Mobile Roof Puck Mount

[Slowmover]

Looks familiar. Can I ask how your radios are mounted inside with the stick shift? Mine is practically unreachable if I am in motion. Also, have you experienced injector noise ?

edit: sorry for the terrible pics.

As in first post: years of Velcro-strapped radio to console arm rest.

The GENO’S GARAGE (Brolin) Mount is the standard when one has the manual transmission. Not so great for me as it’s guaranteed I will sooner rather than later spill coffee on it. (Radio aligned with seat cushion edges; but ahead of lower console).

The other type — mount which uses passenger-side edge of shifter-surround — I don’t currently see a supplier. (What your pics show).

So, I don’t know. Will probably find a way to Frankenstein the Geno’s Mount in the second location. Fabricate. What you have is about as good as it gets for what’s on offer.

In the meantime I’ll step up to using the TAC COMM TRC-2 radio cases I now have and secure them in the passenger seat; raised & angled (as I have in the Peterbilt).

I’ve looked at seat-bolt mounts for laptops (Ram, Havis, Gamber-Johnson, etc), but price has been a drawback along with restrictions on passenger seating. Plus that radio gear weighs/masses more.

My “guess” is that that approach will — like the starboard Mount — require a fair amount of fab. I can re-angle the shifter towards the driver a bit to help this.

Remember as you think through this type option that many LEO, EMS, Fire, Utility and other vehicles using this sort of gear have the passenger-side airbag turned off.

The back of the console atop the driveshaft tunnel seems to be the single best option so far as “secure” is concerned.

The only other mounts of interest to me have been where the overhead console is removed to install a large (Galaxy 99v2) sized radio in its place. This is attractive in some ways except I don’t want to lose the electronic readout (which could be re-fabbed to fit otherwise).

STEEL HORSE and some others have made a “shelf” to fit across the whole of the upper headliner/windshield edge, but not really for the Dodge I have. Again, would have to take something made for another application and “fabricate”.

The shelf has quite a lot to recommend it. Simplifies where to mount accessory gear (amp, speaker, etc), not just one or more radios.

Had any of these been halfway acceptable (“easy”) I’d have had something back in 2007.

With an antenna mount for a “big” antenna, it’s more motivation. I also noticed a welding shop has opened a short distance from here, so with what my trailer needs and now this problem, maybe can come up with something better.

(I’m not ever going to build in-dash. Double-din retrofit plates are made, but dash interior in Texas is not worth that heat problem to me)

.

 

[Slowmover]

I’ve not ever noticed injector noise.
My 305/555 Cummins is an early HPCR (high-pressure, common rail). Have you disconnected coax to determine noise source that or thru power?

The FSM has a schematic of Dodge Truck grounds. All would need to be gone through. All horizontal metal needs extra attention in bonding (hood, bed, exhaust) first.

I found a bookmarked site this morning I’d forgotten about that has some decent attitude to work with re big trucks:

Noise Suppression by Jim K6Tex
www.N9GQR.com

Plenty there on where to place ferrites (and how to search).

Of course, the Bible
www.K0BG.com

And
www.w8nji.com

These last two make a point of using chassis NEG ground next to vehicle BATT ground.

And, assuming 20’ total run (both direction):

8-AWG would be my choice for power over the 10-AWG recommended for a 99v2 10A draw for 3% voltage drop in
ANCOR 8/2 Flat Safety Duplex (also their terminations, flame-resistant split loom, heat-shrink, etc)

Contributor fourstringburn runs radios in big trucks and very likely has insights in his posts.

.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

View attachment 32517

The victim.

An ‘04 Triple Nickle CTD (Cummins TurboDiesel) with the mans’ trans.

Nearing a quarter-million. Stock, but for road performance anti-roll bar changes (after a Peterbilt, it’s my diesel Corvette) with a bit more to come along that line to further enhance towing. A 1T, but with IFS plus rack & pinion. 2WD, 8’ bed.

Started life as a business vehicle, now it’s my garage for what I don’t want in the Silver Streak (background). As 24-MPG Highway is my Solo planning number, and 15-MPG Towing, it’s a great vehicle.

I’ve had a few sits-on-the-center-console Radio setups as where to mount is sure different than 1974.

Giant antenna mag mounts, hood lip mounts, etc, have been used, but as I’m going to keep the LEER-brand composite topper, a bed mount antenna is out.

