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What are the best and worst vehicles to run power in?

freecell, thanks for the reply.

to all,
you gotta read all the posts.
sorry, but this thread is long and involved by now, and if you dont read all the
previous posts before replying, you end up bringing the subject back to places it has already been.

there are only two devices on the vehicle that the RF from the amp is affecting.
they are the camshaft position sensor, and/or the crankshaft position sensor.
i cant tell which because the engine code is the same for both devices.

these two devices are "hall effect" devices using magnetic pulses to time the engine.
the RF from the amp is interrupting these pulses causing the vehicle to hiccup, and eventually die.

please realize that this thread would not be three pages long if the easy answers like, "ground everything" worked.

this vehicle is grounded as can be!!!

again, please read what has already been written, lest freecell feel the need to repeat himself yet again.LOL

thanks for the interest and patience,
LC
 
LOOSECANNON -


Freecell wrote:

"..eliminate any and all instances where MORE THAN ONE GROUND CONNECTION PATH exists between any two pieces of equipment. "

"...the propensity of many here to grounding everything in sight is the cause of the problem."

I thought that Freecell was referring to the radio equipment in the car, but now I think he means ANY equipment: i.e. radio, amp, FILTER, ECM, ALTERNATOR, SENSORS, CAR BODY, etc.
You wrote that you, "...shielded and grounded the computer, and ran shielded wires for the cam and crank sensors." You also mentioned that you grounded the alternator, and that, "the vehicle is grounded as can be."

I believe these are some of the double grounds he is referring to.

Finally, Freecell wrote:

" the solution is to use a central grounding point or "sink" (and use) the ENGINE BLOCK as the central grounding point connection."

Evidentally, the engine block functions as the ground point for the ECM System, and this is what Freecell is referring to as the "reference ground." So...(I'm assuming here)you need to attach the negative leads from the radio and amp to the engine block and not the negative battery terminal. Also, maybe you should unground the filter. None of the equipment in my base station is grounded (although everyone tells me it should be), and it works just fine. So...(again I'm assuming) there's probably no reason to ground the chassis of the radio or the amp or the filter in your mobile either.

I hope what I said here is right. If I'm wrong, I know Freecell will tell me. LOL.

- 399
 
Last edited:
Here is how my system is set up...

My Uniden PC68XL is wired directly to the battery both Positive and negative.
My Amp the positive comes directly from the battery. The negative is as short as possible and is attached to a seat bolt which goes directly to the frame.

I used braided strap to ground the body to the frame and the engine to the frame. And I grounded the battery better than the stock ground.

No chassis grounds from any equipment.

When I added a another amp, I added a battery which used the original amps power from battery and grounded the second battery to another seat bolt. The second amp was then grounded to a third seat bolt and both amps are powered from the batteries.

I guess this would eliminate the "loop" problem.

After reading this thread 40 or 50 times in the past few weeks, I had to go look at my set up to make sure of how I had done it.
 
formulamojo said:
Here is how my system is set up...

My Uniden PC68XL is wired directly to the battery both Positive and negative.
My Amp the positive comes directly from the battery. The negative is as short as possible and is attached to a seat bolt which goes directly to the frame.

I used braided strap to ground the body to the frame and the engine to the frame. And I grounded the battery better than the stock ground.

No chassis grounds from any equipment.

When I added a another amp, I added a battery which used the original amps power from battery and grounded the second battery to another seat bolt. The second amp was then grounded to a third seat bolt and both amps are powered from the batteries.

I guess this would eliminate the "loop" problem.

After reading this thread 40 or 50 times in the past few weeks, I had to go look at my set up to make sure of how I had done it.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the only thing left is what's known as (bonding) which means adding straps from fenders/engine/alternator case/ pickup bed if applicable.
 
399,

thanks for the reply,

as for the multiple grounds on the vehicles equipment, i only added those to try and fix a problem that existed before they were ever on the vehicle.
so i know they didnt cause it.

as for grounding the amp and the radio to the engine block, i guess i could try that.
sounds like it might do something.

i have to say though, as i said before; im done trying things with this vehicle.
its too damn hot here (is 113* today) to be doing anything to the car, and im just going to sell it anyway.

so, this discussion, for me, is really about getting freecell to give a layman's terms explanation of the principle he is posting about.

this is merely to further my knowledge of radios, and maybe help someone else down the road who has this problem and finds this thread.

hopefully freecell will read some of these posts im making and realize that i just want him to lay this all out for us one time, so someone in the future might benefit from it.

thanks again for the interest,
LC
 

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