Mobile Roof Puck Mount

[Redbeard U812]

Okay. There’s something to it.
But . . . I don’t want take that much ADVIL.
Thirty years is just that. (Now, where are those grandsons).

Thx

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Try some expanded metal. It's got more surface area. Can be put up in small sections. Stiff not flimsy.

 

[Slowmover]

Try some expanded metal. It's got more surface area. Can be put up in small sections. Stiff not flimsy.

Ha! Shoulda thought of that as I’ve been considering it for a partial bellypan (aerodynamic resistance reduction). What I’ve come across is that it is “enough” of a surface for winds to stay on the side presented.

Was unloading that monster space this afternoon — time to reorganize gear — and have also been thinking of carpeting on underside just to dress it up. Need a lighting kit as well. A row of LEDS down each side.

The original owner (HVAC service contractor out of Wichita Falls) installed it with bolts. Drilled thru top rails. What fun it was years ago to replace those in the heat with a PROPER selection of stainless in Grade 5 or some such. 10 of them?

Had a shop once ask me if it was well-secured. Showed him. No more Qs about raising the front end quite high.

I noticed yesterday the gasket on the bed rail is toast (Imagine that after 16-years of Texas summers). I’m tired of the MOPAR plastic bed liner (knee pads a requirement), but it’s like new. LINE-X not in present budget. (Nor is the HD bed-mount tool chest up against front of bed and sliding gear rack I’ve wanted).

So the underside of the topper presents a do-able and affordable project.

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[Slowmover]

As I’m too new to be “new” to HAM, a Q just occurred to me:

1). Are folks running portable stations off the pickup tailgate? I’ve barely looked at articles on contesting. Was thinking that it’s not hard to run coax thru the back of the cab (pressure vents) and then I can use cable glands to enter the pickup bed thru the topper.

Given the cab roof as antenna location for the present, what coax types? If an all -mode radio (if I have that right) or something with less capability. More than one isn’t a hindrance. I can coil things up behind back seats for eventual connection.

Assume one radio & antenna at a time.

2) Your thoughts?

My son likely to take this farther than me, I’d just like this Dodge to be easy to use. (New power already being planned for a pull to the hitch receiver; travel trailer battery charging at a higher rate. 220A alternator plus better batteries, etc. High idle switch already enabled).

If anyone has an article squirreled away (particulars) it’d be great to have something to start with for planning.

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[Redbeard U812]

Slow,

Have read about screwdriver antenna. Off rear bumper. There are some pictures out there of full timers travelling with ham equipment. Some have used the ladder on travel trailer to mount antenna. I built a cargo rack out of 1x1 sq tubing and mounted it up top. Building a removable base to install center of rack. Chain links along top rail for tie downs for guys. A set of aluminum brackets can be easily made to install side of camper for removable telescopic mast. Check this site for telescoping tubing. Fiberglass.

https://mgs4u.com

Have to order some spreaders for the 11m cubical quad I'm plannin to build.

The mind is limitless....the world is "my" playground and everyone else is just in it

 

[Slowmover]

Yes. On that subject (screwdriver) I’ve read some as Alien Applegate has plenty on his site. Scorpion and Hi-Q have interesting sites. Fourstringburn has quite a few good comments & observations about his big truck mobile rig so equipped.

I was getting my head around using expanded metal, a carpet cover and likely gluing in standoffs for one or more coax runs to tailgate. To facilitate any use of two roof mounts in place; near future. Power is already designed.

So, the future is more likely that type of antenna used on the Silver Streak. A roof mount layover. A far future effort, so to speak. (See the Bluebird Wanderlodge on K0BG)

Being able to harness the Cummins as a power plant will take more work. There are some hydraulic gensets (as used on fire equipment, etc). Makes more sense to me to put the big stuff in the trailer. Shore power (50A campground) or what a truck engine could do are to be explored.

Parked at a residence with greater ampacity available is the other.

Moving a travel trailer around not much of a challenge despite the combined rig length (RV maximum) 63’.

Not that a screwdriver on the truck is any bad idea. It’s just not first in my mind at present.

