MOBILE INSTALL: 579 Peterbilt

[Eldorado828]

The gear is one thing.

How goes the Installation?

Is what matters.

Tools & Supply!!

I feel your pain especially on these newer trucks. Never had big issues on the older t800 or w900, plenty of room for about any radio and amplifier, the factory coax and antenna mounts were sufficient when paired to a good antenna...

Can't say that now, like you I'm still a ways away from a complete satisfactory installation.

 

[Slowmover]

Took apart the stack again, and re-ordered:

G99v2
To
Palomar 500 filter
To
RM ITALY KL203p
To
Morgan Systems 11-Meter Bandpass
To
MFJ 945e Mobile Tuner
To
Palomar 1500 filter
To
Co-phase Wilson RG8X Coax w/2-ea FT-240-31 toroids.
To
Wilson 2000’ antennas

Lowest SWR yet with near-max inductance on tuner (same position), and capacitance same at both controls.

8W “in” is now near 90W Forward at about 1.2-SWR. Lowest yet.

An hour past dusk had a local running a mobile into an antenna on a tower at 175’ (24) Air Miles Distant.

Said I was hitting him CLEARLY
at S-3 (Mic Gain was half-closed on Astatic 636L).

Given I’m parked in a rural area, but surrounded by other big trucks AND he’s “behind” me, I’m happy to go to bed on that note.

 

[Handy Andy]

Good night...Don't forget to put out the sign...

 

[Slowmover]

I feel your pain especially on these newer trucks. Never had big issues on the older t800 or w900, plenty of room for about any radio and amplifier, the factory coax and antenna mounts were sufficient when paired to a good antenna...

Can't say that now, like you I'm still a ways away from a complete satisfactory installation.

I “think” a dipole pair is going to HAVE to be tried (as I can’t run 102”s off the mirror bases as on a Freightshajer.

Next is what I’d say to anyone with 680/880:

You have a decided advantage with the T680 mirror-arm mounts. I’d have 7’ Skipshooters on there pronto!

“Too tall” isn’t a problem to prove the rest of the systems. That $60 is cheap medicine!! Run shorter ones if you have to, but prove it with the big ones. (Or 102”, whatever’s cheapest & handiest).

The 500 & 411cb filters worth your $$, IMO.

I’m using hard connections at present with those. Amp sitting “up” on a pair of gladhand gaskets to ensure no droop. Those devices on input and output.

Run you a coax jumper to the dash. Same with power. Just to “see” what works with 7’ or 9’ antennas while parked.

How to make that work going down the road a DIFFERENT problem set.

.

 

[Slowmover]

Good night...Don't forget to put out the sign...

The Señorita Problem? Addressed that in the South of the Border thread.

.

 

[jdchet]

View attachment 33830

My friend at PALOMAR ENGINEERS had to acquire a non-stock-Number ferrite for my 12V/120V NORCOLD 45 refrigerator/freezer a couple of years ago when last I used it (previous Pete had a built-in VITRIFIGO) as he was out of the catalog item.

In the “new model” 2018 Cascadia I was running, I literally couldn’t use the transceiver when the compressor cycled ON. DSP or no DSP speaker.

Power was run to BATT + at the fuse box main. Other filters tried. Etc.

The monster was worth every penny. I have to listen for cyclic noise now.

This time I have to run a 12V WILSON yellow extension cord about six feet, but all the transceiver power and coax are up front (for now, ha!). The same situation as last time (except didn’t need extension).

From radio power to the reefer power cord the separation distance was at least (5’). The radio itself up high. Didn’t matter.

There is a few inches of power line to either end. Most of it wrapped on toroid.

PALOMAR ENGINEERS DCCF-3
12V version
3” diameter interior dimension
$44.95

I was happy to leave a positive review among (50) others.

How you like my leather-topped workbench? Non-slip courtesy
100% Arabica + Islay’s finest.
.

Do you think on of these would help with my cheapo 120v fridge?

