still need to dial down SWR as far as an R-S Meter shows me. So, will do that after other gear installed into coax)..

4). Re-wrap with a single run of 88 until I can find some UHF double female connectors (to install line isolators). Split loom after that over splicing tape and 88 all the way into cab.

— Now to make fuse-tap power line for RM ITALY KL-203 amp. (Radio & Speaker to remain on OEM binding posts power.)

Addition: Looks like Circuit R14 (20A—Spare ACC SW1-2) is the one to use.

— Circuit R7 (10A) is CB/VHF.

Both are bottom of panel.

(R14) is five from right-hand edge by count. Next to large case Idle Timer Relay.

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[Slowmover]

Bottom row for both fused circuits.

— CB #7
— ACC #14

(Cab fuse access panel behind clutch pedal).

Bussman ATC Add-A-Circuit from auto parts chain store.

Am using a 15A & 20A fuse in circuit tap.
Circuit rated for 20A.

KL-203 fused at 12A.

— Have used KL-203 in several trucks with radio, speaker and amp running off single 15A circuit for long months of use. (YMMV).

— Here, am dividing radio/speaker to OEM 10A CB circuit, but the amp onto a separate 15A circuit.

If nothing else, voltage drop at DK should improve (be reduced; meaning better performance & less strain). As in above post, this attempt is to simplify the power take-off for an AM/SSB CB (not Export) plus baby amp.

10-AWG zip-cord POS to run up A-pillar to overhead console. Just have to figure out where to attach NEG for amp circuit (solid steel “shelf” framing above windshield). Also need negative ground for double RF Bond of Bandpass Filter.

A bigger amp — which would not fit inside the console — would want a heavier AWG to run to BATT box under drivers door (6-AWG likeliest) in order to service a 20 or 30A box. The rule of “no permanent changes to truck” becomes a problem when routing 6-AWG to overhead (everything hidden as with OEM). 6-AWG might not be heavy enough depending on routing: POS run WILL be in excess of 19-feet. No more than 1/2-V drop at DK is the goal.

— 6-AWG will run up A-pillar. Forget trying to get 4-AWG that route. (IMO, more than 150W isn’t needed, anyway). Amp can be 50-150W, but a dual final 50W Export just won’t get out as far as DSP audio can “hear” in a company-spec fleet truck where the antenna system is all new (my experience in this thread; to date).

Thus:

Fairly simple coax replacement + new antenna mounts and an easily installed power run for baby KL-203 amp is the overall t680 Upgrade Plan where an AM/SSB single-final radio is installed (plus DSP Speaker).

“Hear, and Get Heard”, needs DSP + 100W or so once past critical complete antenna system upgrades for great overall performance in my experience.

Overcoming the deficiencies of the other mans radio rig is the upgrade goal.

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[Slowmover]

NOTE on Truck Power: there are those who claim using ferrites on 12VDC won’t reduce introduced noise.

This is not my experience in this truck as wrapping the radio power cord multiple turns in a big MIX 31 Ferrite resulted in reduced noise.

This note appended to above that you cut amp power cord long enough to itself get wrapped several times (more = better) on an M31 snap-on ferrite.

“Baby’s fist”, as to wrap size (if you don’t have ferrite). A bit larger than. Maybe, wrap it around mic head the turns you want. Tape off or zip-tie.

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[Slowmover]

Here’s a photo set of a recently purchased RM ITALY KL-203 amp to compare with a 2021 purchased V4 PRESIDENT LINCOLN II.

In the overhead console behind the snap-in panel is quite a bit of room for an amp this size.

That space also is used for the GPS truck locator to the right, and internal speaker plus air line control for highway horn to the left of the radio tray. (Some light gauge wiring bundles). To the left is where I’ll put amp.

You’ll need a short coax jumper to the transceiver and cannot bungle it up (pinch, etc).

As the radio shown is installed in the slide-out tray per factory spec, taking the radio in/out becomes a three-hand job. Ideally, you won’t need to, but it’s best to secure the amp to the shelf with some Velcro.

Thus, a jumper of 1’-3’ in length will work IF (big “if”) you can be assured that — once all is closed — the coax is okay to function.

So, it’s not getting radio rig in & out that’s a problem, it’s coax viability.

I use a 90-degree fitting to run jumper from radio to back of amp as once tray closed there isn’t room BEHIND the radio for the amp.

Just fit everything loosely till all is out of the way. I sometimes use 1/2” split loom on the truck wiring to keep it from tangling up with radio power & coax.

Also:

The amp has an AM or SSB operation switch on the front panel. I might listen to Sideband while on the road, but I’m not planning to TX. If I change my mind and want to switch between AM & SSB while driving, I’ll pull back carpet in shelf above radio and use a hole cutter to get two (2) coax plus power line thru. (Glue carpet back when I get out of truck).

This complete set of upgrades to a t680 is meant to be minimal and temporary. Here is one where a hidden hole is cut. Size of your finger width.

Sideband might be the asset you most seriously need one day.

With amp faced to the left its E-Z to access its controls.

