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12V-100AMP Supply for $20.00!!
- Thread starter unit_399
- Start date
Always. You've just got to ground the case and use chokes/ filters on all wires going in & out. I've had many switchers, they all produce birdies somewhere.
Most of those high current supplies operate on 240 volts only. My 50 volt 60 amp supply onlu runs on 240 volts but it is a 3000 watt supply. Not sure if the 1200 watt 100 amp supply is dual voltage or even 120 volts at all.
It says on the label that it can work at ~110vac; but how does one get it to work there?
Is the on/off switch used - a momentary switch - or a normal open/normal closed SPST switch?
Be difficult to get one of these supplies to work if that info isn't known. The output voltage mod has already been accounted for. Was thinking about getting one of these supplies; but now I'm not so sure. Wouldn't want it if it couldn't be hooked up to 110vac . . .
EDIT:
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http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5336136228&icep_item=271162444540
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The answer to wiring it for 110vac is:
Green is always ground.
Setup 1 at 110v: Blue is Neutral. Red is 110v - 120v line.
Setup 2 at 220v single phase: Blue is Neutral. Red is 220v single phase line.
Setup 3 at 220v split phase. Blue is hot (110v line). Red is hot (other 110v line that is 180 degrees out of phase with the first).
On/off switch answer is:
Normal open/normal closed SPST switch.
The LAST problem to use this Hp DL580 supply is the noise factor; it is really loud! Some have compared the fan noise to a leaf blower or a not-too-distant 747 flying overhead and 'melting your brains' as a consequence. One modder suggested that using a 10 ohm/2 watt resistor for each fan should get it to be reasonably quiet; but I imagine that is relative to the original noise level. The Dell supplies are supposed to be much quieter; so that may be the best PS choice IMO. Haven't researched that supply enough yet to say for sure - though. Got all of this info from skimming through some 140 pages of posts on that RC forum previously linked BTW . . .
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005309&page=53
Green is always ground.
Setup 1 at 110v: Blue is Neutral. Red is 110v - 120v line.
Setup 2 at 220v single phase: Blue is Neutral. Red is 220v single phase line.
Setup 3 at 220v split phase. Blue is hot (110v line). Red is hot (other 110v line that is 180 degrees out of phase with the first).
On/off switch answer is:
Normal open/normal closed SPST switch.
The LAST problem to use this Hp DL580 supply is the noise factor; it is really loud! Some have compared the fan noise to a leaf blower or a not-too-distant 747 flying overhead and 'melting your brains' as a consequence. One modder suggested that using a 10 ohm/2 watt resistor for each fan should get it to be reasonably quiet; but I imagine that is relative to the original noise level. The Dell supplies are supposed to be much quieter; so that may be the best PS choice IMO. Haven't researched that supply enough yet to say for sure - though. Got all of this info from skimming through some 140 pages of posts on that RC forum previously linked BTW . . .
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005309&page=53
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When I started this thread, I posted the minimum amount of info for people to get going with one of these supplies. I did all of the research to find the additional info to get the most out of one of these supplies, and I thought if people were interested enough, they would dig the info out on their own. Surprise, Surprise ... Dragraceer and Robb have searched and posted what is needed to make this supply work with most radios and linears.
I have been working on my supply for several weeks, and have posted pics of the project in my picture albums. I will post a schematic of the supply in a few days.
As I mentioned in my original post the fan noise is a problem. I disconnected the fan, and removed it. The supply is designed to work at maximum output continuously, and needs a lot of airflow to keep it cool. When used in amateur service, it's not nearly loaded down as much, and the cooling requirements are not nearly as critical. I took a fan I had laying around, and mounted it as shown in my album pics. I made it two speed, temperature controlled as shown in the schematic.
If there are noise problems (birdies) with this unit I haven't encountered them. I used ferrite beads on the AC input lines, and on the 13.8 volt DC output lines to prevent this, and it seems as if this works.
I will have my supply completed by the end of next week, and will post pics of the finished project.