I’ve worked my way thru the Undertaker museum certification course on mobile AM antennas, so that end is covered except one.

1). The selection is of 5’ plus antennas extends to 102”. But I’d also like to run a Larsen NMO-27.

— I know there are adaptors both directions. But, quality? (Opek doesn’t give me tingles).

— So, before I get to roof cutting next week with a Greenlee Chassis Punch ordered, I also need to order from BREEDLOVE MACHINE a 3/8-24 mount. Or?

— Any thoughts generally, and any on being able to swap in an NMO Mount Larsen — with an adaptor— on occasion?

— I’m not averse to more than one hole (the Larsen isn’t any priority) so a separate NMO Mount is fine. A future job.

Radios will be the modern Uniden digital series (880, 885, 980), President McKinley or Lincoln. Plus a grab bag of Galaxy (979, 99v2, maybe a 95T). The truck is an AM/SSB platform till further notice. From 4W to dual finals to outboard amp.

Whatever I get in the future (for big truck, travel trailer or pickup) gets installed and tested here. Any type or description (a Yaesu t450d is waiting it’s turn).

There’s no true “base station” for me, as it were. My gear will always be “mobile” in a sense (even if someday it’s not considered mobile or portable).

So until some receiver or transceiver for which I’ve earned licensure to TX/RX, the pickup MAY be part of testing. Even if driven away from trailer to get reports.

So, first hole & first mount . . .

How would you proceed?

(Thx for your consideration).

.

Breadlove all the way,
Some place on here are old photos. put it on the roof in front of your 3rd brake light. ran a sp 5000, and ss 102/
BOND everything.
Good Fun.

 

[Slowmover]

Breadlove all the way,
Some place on here are old photos. put it on the roof in front of your 3rd brake light. ran a sp 5000, and ss 102/
BOND everything.
Good Fun.

I was thinking roof center for the BM Mount. NMO behind it nearer 3rd brake light; same centerline. (Truck is a Quadcab with 8’ bed).

Did you do some testing that to the rear of the measured roof
dead-center was better?

.

 

[22racer]

The 99v2 in my picture is using the standard export mount included with it in the box, using long self tapping sheet metal screws. They are below the plastic console. They go through the carpet to the steel trans tunnel.

my truck is also an early 04 305 Cummins. I got some new reading to do now.

 

[Slowmover]

Have had this over twenty years. For sale at Bobs CB as:

WORKMAN #LPAD
SuperStar Launchpad
$74.95

Nice HD stud as shown.
Allen set screw on underside.

I’ll use a:

PROCOMM - JBC930SS
HD Stud w/ Allen Set Screw
$19.95 as a Wilson stud at truckstops.

As I can’t currently find my preferred TopGunTec pair (similar appearance)

Most retailers carrying this (3) 5” mag mount shown indicate 5-6’ antennas plus 102” whips.

I do know it’s hard as heck to remove once in place. Can’t just drop it onto roof, have to tip it over once centerpoint known. Have never seen it move.

I’ll get the Texan assembled and mounted. Need to go back thru 12V power in truck first. Check some BATT & PRIMARY grounds.

Idea is to try for some before and after impressions with (mainly) this antenna plus a 7’ Skipshooter and a 102” (both new or near new like the Tex) versus the near future BREEDLOVE Mount.

Son comes back from the undisclosed other-side-of-the-planet location this next week so maybe I can tear him away to test the ROBYN as Base Station against this and his Toyo SUV for a few hours.

Weather decent again so I’ll get the window-mount Midland antenna set on trailer glass today or tomorrow (short distance campground radio).

“Test” will be a Fort Worth Nature Preserve parking lot downhill and 2.2 air-miles SE. (I’m on the hills edge). Honest-to-God line of sight. And an open field at that end.

.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

I was thinking roof center for the BM Mount. NMO behind it nearer 3rd brake light; same centerline. (Truck is a Quadcab with 8’ bed).

Did you do some testing that to the rear of the measured roof
dead-center was better?

.

There is an old thread from afew years back with photos on my ram crew cab (09).
I did a lot of work with my mfj259, a lot of bonding and questioning here.
yes it tested best for me, at 25, 500, and 1kw.