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[Slowmover]

Amp Power + Coax Note:

Installation at fuse panel and run up the A-pillar is E-Z. (Don’t cut wire to length till very end of this part of project).

— Secure wire with zip tie (snug, not tight) to existing wiring over same route.

Now you’ll have to make a decision on WHERE to mount amp, and WHETHER to secure it with Velcro; as:

1). Moving radio tray in/out may cause you to find it easier to leave amp “loose” in order to disconnect radio, etc.

2). Power plus main coax AND coax jumper can’t be bungled once radio tray back “in”.

— I recommend you remove radio from tray and simulate its being slid backwards into place to get main coax plus jumper plus all power lines into a state they’ll be “safe” for long-term operation.

With slack in those, see if you can’t tape them into place and then re-install radio tray in/out a few times . . then disassemble to see if it worked.

In short, the biggest headaches (and heartaches we won’t mention) will have to do with keeping ALL LINES (every type) in good order.

You also have the option of NOT using the faceplate (or even the tray) if you’ll set things up that way. It can be disassembled partially or wholly.

It would make everything easier to remove faceplate & tray, but maybe not appealing to see.

You could also purchase a second faceplate ($40) and cut/carve to your hearts content to make things easier.

Take your time and think it through.
Experiment at this portion of upgrade.

DX Engineering was my source for zip cord & jumper. (Trying out the rubber splice tape under Super 88). Zip cord is positive & negative joined such that they can be pulled apart with ease.

That’s a well-used jumper that’s been part of at least five (5) big truck projects. Buy only quality.

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[Slowmover]

Motorvation just ain’t an August attribute. That the parking lot never cools off OR it’s that a nap just always sounds better.

Not helped that I need four (4) UHF double female adaptors; a non-truckstop item. And a piece of stiff wire.

That’d get me to slip the clutch. Re-pull the coax past console and past lower outer body panel. Button up all the loose panels. Install antenna feedpoint isolators. Finish amp power.

For the want of a nail, a shoe was lost . . .

 

[Slowmover]

Anyone used A1 CB Shop at Walton, KY? (Just south of Cincinnati).

Will likely use the Blue Beacon Truck Wash tomorrow, both are “at” the Flying J.

PL259 double male (not female) coax adapters needed.

 

[Slowmover]

Found parts & supply needed.

Now, it’d be nice to have some cool mornings to get it in place.

 

[Slowmover]

INSTALL (3) COAX FILTERS

Short Coax Jumpers were the solution to getting the PALOMAR Line Isolators (Coax Filters; Antenna end of coax) to work with the transceiver-mounted one (thanks, fourstringburn). Three coax filters (CMNF-series) on a Cophase Antenna System. This filter pair of twins is mounted to truck mirror arms.

— Originally wasn’t going to post about these in this thread, but they’re new to my use in the course of this company-truck installation.

Result in use after two days is that by plugging in a Galaxy AM/SSB radio there’s next to no noise (hiss) to accompany typical operation. (With DSP Speaker in use).

Contrast this to a fixed location base station: He’s able to isolate noise sources and treat as necessary. But as truck drivers we’re constantly on the go with the radios physical location ever-changing. We both have the atmospheric problems to work through (and big truck-related noise sources their own set of problems).

Might be you just threw these on your truck:

1). On a bad day
2). At a bad location
3). Didn’t work out the controls of components to accentuate the potential gains.

— That’s why this aspect was included in this thread. Do they work, or not? Plus that any further comments of mine about this t680 Radio System includes their use.


Functional Effect

With the three (3) filters installed, if one turns up the radio high enough to include a bunch of hiss with no one speaking on-air — as “some hiss is necessary”, right? — ones ears get blown off when they do start speaking in a rural area (metro areas are noisier).

This is NOT “typical” for mobile. One always has that hiss if he wants to capture the distant signals while underway it seems. The hiss is minimized by application of some Squelch and backing off RF Gain slightly (find the compromise). Etc. Not ideal, and adjusting controls while underway is 12-15X daily in a 5-600/mile trip gets old.

Last two days, Squelch is not in use, and RF Gain is at Max. Have ANL (not NB) engaged for sound quality. (Left controls alone; radio volume versus amplified speaker volume a separate subject).


RADIO CHANGE

This other radio may not be the performer that is the PRESIDENT Lincoln in use till now, but it’s easier to control (see post above about using a 979) and I believe is a better choice for truck drivers. Menu-driven not great as can’t be looking at a screen versus turning knobs/switches by touch (eyes on the road).

Power install at fuse box of power line yet to come. Galaxy turned down to 1.5W DK to work with RM Italy amp once that is in-line. (And got all but passenger-side coax put away).

Most of the radio use (98%) is AM. SSB may get more attention to drop that percentage, but AM performance is the thing in a big truck (gets precedence).


