Sorry. will try again after where done doing my wifes meds.Can't see photos man. It wants me to log into Gmail. Any other way you can post them??
Like I predicted, it went from resonant @ 27.185 without the cap hat to 19.205 mhz with the cap hat. Removing 3 feet of copper from the coil brought it back to resonance @ 27.185 mhz.
Whip is still Too longView attachment 18696 View attachment 18693 View attachment 18694 View attachment 18695
This is the best I could get:
Hard mounted Breadlove 4in. mount.
Sirio P 5000 trucker.
!6in. jumper coax from mount (under headliner)
mfj !:1 bal.
18ft. RG8X.
Extra bonding from antenna mount to tool box.
Going to work on it tomorrow. MY Best "X" right now is X=0 w/R=70 on 26.834 at swr of 1.3X is far more important than R when it comes to tuning, and if it were me I would trim it until X = 0, irregardless what R ended up being, as long as it was within a reasonable range. That being said, your antenna will work just fine as it is. No one will notice the difference between what you have and a so called perfect setup.
The DB
Will work on it tomorrow. I will remove the mfj 915 ( 1:1), and test, then I will remove bonding straps from mount to tool box, and test. Tool box is aluminum, bonding straps copper, and the tool box lid is bonded to the side od the tool box, and then to the top rail of the pick up bed which is bonded to the cab of the truck, and frame and hood as well....all is bonded but the tial gate, and the side doors.Yep. Get the X down to 0. You might also try removing the 1:1 balun and try it that way. Just some food for thought. Also you can try tuning antenna with the 18ft coax jumper as well. Just to see what happens. Just some food for thought. And also is the box you have the ground strap going to bonded to the frame and is it made of steel or aluminum. Might also try removing it and see what happens. You should have a good connection on the underside of the mount. Bare metal to bare metal with some NO-OX added to all connection points as well. Doing some experimenting won't hurt anything and may help your actual match or may not. Won't know unless you try. But as said. I would get the X value to 0 then focus on the rest. JMHO's.
If I change my feed line lenght (coax) arnt I just moving the SWR NODE to another point?Yep. Get the X down to 0. You might also try removing the 1:1 balun and try it that way. Just some food for thought. Also you can try tuning antenna with the 18ft coax jumper as well. Just to see what happens. Just some food for thought. And also is the box you have the ground strap going to bonded to the frame and is it made of steel or aluminum. Might also try removing it and see what happens. You should have a good connection on the underside of the mount. Bare metal to bare metal with some NO-OX added to all connection points as well. Doing some experimenting won't hurt anything and may help your actual match or may not. Won't know unless you try. But as said. I would get the X value to 0 then focus on the rest. JMHO's.
The "node" I got from reading K0BG.comThere is no such thing as an "SWR NODE", if the SWR on the feed line changes when changing length, then you have other problems that you need to deal with such as common mode currents or a ground loop. If your antenna system is working correctly, SWR should not change with feed line length, unless it is a long run of feed line, at which point SWR will get slightly better with length, but it generally takes a lot of length unless you are using a chinese brand RG-58 or something like that...
The DB