I second that request, sounds interesting and seems it is a dual polarity quad in the description.
Yes please if you can make a diagram or if you still have the antenna a picture would be great thanks.
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Outdoor Loop
- Thread starter HomerBB
- Start date
I second that request, sounds interesting and seems it is a dual polarity quad in the description.
Yes please if you can make a diagram or if you still have the antenna a picture would be great thanks.
ya thats real close. where did that come from? i guess i wasnt the first to think of it
i wish i could but for some pos windows reason i lost the driver for the card reader and cant upload pics. ill have to by a new reader because i cant find the card reader driver cd
Everyone was right. It is the matching system I was wanting an illustration of.
The 2el quad is now 37' to the boom.
The spacing on a new aluminum boom is 80". It seems to have a tighter beamwidth than it did at 74", my last spacing.
The 2el quad is now 37' to the boom.
The spacing on a new aluminum boom is 80". It seems to have a tighter beamwidth than it did at 74", my last spacing.
ya thats real close. where did that come from? i guess i wasnt the first to think of it
i wish i could but for some pos windows reason i lost the driver for the card reader and cant upload pics. ill have to by a new reader because i cant find the card reader driver cd
:blink: Too bad you can't show us any evidence of your work or design.
For a long time I've made an effort to study this matching idea, and I have some opinions about how it works. Maybe you can give us some more details of your ideas, how this thing works, dimensions, or other details. There are several things that make this matcher and antenna really unique from any other I've seen or heard of. I'm curious if you can describe some of those features?
if i get a new card reader in a few days ill take some pics of the boom with some of the insulaters still on it but it looks alot like your pics. where did you get those pics?
i think ill build a 5 el instead of putting the 3 el back up
i just looked at a sig eng back around 1988 and saw there match and wondered if it needed the ground side or if i could just do a single wire feed for each polarization using the boom for the ground so i tried it and it worked. im not sure whats going on in it as far as current and voltage nodes but id sure like to know. the odd thing is it works in the horiz polarization when using the wire going to the side not the bottom so that feed system must move the current 90 degrees
You're right and thanks for giving some credit to Signal Engineering.
It is true the polarities are opposite form those of a traditional current fed quad with insulator. These buggers are voltage fed antennas and the full wavelength radiating wire is one continuous wire with no insulators.
The two wire setup you see on the two element model is because the short boom is not long enough to balance the 1/4 feeder wire connected to the full wave continuous radiator wire. Each radiator wire uses no insulator at the feeder and radiator connection (port). This unique design allows dual polarity to work with a single and continuous radiator wire. This system also allows each feeder port (quad wire connection to feeder) to be transparent when not energized, thus polarity switching is possible using two feed lines. Of course we have to assume the construction, resonance, and tuning are all correct or else we might see sparks or smoke.
so thats from a sig eng 2 el? i looked at there 4 el when i decided to try it without the ground wire and just use a L bracket from the so239 to the boom
im starting my home built gainmaster this week. making it all with 213 which is good for 5kv. i have this problem, i look at a design and say 'i bet thats an important exact detail' then i build it ballpark close and it usually works just as good if not a little better. im going to build this to put 1000 am swinging to 1600 throiugh it to see if i can burn it or if it will handle it. i dont see why i cant just replace the 1.9kv rg303 with 213 on the oem gainmaster since 213 handles 5kv and the capacitance is within 95% of the 303 so ill just cut the 213 4.5% shorter. its the choke coil that is going to be the real chalenge
im starting my home built gainmaster this week. making it all with 213 which is good for 5kv. i have this problem, i look at a design and say 'i bet thats an important exact detail' then i build it ballpark close and it usually works just as good if not a little better. im going to build this to put 1000 am swinging to 1600 throiugh it to see if i can burn it or if it will handle it. i dont see why i cant just replace the 1.9kv rg303 with 213 on the oem gainmaster since 213 handles 5kv and the capacitance is within 95% of the 303 so ill just cut the 213 4.5% shorter. its the choke coil that is going to be the real chalenge
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Nope NB, the image I posted earlier is not the 2 element Superhawk model. That model uses two wires in parallel for each polarity, because the boom is too short. See attached. The ground side of the 2 element antenna uses one of the wires for the ground side of the circuit and is floating with open ends.
What you saw in the post I made earlier uses only 1 wire for each polarity. Feed point B is for vertical and A is for horizontal in all SE quad models, which is the opposite of the typical current fed Quad antenna.
The shield and center conductors for each feed line are made into a short pig tails. Center conductor is attached along the brass stub wires and the shield wire is attached close by on the adjacent boom. This setup provides for proper tuning point using small hose clamps. So, the brass stub wires provide the tuning range necessary and support the center side of the feed line connection.
The feeder wires are also bent outward near the driven element and this bending provides for some impedance transformation nearer to 50 ohms back at the coax connection. IMO, the overall lengths of these feeders are a bit inductive (long) and with this bend in the feeder wires...a suitable match is attainable.
Good luck on the GM idea using 213. If that choke doesn't work perfectly, I don't think the antenna will provide anywhere near similar results. The size alone will be a problem for resonance, and you won't be able to wind that coax even close to what the GM is using. I don't believe you will be able to count on a loose tolerance design to sneak by on this one. For me, the GM design is pure genius, but with that said, I don't believe it's good enough of an advantage to try and remake it, to where it'll shut down channel 6 or bend your needle.
View attachment SE Superhawk.pdf
yeah i was wondering about that 12 foot or so feeder and wondered if i shoudl add more metal to the spreader just up from the boom before it turns to fiberglass to extend the ground more for a balanced line effect but i didnt have any real issues in pattern or swr.
was that maybe from a hygain biggun? ive never seen one of those up c;lose but i thing they used two wires so probably not.
homer if your talking about the boom i use 2 inch irigation pipe for the 3 el and 3 inch for the 5 el. i by it localy for about $3-$4 a foot
was that maybe from a hygain biggun? ive never seen one of those up c;lose but i thing they used two wires so probably not.
homer if your talking about the boom i use 2 inch irigation pipe for the 3 el and 3 inch for the 5 el. i by it localy for about $3-$4 a foot
oops sorry homer.
i'm probably going to use a 1 3/8 inch closet rod inside gray pvc for strength and table saw it in half so i can run a chanel down the middle on the router table for the coax then glue the 2 halves back together.
the top half will probably be aluminum tubing with some kind of top hat. i wish somebody knew if the red oem coax was 50 75 or 90 ohm and the vf. that would sure help speed up the process
i'm probably going to use a 1 3/8 inch closet rod inside gray pvc for strength and table saw it in half so i can run a chanel down the middle on the router table for the coax then glue the 2 halves back together.
the top half will probably be aluminum tubing with some kind of top hat. i wish somebody knew if the red oem coax was 50 75 or 90 ohm and the vf. that would sure help speed up the process
Homer/NB, I think of the GM design as somewhat simple looking, but very technical in its function and design. It is not like a coil or gamma match.
The GM basically uses several complicated and technical functions in its design and operations, that will make such success...a bit different than duplicating one of the physical all aluminum CB antennas you guys make from scratch...that amazes me. Maybe the GM would be easy to duplicate, once the components, dimensions, and construction items are all proof tested, measured, and assembled correctly.
I never say never though.