JD

 

[Slowmover]

Worth a try — IF — noise description is similar.

My bunk heater, my APU or running the engine all add noise. But that NORCOLD took the cake.

 

[jdchet]

Worth a try — IF — noise description is similar.

My bunk heater, my APU or running the engine all add noise. But that NORCOLD took the cake.

As soon as the compressor kicks on, s-5 to s-7 noise level on AM.
Also have nasty s-5 to s-7 schmutz on SSB from inverter!
Would love to change out inverter(Cheap Cobra) to a pure sine wave, but don't think the company, or my wallet are going to be too keen on that!
Going to check a couple of other things to narrow down the noise...i.e.common mode, etc. Maybe one those filters your using might help out, depending on what I find. Might just get a remote for the inverter and shut it off when I want to use SSB.
Started looking through this thread yesterday and learned a lot through your endeavors!

JD

 

[Slowmover]

(For others reading along also)

What brand tractor? Using factory mount location, power, and OEM coax?

1). Where’s the NEG GRND for your radio? (is where I’d start).

A). If it’s the factory-supplied CB RADIO Circuit (from 10-15A at the fuse panel), no question it’ll pick up that noise.

B). But first: rule out coax by removing from radio. Engage the named devices. Test.

C). It’s possible noise is both thru coax and power. Is there a battery kill switch?

2). A test using a really long jumper to truck battery or separate battery altogether. GRND to chassis. (I used an existing bolt to install NEG).

3). Inverter and fridge MAY NOT be properly grounded. See manuals online and find out. Might be bolted to metal, but that metal may itself not be well-grounded.

— I’m suggesting to anyone they do some testing before spending. “Isolation” also includes pulling fuses. Find the noisy items.

The Palomar Engineers website has plenty to chew on in tech articles and products. Let Alan Applegate — K0BG website — be the guide, and use P-E as a reference.

Finding the noise sources is biggest (after running oversize power for fused POS to Batt ).

The “closest” NEG ground will be quietest. I haven’t done it yet as cab isn't RF bonded the way we’d want, and MAYBE isn’t 12V-bonded perhaps HOW we’d want (assume firewall good, but overhead?). (Factory runs both CB POS + NEG wiring to fuse panel).

I’m happy with 12V noise abatement — so far — as coax-induced noise is still the most prominent problem.

The NORCOLD was unbearable. But that toroid was $50.

.

 

[jdchet]

Tried a toroid on the fridge plug and it helped some. Noise gets better when I disconnect the outside of the coax. Common mode noise? Next step is better coax. Using truck stop stuff now. Just picked up some RG-8X with connectors from DX Engineering for a possible base setup I'm considering. Seems like real good cable. They have a good selection and are just 10 miles from the house. I'm trying to resist going too crazy because I know if I go all out and get it perfect I'll get moved out of the truck! BTW it's a 2016 Volvo VNL.

JD

 

[Slowmover]

Coax center-pin in place but shield removed (unscrewed) is less noisy? (Truck on or off?).

I “think” VNL Coax runs to a splitter in lower dash. I’d bypass that and remove one factory antenna (cover opening) to run a mirror-mount.

—Just ease the coax out the window with a way to cover opening without crushing it.

1). An FT240-61 ferrite at antenna-feed point with (8) turns RG58.
(“CMC Mobile Choke” thread).
2). Palomar Engineers CMNF-500 (or similar) at radio end.
3). Clean power bypassing fuse box.
4). RF Bond mirror arms and door hinges. (alligator clips)

Just set-up a way to try this (similar) without worrying about installing it to run the road. A rough-in to test.

If you spend on mobile gear, then your personal vehicle or house can use whatever you don’t use in big truck.

Start a thread, if you want.

.

 

[jdchet]

Coax center-pin in place but shield removed (unscrewed) is less noisy? (Truck on or off?).

I “think” VNL Coax runs to a splitter in lower dash. I’d bypass that and remove one factory antenna (cover opening) to run a mirror-mount.