FILTER ADDITION

With the Ham Radio Junior Lincoln replaced by a true old-style CB Radio (non-digital), the coax filters at the three ends of a Cophase Harness pretty well eliminates the wears-you-down amount of hiss (hash) which accompanies maximum signal gain in my experience.(Non-digital is already more quiet than digital; one has to understand the experience of each)


That said:

**This the quietest big truck radio I’ve had in 25-years **


Conditions apply (not a 100% hash reduction), but as a noise abatement tool for the antenna system, it’s a success thus far. (Remember, DSP Speaker is part of Radio audio).

— I can crank in Squelch plus back down RF Gain to eliminate hash, but there’s no advantage to so doing either as “listenability” is concerned, or as signal capture (audio) is concerned.

Hiss went from foreground to background. (We’ve cut off the spikes; gone from a torrential downpour to a light rain).

— So understand this exception: I can wind up parked where ambient noise is HIGH. And need to reduce the capture distance with Gain & Squelch if I want to hear anything at all.

The fixed location base station may be “parked” in a noisy area, but he has “more” to work with. Versus, in an hour or a day, the lower-performance mobile antenna truck will drive away.

Keep this in mind as you research radio noise fix problems. A big truck mobile antenna system is not the equivalent of a fixed base antenna system. Do they work? Yes. For both. Do they work for big trucks? Yes. With mobile restrictions & advantages understood.

— It’s a big change while underway. This is now a hellacious company-spec fleet truck antenna system. It’s ABOVE a well-sorted large car system (I can hear what they can’t).

I’ve written it and I stated it aloud. Am standing by it: the next 100,000 big truck drivers EXPERIENCED with above-average CB Radio have no idea this performance is possible.


In short:

DSP Speaker & Coax Filters are applying Ham Radio noise reduction solutions to 11-Meter Mobile.

DIY is researching the use of ferrites to build ones own tuned circuits at each coax-end versus higher expense of custom-built as used here.

See those threads.

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[Slowmover]

Does Performance Matter?

Let me put it this way: The better your rig, the more you’ll hear.

The more you hear, the better your understanding.

With that better understanding (spiritual), the more you NEED will come to you.

Mere information becomes knowledge as you parse these problems on-air with other men on the same spiritual plane.

Have you then the wisdom to use mans’ most powerful tool?

Radio is in real time. Nothing virtual. Matter-of-fact. Truck driving just gives it a beveled edge. (“Here I am, Lord”).


Put that in your pipe and smoke it.


Addition:

Yesterday ran the WTTP, and just now finished the VORT. Two tests of genuine import.

The Western Tennesse Test Prodedure: whereby the nations busiest airwaves on IH-40 weren’t simply “clear” on AM-19, they were crystalline in yesterday’s morning hours. Dialect by County was easily registered.

Virginia Overnight Rural Test: Dead silent on IH-81 past midnight till sunrise when without words being spoken. (Thunder & Lightning didn’t overwhelm filters, either). There almost wasn’t a distance limit to ones ears.
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[Eldorado828]

With that better understanding (spiritual), the more you NEED will come to you.

Mere information becomes knowledge as you parse these problems on-air with other men on the same spiritual plane.

Have you then the wisdom to use mans’ most powerful tool?

Radio is in real time. Nothing virtual. Matter-of-fact. Truck driving just gives it a beveled edge. (“Here I am, Lord”).


Put that in your pipe and smoke it.

.

No doubt!

 

[Slowmover]

No doubt!

Surprised me once I realized that dynamic was in effect. (Sobering).


Finished the power install waiting to get empty. ATC fuse tap slides right in Slot #14 once spare fuse below it is moved.

Need to tune & test antennas separately and as a system. Finally got a dummy load and a PEP meter (Daiwa CN-501). Make it GTG versus, “yeah, it’ll be okay”.

Radio + Amp peaked 160W plus on the bench with about 1.5W DK. 100W average is what I’m expecting. Will dial back mic gain as needed.

Audio was clear or clean enough across another radio receiver while on bench. Nothing exciting. Nothing “wrong”. Using a new RK-56 to start.

As much as possible the basic gear ought to replicate what any driver might choose.

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[Slowmover]

Had to be sure it worked (coax filters at feedpoint) before weatherproofing. Make it better streamlined, integrated and proofed against rock strikes in days to come.

Does it work?

Boy, and Howdy!!

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[Slowmover]

On IH-66 on the way into D.C. this morning.
Foot down and speaker UP.

Not many diversionary routes with promise. But ready to start the trade-offs 30-miles out from the turn towards Tysons Corners. Had to get into Maryland a ways.

IH70 too far OOR. IH64 is impossible anymore.

This far out might catch some in-town regulars BS’ng. (Did). No news is good news.

Ain’t got the big diesel power, Mr Night Thumper. Only got organizational skill and the intuition lent by Radio to make right choices.

One chance.

An 0800 appointment. Pulled up at guard shack at 0736. Backed to door just before 8.

Started hundreds of miles out. No parking within 100-miles (that I’d use).

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[ForestRunner98]

That’s wild Slo!!! Never saw a CMF tied into the mirror mount. Glad it works well!! Maybe extend the tape over the threads? If your worried about the sticky residue, wrap that part with Temflex and then tape.