- 399
I have been working on my supply for several weeks, and have posted pics of the project in my picture albums. I will post a schematic of the supply in a few days.
As I mentioned in my original post the fan noise is a problem. I disconnected the fan, and removed it. The supply is designed to work at maximum output continuously, and needs a lot of airflow to keep it cool. When used in amateur service, it's not nearly loaded down as much, and the cooling requirements are not nearly as critical. I took a fan I had laying around, and mounted it as shown in my album pics. I made it two speed, temperature controlled as shown in the schematic.
If there are noise problems (birdies) with this unit I haven't encountered them. I used ferrite beads on the AC input lines, and on the 13.8 volt DC output lines to prevent this, and it seems as if this works.
I will have my supply completed by the end of next week, and will post pics of the finished project.
- 399
And although these large value electrolytics will not filter any rf noise, they will however act as buffer to the voltage drop on peak instantaneous current excursions in your rf amplifier, just as they do for the high power audio systems as noted above. I bought a lesser quality 0.5 Farad unit from Walmart to use with my 400W 2 meter and 500W HF solid-state amps, and it works very well in that regard. Thought it might be worth a mention. 73
Sorry, but in regard to my previous post regarding the large electrolytic caps, I failed to mention that I paid little attention to the time it takes for the dc to bleed off the power supply output. It was not an issue in my case, because it happens within several minutes. There may even be a bleeder resistor built into the unit. 73
Many power supplies will auto detect the input voltage and switch accordingly. Plug it into 120VAC or 240VAC and you will get 12V out. I ordered one for $18. Hard to go wrong at that price.
that's how i was taught to discharge psu capacitors, even on 3 amp supplies and 40ch radios i always did it that way, even though unneccessary its still a good idea to get in the habit of it,i always turned the volume down too,before powering down,same as i do with hifi's,avoids the audio amplifiers getting blasted on switch on when cold,better to gradually increase volume,
i do the same with linears,let them heat with short busts of dead carrier at low drive levels/output settings gradually increasing to normal operating levels, never had an audio amp or rf final/driver blow on me in 30 years,but have repaired loads for others.
think of radio gear like a woman,heated up slowly, and turned off gently, it avoids you waking up to a fucking monstrosity in the morning
Robb -
If you open up the unit, you will see that there are two fans inside. They're in the middle,and are held in by a half dozen screws or so. When you remove the screws, the fan assembly lifts out. The reason the fans are so noisy is that they run at 11,000 rpm. I tried to use resistors to slow them down, but even at half speed they were still noisy as hell. Also, you need to use at least a 1 watt resistor for each fan, since they draw a lot of current. Finding space for these was a real PITA. So, I removed the fan assembly, and mounted a fan from an old computer psu externally. Even after a 5 minute SSB keydown at about 400w out, the air coming out of the unit is hardly warm. A single small fan could even be mounted internally, but would be a lot more work. Hope this helps. 73s.
If you open up the unit, you will see that there are two fans inside. They're in the middle,and are held in by a half dozen screws or so. When you remove the screws, the fan assembly lifts out. The reason the fans are so noisy is that they run at 11,000 rpm. I tried to use resistors to slow them down, but even at half speed they were still noisy as hell. Also, you need to use at least a 1 watt resistor for each fan, since they draw a lot of current. Finding space for these was a real PITA. So, I removed the fan assembly, and mounted a fan from an old computer psu externally. Even after a 5 minute SSB keydown at about 400w out, the air coming out of the unit is hardly warm. A single small fan could even be mounted internally, but would be a lot more work. Hope this helps. 73s.
There is a local eBay seller in my town that has HP DPS-600PB supplies (50A) for $10/piece. Pin 4 to GND gives quiet fan operation with thermal tracking. I bought 4 for $40 with no shipping charges. I'm going to pick them up today. Thanks 399 for bringing this topic out in the open.
http://tinyurl.com/DPS-600PB
http://tinyurl.com/DPS-600PB
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