Much appreciate your thoughts, thanks for them.

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[Redbeard U812]

You could buy a 4x8 sheet of aluminum diamond plate to cover. Sure would reflect those strips of led lighting.

Or.....

Black and white tile.....hehehe!

I bought a PowerMax pm3 100 amp converter to run my N2.

 

[Mudfoot]

You'll be disappointed with the Larsen NMO-27. I run a Larsen NMO for 10/11 meters, but I use The NMO-30 coil, 3 inch spring and W640 whip. The whip is 64", but will cut down a good bit. Much better performance over the NMO-27 and has better bandwidth.

 

[Slowmover]

You'll be disappointed with the Larsen NMO-27. I run a Larsen NMO for 10/11 meters, but I use The NMO-30 coil, 3 inch spring and W640 whip. The whip is 64", but will cut down a good bit. Much better performance over the NMO-27 and has better bandwidth.

Thanks. A shorter antenna was the idea. The -27 a placeholder. I’ll keep what you’ve got as the reference.

 

[Mudfoot]

I have a NMO-27. I like the looks of it. It was very finicky to tune. I read where many others had similar issues. Of course, both iterations are limited to 200 watts.

 

[2NC995]

The chassis punch is a really smart idea...and one I’m not sure I’ve read before.

At first I thought why...as step drills and hole saws are so common.

But...one of the biggest issues with a roof mount (especially on a new-ish vehicle) is controlling all the metal shavings, which find a way into every crack and crevice only to rust in short order, and destroy the clear coat and paint.

Chassis punch gets around all that, and at the end of the day is worth every penny.

I like it.

 

[Mudfoot]

Yes, those little metal bits are like cancer cells. I only use chassis punches. The ones I have are quite vintage and are high quality and make a nice clean cut. Still have to drill and deal with swarf . Mine is a very old Greenlee.

 

[Slowmover]

The chassis punch is a really smart idea...and one I’m not sure I’ve read before.

At first I thought why...as step drills and hole saws are so common.

But...one of the biggest issues with a roof mount (especially on a new-ish vehicle) is controlling all the metal shavings, which find a way into every crack and crevice only to rust in short order, and destroy the clear coat and paint.

Chassis punch gets around all that, and at the end of the day is worth every penny.

I like it.

I had long ago bookmarked the Hougen Rota-Cut, as Unibits are way past ability for what should be a VERY clean cut. De-burring shouldn’t be required.

LARSEN makes a bit with replaceable cutter.

The GREENLEE came up in discussion on (IIRC), both eHam and eLightbar. Also in reviews on AMAZON.

It also looks like a better tool to use with my trailer.

Hopefully easy to use . . . wish me luck (Ha!).


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[Slowmover]

I have a NMO-27. I like the looks of it. It was very finicky to tune. I read where many others had similar issues. Of course, both iterations are limited to 200 watts.

There are times I’m sure my interest will be mainly in what’s right around me. Thus a “short” antenna fits the bill. Less concern about overhead clearance. A basic Uniden installed. A KL203 maybe.

A 5’ on my roof is 11’.

I have others even taller to try. (A 102” is nearing 14’ clearance). No matter the type or brand, they stand out a lot more. The President TEXAS sitting here will cross 12’.

An NMO-27 is near 10’
The low key aspect of its appearance is the appeal. Easy enough for me to toss in back seat. That starts getting harder as length goes up.

I expect that the NMO may have more time in use as most of my driving is D/FW, and not much of that in any event as I’m gone most of the time. An “always present” radio. Good to go.

But there are times when the thought of the sound of that Cummins coming alive is enough to make me alter plans to take a longer route. Brew up a thermos. Check the weather.

And install the big iron, inside & out . . .

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[Slowmover]

Swarf. Had to look it up.

“Forsooth, dids’t thou swoon over swarf?

At 16-years I’m not too picky about a mess. A painters drop cloth taped & draped should do it.

 

[22racer]

Looks familiar. Can I ask how your radios are mounted inside with the stick shift? Mine is practically unreachable if I am in motion. Also, have you experienced injector noise ?

edit: sorry for the terrible pics.