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Short Mobile CB Antenna Advice

Foldover... I know it's not what you wanted to work with in freezing temperatures or when you have to act quickly in a thunderstorm of downpour...But in a pinch - it saves from otherwise using a quick disconnect...

Firstly - this isn't a sale pitch - it's simply my own words and experiences here...

Which quick-disconnect? As there are several "types"

One uses a tang...or two tangs = One Tong?

From Walmart...Online
QuickTwintang.png
The above has some limitations - note the amount of metal "exposed" from the our ferrule and the "stud" showing underneath - this may work for quick align types of antennas that use "flared" or otherwise somewhat angled or directional radial design (top-hat inverted discone) but there is little room for "torque" to pass along the base of the ferrule to the stud so you may find this mount flying off in your rear view mirror along the highway if you use anything too heavy - either by height or by wind-loading - it can pop off by passing over the tangs if the bending of the ferrule starts to pry it away from the tangs.

Another is more length (longer mating shaft ferrule) which places more of the torque along the shaft of the sleeve and it's mate...

It also has only one tang, but note the mating surface is spread out over a larger part of the antenna adapter.QuickSingletang.jpg
Firestik has one too K1A...
QuickFirestik.jpg

I personally use the one above and you can find it thru Firestik antennas as a hardened stainless steel one = well worth the price for durability and corrosion resistance.

This one uses a SOLID ferrule and has a machined notch and matching tang in a spring loaded (like the others above) but this differs in that the Tensile strength on the spring to base of the mount (stud) is quite high so it takes considerable effort to remove but it offers a large range of antennas of 3/8th-24" thread that it can handle.

Hustler makes one too...
QuickHustler.jpg



Notice the matching or mating surfaces and the level of machining - more complicated but handles torque across the base of the ferrule to the stud -the machined tang hook combo offers the better place to transfer torque or rotation - this lets the stud and ferrule handle the loading - it simply allows for the attachment and spring loaded downward force - all the rest of the stress is transferred to the outer ferrule to stud.

So fold over is ok, but if you can do a quick disconnect - out of sight is out of mind.

Hope this option - gives you several more ways to fix your problem.
 
Foldover... I know it's not what you wanted to work with in freezing temperatures or when you have to act quickly in a thunderstorm of downpour...But in a pinch - it saves from otherwise using a quick disconnect...

Firstly - this isn't a sale pitch - it's simply my own words and experiences here...

Which quick-disconnect? As there are several "types"

One uses a tang...or two tangs = One Tong?

From Walmart...Online
View attachment 26424
The above has some limitations - note the amount of metal "exposed" from the our ferrule and the "stud" showing underneath - this may work for quick align types of antennas that use "flared" or otherwise somewhat angled or directional radial design (top-hat inverted discone) but there is little room for "torque" to pass along the base of the ferrule to the stud so you may find this mount flying off in your rear view mirror along the highway if you use anything too heavy - either by height or by wind-loading - it can pop off by passing over the tangs if the bending of the ferrule starts to pry it away from the tangs.

Another is more length (longer mating shaft ferrule) which places more of the torque along the shaft of the sleeve and it's mate...

It also has only one tang, but note the mating surface is spread out over a larger part of the antenna adapter.View attachment 26425
Firestik has one too K1A...
View attachment 26427

I personally use the one above and you can find it thru Firestik antennas as a hardened stainless steel one = well worth the price for durability and corrosion resistance.

This one uses a SOLID ferrule and has a machined notch and matching tang in a spring loaded (like the others above) but this differs in that the Tensile strength on the spring to base of the mount (stud) is quite high so it takes considerable effort to remove but it offers a large range of antennas of 3/8th-24" thread that it can handle.

Hustler makes one too...
View attachment 26428



Notice the matching or mating surfaces and the level of machining - more complicated but handles torque across the base of the ferrule to the stud -the machined tang hook combo offers the better place to transfer torque or rotation - this lets the stud and ferrule handle the loading - it simply allows for the attachment and spring loaded downward force - all the rest of the stress is transferred to the outer ferrule to stud.