 

[Slowmover]

There is an old thread from afew years back with photos on my ram crew cab (09).
I did a lot of work with my mfj259, a lot of bonding and questioning here.
yes it tested best for me, at 25, 500, and 1kw.

I’m usually good with Search. But no luck in finding your old truck (or new one). Mines an ‘04 Quadcab 2500 with 8’ bed. 163” WB. Yours also a longbed?

Tell about using copper plate (4-parts), if you would.

By the way, your posts on the Yaesu Ft450d helped sell me on one (and fourstringburn). Thx.

.

 

[Slowmover]

Spent last two days (nice weather) on roof to replace a powered roof vent. Tomorrow starts rain and I have plenty to do inside. Not up to climbing that ladder again to wash the rig, so it’s time (instead) to remove the back seat to gain access to a cab vent on the back wall or a hole in floor by which to run coax up the back of the cab.

The days I’ve spent re-organizing all my gear/tools/supplies means (ha!) I’ve also found a few items that should be of help.

The PRESIDENT instructions recommend under 13’ total length. For that I’d have to splice a few together.

Instead I’ll live dangerously and use some WILSON 18’ Super Mini-8 Coaxial Cable (how package reads). A PL-259 and FME set of connectors.

I’m thinking I’ll leave this coax permanently looped behind seat in the event I someday need to use a mag mount with 50-ohm coax (past this temporary setup).

Now, to find some unused split loom.

.

 

[2NC995]

The PRESIDENT instructions recommend under 13’ total length.

I’d like to know exactly how the come up with that recommendation...perhaps it means something if using their mag mount with RG58 coax. No idea, but I think they’re crazy.

Mine is on a puck now...but still has RF issues with short coax. Running it with 18’ of RG213 now (as a bandaid until - or if - I resolve that).

As far as routing, mine (‘05 1500 and ‘18 2500) have plugs under the back seat that come out right above the frame.

I wish they had glands at the back of the cab, like they do at the front wall of the bed.

 

[Slowmover]

I used plastic three-part O-ring sealed glands on my Peterbilt project to run 2-AWG thru the air line firewall panel. Bought a box off of Amazon. Multiple sizes.

As I’d rather avoid having the coax travel underneath the truck, the back wall cab vent is the choice. Just a pain to get to first time.

Videos online.

 

[2NC995]

As I’d rather avoid having the coax travel underneath the truck, the back wall cab vent is the choice. Just a pain to get to first time.

Videos online.

I had to take a quick look on the new model, and I’ll be damned if I can see anything back there. I’ll have to check out the videos...good to know.

 

[Recon]

You'll be disappointed with the Larsen NMO-27. I run a Larsen NMO for 10/11 meters, but I use The NMO-30 coil, 3 inch spring and W640 whip. The whip is 64", but will cut down a good bit. Much better performance over the NMO-27 and has better bandwidth.

Curious question. What do you think would happen if I swapped-out the NMO27 coil with a NMO30 coil and kept the same 46-1/4" length antenna mast?

 

[Recon]

I have a NMO-27. I like the looks of it. It was very finicky to tune. I read where many others had similar issues. Of course, both iterations are limited to 200 watts.

Finicky? I would say so! I'm done playing around with the SWR on my NMO-27. About ten-minutes ago I finished with my last attempt of trimming the antenna and the best SWR measurements I can get are; Ch. 1 = 1.2:1, Ch. 20 = 1.0:1 and Ch. 40 = 1.4:1.Considering that I monitor and talk mostly on Ch. 19 AM in my truck, I am satisfied with what I have.

 

[Recon]

I have a NMO-27. I like the looks of it. It was very finicky to tune. I read where many others had similar issues. Of course, both iterations are limited to 200 watts.

FYI
Quote from the Pulse / Larsen Low Band Antenna Tuning Instructions.
" The cutting charts provided below are provided as a guide of required whip lengths to tune an antenna to a particular frequency. You will get different results due to variations in vehicle geometry, mounting location on the vehicle and type of mount. Start with the whip longer than what is specified in the cutting chart and trim to achieve the lowest VSWR or reflected power over the desired operating band. It may not be possible to obtain less than 1.5:1 VSWR or less than 4% reflected power for some vehicle/mounting configurations."
Considering the type of antenna mount I have and the (not ideal) location of the antenna, I consider myself to be fortunate to have the acceptable VSWR measurements that I have with the NMO-27.