Look here:
http://www.cbtricks.com/new_products/amp/texas_star_dx1600v/index.htm
In the text it says...and I quote:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Input Power[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1/4 to 25watts if using the Driver stage[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1/4 to 100 watts if using the final stage only.[/FONT]
100 watts Max if not using the built in driver, the 8 finals only.
One has to know that the output of the "350" style driver stage is padded a lot if they only recomend that the input be 100 watts without the extra 2sc2879`s.
Now one the same page there is this statment, and I quote:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For the people that want to run the amp at 800 watt deadkey or on FM There is fan kit that can replace the bottom cover which covers the heatsink.[/FONT]
I DO NOT recommend that you do this!
I have run a DX 1600 at 700/800 watt dead key, and trust me you can cook dinner on the amp, and this was with 4 fans running on the heat sink. It will do it, but if you do not have all your ducks in a row, you invite a meltdown. If you want to quickly heat the cab of the truck, it will do that too, but it will not be long before you go see the Amp doctor if you run long keydowns.
I see no reason that your radio will not run that amp fine, you have to have an external watt meter behind the Amp, and watch what the power is comming out of it.
I have talked to a fellow at 8541 electronics and he was saying that 98 would be a perfect match for a TS 1600 if it was tuned right. If I remember correctly he said they could do about 5-8 watt DK and let it swing %100 modulation on low power. This way I could turn the power knob all the way down low when I want to run the 1600. Then I could slowly turn the power knob up till I get about 800-900 PEP on the 1600.
The part about:
This way I could slowly turn the power knob up till I get about 800-900 PEP ( PEP not dead key ) on the 1600.
This is very good advise!
Running the amp in this way will leave you some headroom, and not put so much stress on the amp. You still need the fans.
As Jack ( freecell ) has said:
personally i do not exceed 800W in either AM or SSB modes so that in the case of an antenna or feedline fault the transistors stand a good chance of surviving any extreme mismatches that could occur. secondly, the IMD levels remain at or > -24db. to keep the neighbors happy, especially since there is no low pass output filtering in the collector output of the DX1600.
The Model number is a DX 1600, not ment to be the output #`s of the amp in Watts.
Been there, done that , bought the shirt.
2 huge batteries from factory, and I think a 180 amp alternator factory. I am trying to find out if the alternator is actually 180 amps or not. IF its not, I am going to install a 200 amp alternator. They can be found for a pretty good price.
I have 4 gauge power and ground ran from the batteries to the cab of the truck. I have a 150 amp fuse in the engine bay, but I can swap it with a little bigger if i need. I think I can do 180 on the 4 gauge safely.
You should be "ok" with the 200 Amp Alt and good Batt`s. More Alt Amps would be even better, but it will run.
Just run the amp as recommened above, watch your power output, It is easy to forget were the power is set, and turn the Amp on.
Keep the fans running when the Amp is on.
Keep an eye on reflect/SWR because things happen.
I like Cross needle SWR meters, at a glance you can see forward and reflected power, and right away know what is going on with your system.
Run Good coax, and make sure it is installed well.
Use a quality mount, and good antenna.
I have 2 guage wire running to the cab behind the seat, fused under the hood, at the battery. It is a bit of overkill for 4 x 2sc2879`s, but I run the Radio and auto-tuner off the same lines.
Both Jack ( freecell ) and Richard ( ss8541 ) have told you good stuff.
Just make sure ALL the ducks are in a row...... and do not try to get all of the magic ten ohm smoke out of your system.
73
Jeff