So fold over is ok, but if you can do a quick disconnect - out of sight is out of mind.

Hope this option - gives you several more ways to fix your problem.

I think I'd rather try a foldover as with a quick disconnect I really don't like the tang or spring types and the screw type would be almost the same as taking it down. Plus not to sure how they will do with a predator 10k in strength. I was hoping for a decent short antenna for around town and to the doctors we go to have garages for the winter. Wasn't really going to use it for skip or anything. Just wanted some ideas on the best 3ft but I am reading there really isn't any lol.
 
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3 Foot?

Well, with skip and noise rolling like it does, you'd be lucky if the block you live on - would even hear you on any given day.

Length of travel?

The Driveway? You'd be fine.

A mile? No...

A football field - yes, mostly.

Now, equate that to drive times on a freeway.

A minute to warn - no, but you'd at least hear them warning for what's up ahead.

30 seconds? Less time than it takes to get to the next yardstick , you're out of their receive. You'd hear them but not you...

Up the Off ramp to the bridge is about as far as a real working signal you can get to be heard over typical skip noise...

That's how I'd relate the 3-foot - I know, I used one due to convenience and only as needed for DIRECT eye-to-eye sight. (Due mostly to surveillance and fox-hunts)

So - ok on the foldover - Hustler has several types for that concept. Just it will make it awkward for "fold down" is quite visible. I offered the Quick disconnect option for only the reason that they'd may or may not see the stud mount - but the antenna is stowed away - out of sight of prying eyes or predators looking for an easy target.

I Wish you well - good luck in your endeavor.
 
Lil' Will only good for about 300 watts but will cover from 26.905-27.455 if centered on
27.205.
yes my lil wil is centered,i had to trim some off the stinger.now when i key my mic i get good reports on am and greater reports on ssb,peaked tuned bearcat 980. Pushing 25 watts pep i talk to friends 50 miles on ssb.am the usual 6 to 10 miles.however the next persons milage may vary,oh my lil wil is an early 1 so newer might not be as good.
 
There used to be a type of antenna that used a long bottom load about 12" long.

Also is similar to what some would call - a Tiger Antenna - twin wire wound - as in two separate wires running up the winds of the shaft - supposedly to improve the surface area and the bandwidth. Came in both Top load whip and bottom load like you'd see above (without the Puffed Rice)

If you've ever dealt with Hot-Rod Fiberlgass or the Francis Amazer antenna - they use a similar concept of multi-wire of different AWG # size - run up inside the fiberglass sheath and provided a level of performance due to their construction - that was unique to their brand.

There is a company called ProComm in Illinois that still offers these (CitizensBand)...now they come in 4-wire (Quad wound) - PDF attached...
 

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First, am not talking Predators on this. Second, this may sound stupid but why is a 3ft top load antenna, like so far I found a k40 tunable 3ft with 16 gauge wind so bad when a center loads coil would actually be lower? I thought I understood the whips were for adjusting? And the higher the coil the better, even though I have read that is to a point as well. The shortest "normal" size center load coiled antenna I found was a 5inch shaft W2000 4.5 ft taking my watts. Is that a bad antenna as well?
 
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There used to be a type of antenna that used a long bottom load about 12" long.

Also is similar to what some would call - a Tiger Antenna - twin wire wound - as in two separate wires running up the winds of the shaft - supposedly to improve the surface area and the bandwidth. Came in both Top load whip and bottom load like you'd see above (without the Puffed Rice)

If you've ever dealt with Hot-Rod Fiberlgass or the Francis Amazer antenna - they use a similar concept of multi-wire of different AWG # size - run up inside the fiberglass sheath and provided a level of performance due to their construction - that was unique to their brand.