—Just ease the coax out the window with a way to cover opening without crushing it.

1). An FT240-61 ferrite at antenna-feed point with (8) turns RG58.
(“CMC Mobile Choke” thread).
2). Palomar Engineers CMNF-500 (or similar) at radio end.
3). Clean power bypassing fuse box.
4). RF Bond mirror arms and door hinges. (alligator clips)

Just set-up a way to try this (similar) without worrying about installing it to run the road. A rough-in to test.

If you spend on mobile gear, then your personal vehicle or house can use whatever you don’t use in big truck.

Start a thread, if you want.

.

Not running OEM antenna system. I have a 5 foot Firestick 2 on a screw in bird perch on driver's door. Running truck stop RG-8 9 foot coax. The coax is going to get changed very soon. Probably RG-8 or something a little bigger? Will use DX Engineering coax.
Going to try your suggestions as I get time and money. I've been resisting running power direct to batteries, but I think I'm going to have to get over that! However the radio is quiet as a mouse with no coax attached.
Again, thanks for your help!

JD

 

[Slowmover]

Sitting still here on IH81N just into West Virginia, loudest interference is my WILSON device charger with 3-4 items drawing power.

I unplug it and NO NOISE at all.

Wrap power with an FT240-61 PLIS snap-on Mix 31 and noise is 8/10s gone.




If no noise from your 12V, leave it alone.

 

[Slowmover]

@Slowmover - Sounds like you're making a FARADAY cage.

Might be your safest option to keep RF where it belongs.

Don't need it wandering around the Trucks' harnesses looking for a place to return.

View attachment 39293​

It's not the first time I've seen this. I've seen HVAC hangers and Load braces used for not just holding the radio equipment but in BEHIND the console "glovebox" compartment as a means to offer a bar for counterpoise...

Use whatever works for you - Best of luck.

Caught the story of your friend.

Glad to know you spread the "love of Radio" around like that.

Hope it works out...

I didn’t ignore this suggestion, but until now hadn’t seen my way clear to it.

The “surgery” to install that is the hang-up.

No getting around the poor RF ground (as a way of problem expression).

As before, each of the antenna mounts has a good amount of metal inside & out relative to size.

And there’s a nice 1’ woven strap connecting the inner portion to cab structural metal (thick sheet).

But it’s not “enough”.

A collapsing shirt-hanger bar with ends as Handy Andy shows in the linked post from several months ago is an excellent bet re size and proposed function.

I’m going to again see if I can’t separate the overhead console shelf/cubbies from the front fascia to get access to the interior-side of the antenna mounts.

If I can, that’d be pretty well as far as one could go with the stock mounts,

given also an RF/CMC choke at the antenna feed-point at each side.

I’m also (different project; earlier posts) going to try fuel tank brackets to mount dipole antennas off the rear exterior fascia.

.

 

[Slowmover]

Post #195


Re-worked the three cabling runs (Coax, Power, RF Ground) this morning before starting.

The rats nest of embarrassment is now consolidated with the 411cb Filter & Tuner disconnected from Ground. There’s a bit more static/noise (I think).

And outward conditions have been good for RX/TX (see my post #3014 of today in the 11-Meter Quiet Thread; this post is footnote to that), so the “sensitivity” of putting those back to Ground ought to be illuminating. Great radios and conditions up here in eastern Pennsylvania.

Engine & APU off, I’m at 1.5-3S noise parked in a lot between other trucks. Interstate Highway intersection with plenty around (though not a truck stop). I can kick in the KL203p PreAmplifier and not get higher than 7-S noise”.

I’m off the main road and down in a cleft, so not much to hear as hills block much. (Wrote this post to make it a reference for later).


EDIT: Above changes to 5-S at 03:46 with businesses closed and pre-amp turned on. Without pre-amp it’s less than 1-S registered.

All trucks are silent. No APUS heard either. Had a looping noise earlier (up & down).

Just picked up a faint conversation 9-miles out

.