There is a company called ProComm in Illinois that still offers these (CitizensBand)...now they come in 4-wire (Quad wound) - PDF attached...

Thanks read all those already. I don't really need wide band width. When I use this it would be on 27.185AM mostly. I think Skipshooter has one called the double barrel.
 
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I see you did your research! Good Job! (y)





Very well - mind if I ask - what did you find that maybe we can help with?

The above is from their website...good choice...

As a word of caution though. The shorter the antenna - the more voltage losses due to the transformation that is occurring - generates a lot of heat - even to the point of making the tips - that metal ferrule top - very hot. Can melt solder and even fatigue the fiberglass to a point where it simply collapses on itself (crumbled away) and you can find the top of your antenna missing after using an ATM or hitting a tree limb overhang.

It - heat from the power you run thru it - can ruin the seal the wrap it uses to keep out water - so be careful with the "fire in the wire" you use. Too much and she'll burn up - literally. The tips are small and light for a reason - but that also equates to not much there to take up and dissipate the heat that forms in the tip from all the RF radiating from it. Firestik offered more of a robust design but added weight and if you use a shock spring - albeit a heavy duty one at the least - for she will whip from the overweight top heavy thing they are.

It's what I encountered with "Tiger" antennas - those twin wire wound beasts that were around in the late 90's. I had to throw them in the trash - very little was salvageable. The tips themselves were chrome plated brass with no nickel plating in-between to protect them - so they tarnished and corroded to the point they were unusable The wire and its sheath corroded from the water entry - like I said - little was left to salvage.
 
Foldover... I know it's not what you wanted to work with in freezing temperatures or when you have to act quickly in a thunderstorm of downpour...But in a pinch - it saves from otherwise using a quick disconnect...

Firstly - this isn't a sale pitch - it's simply my own words and experiences here...

Which quick-disconnect? As there are several "types"

One uses a tang...or two tangs = One Tong?

From Walmart...Online
View attachment 26424
The above has some limitations - note the amount of metal "exposed" from the our ferrule and the "stud" showing underneath - this may work for quick align types of antennas that use "flared" or otherwise somewhat angled or directional radial design (top-hat inverted discone) but there is little room for "torque" to pass along the base of the ferrule to the stud so you may find this mount flying off in your rear view mirror along the highway if you use anything too heavy - either by height or by wind-loading - it can pop off by passing over the tangs if the bending of the ferrule starts to pry it away from the tangs.

Another is more length (longer mating shaft ferrule) which places more of the torque along the shaft of the sleeve and it's mate...

It also has only one tang, but note the mating surface is spread out over a larger part of the antenna adapter.View attachment 26425
Firestik has one too K1A...
View attachment 26427

I personally use the one above and you can find it thru Firestik antennas as a hardened stainless steel one = well worth the price for durability and corrosion resistance.

This one uses a SOLID ferrule and has a machined notch and matching tang in a spring loaded (like the others above) but this differs in that the Tensile strength on the spring to base of the mount (stud) is quite high so it takes considerable effort to remove but it offers a large range of antennas of 3/8th-24" thread that it can handle.

Hustler makes one too...
View attachment 26428



Notice the matching or mating surfaces and the level of machining - more complicated but handles torque across the base of the ferrule to the stud -the machined tang hook combo offers the better place to transfer torque or rotation - this lets the stud and ferrule handle the loading - it simply allows for the attachment and spring loaded downward force - all the rest of the stress is transferred to the outer ferrule to stud.

So fold over is ok, but if you can do a quick disconnect - out of sight is out of mind.

Hope this option - gives you several more ways to fix your problem.
I use these on my Ham stik antennas. They work really well.
 
Rabbi. What is that and what is it used for?
that's a loading coil for an antenna and I can make them in any length for any frequency to build antennas with any physical Dimension I choose.
Naturally the shorter I make it the worse it will perform but you'll be able to run as much power into it as you want without melting it
 

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