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Base Sirio New Vector 4000 Install

More progress. This is the top clamp. I made the brackets strong enough to drive a truck over them because I don't want them to be the weak link. The idea is to be able to tilt the mast up and down without tools. Found a knob in my junk drawer. The bolt head jams nicely against the weld for the big nut that it goes through. This loose fit for the bolt allows it to move slightly to the side as the hinge plate swings into position. I will put a zip tie around the bolt to capture it so I don't loose it.

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For the mast coupling sleeves I put some weld spots to take up the slack as the inner tube was slightly smaller. The tube I am using for the sleeves came from a hydraulic supply house. It is some kind of alloy and is hard and stiff unlike exhaust pipe. It was $7.50 a foot and I got 2 feet. I fit the tubes to each pipe with a flap wheel on my angle grinder. I made the fit tight and knocked them together with a hammer and a block of wood. Then the pipes screwed into the pipe coupler like normal. This arrangement leaves the inside of the mast unobstructed and I am thinking about running the coax through it like on my Starduster.

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Found this pulley at the local Tractor Supply store. Made in America? Perfect, this gem goes right on top. I added a stainless wire to the back of it and a longer bolt to keep the cable on track. The only stainless 1/4 20 bolts i had were cap screws that I use for license plates on my vehicles. Low digit tags are a target for theives so the hex slows them down a little. Having a decent vehicle with rust running down the license plate drives me nuts. LOLIMG_20180508_082825099.jpg
 
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STM: Did you run a bead on those couplings? Those threads are a weak point, most certainly after you get weight on the end and go to winch it up...first point of failure is any coupling and or threads.
When I had something like your set-up...cut threads off and cut sleeves about 2 ft long out of next size bigger pipe split length wise and had those wielded to make my joints...
I went to install 2 section mast with antennas mounted, pulled it up and over the top of the tower with Gen-Pole; and it started to bend (kink) right at the top of the threads above the coupling...
Had to bring the whole array back down, cut off couple inches up above threads on both sections and then had the sleeves made before I took it back up...PITA! :)
My 2 cents worth
Looks Grt! Will work well for you I hope...nice job on the base.
All the Best
Gary
 
BJ radionut said:
STM: Did you run a bead on those couplings? Those threads are a weak point, most certainly after you get weight on the end and go to winch it up...first point of failure is any coupling and or threads.
When I had something like your set-up...cut threads off and cut sleeves about 2 ft long out of next size bigger pipe split length wise and had those wielded to make my joints...
I went to install 2 section mast with antennas mounted, pulled it up and over the top of the tower with Gen-Pole; and it started to bend (kink) right at the top of the threads above the coupling...
Had to bring the whole array back down, cut off couple inches up above threads on both sections and then had the sleeves made before I took it back up...PITA! :)
My 2 cents worth
Looks Grt! Will work well for you I hope...nice job on the base.
All the Best
Gary
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input BJ. The internal sleeves I made should take the stress off of the pipe threads. The thought did cross my mind to make a conventional tower out of water pipe and rebar. LOL I will definitely be keeping an eye on the mounts and joints. Thanks for the compliments.
Chris 73s
 
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Chris: Should have known, by looking at the rest of your work...that you reinforced that already;):ROFLMAO:
Are going to install a pulley and or Clevis on your Eye bolt for your wire antennas? That way you can let your wires down without dropping the whole array. I am not so sure I would not do same on both sides of your top, that way you could add another wire antenna running a different direction...(just never know)!:whistle:
All the Best :LOL:
Gary
 
BJ radionut said:
Chris: Should have known, by looking at the rest of your work...that you reinforced that already;):ROFLMAO:
Are going to install a pulley and or Clevis on your Eye bolt for your wire antennas? That way you can let your wires down without dropping the whole array. I am not so sure I would not do same on both sides of your top, that way you could add another wire antenna running a different direction...(just never know)!:whistle:
All the Best :LOL:
Gary
Click to expand...
Hey Gary, I have not figured out what to do exactly for the long wire. I just have half an idea right now. A clevis is a good idea because it seems I am always changing out and trying out different things. The 6x6 beam is not straight but rotated about 30 degrees so when it tilts over it will miss the clothes line in the yard. This is why I only have one ring. If the 30 degrees was not sesntial to the plan then it would drive me nuts not being straight with the house. What do people use for a long wire that goes over trees? I am tempted to use 1/8 cable. Thanks for the input.
Chris 73s
 
Chris: Long wires need not be any bigger than #14 awg...stranded or solid...does not matter...or it could be larger #12- #10...what ever you have handy. It need not be pulled taught either...a little droop gives it movement and reduces strain...for receiving purposes as long as practical, and need not worry about it touching limbs or branches. However I would keep enough rope on it so it is not directly under your beam. This way does not mess with it pattern wise. Unless the beam is going to be like 5 ft above the wire. Either way I would keep it 2 or 3 ft away from the pole.
Now when you get your ticket another issue...but we will go there later:whistle:(y)
How do you plan to route the wire to your receiver...via coax...direct wire to Rxcr...twin lead?
All the Best
Gary

https://on8alt.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/easy-antennas-for-the-swl.pdf

http://kv5r.com/ham-radio/shortwave-antennas/shortwave-antennas-page-8/
 
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BJ radionut said:
Chris: Long wires need not be any bigger than #14 awg...stranded or solid...does not matter...or it could be larger #12- #10...what ever you have handy. It need not be pulled taught either...a little droop gives it movement and reduces strain...for receiving purposes as long as practical, and need not worry about it touching limbs or branches. However I would keep enough rope on it so it is not directly under your beam. This way does not mess with it pattern wise. Unless the beam is going to be like 5 ft above the wire. Either way I would keep it 2 or 3 ft away from the pole.
Now when you get your ticket another issue...but we will go there later:whistle:(y)
How do you plan to route the wire to your receiver...via coax...direct wire to Rxcr...twin lead?
All the Best
Gary

https://on8alt.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/easy-antennas-for-the-swl.pdf

http://kv5r.com/ham-radio/shortwave-antennas/shortwave-antennas-page-8/
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the info BJ I have some reading to do for sure. I will probably run coax to the long wire since it seems like it would be easier to run without any worries about routing and power wires under the house etc. I am thinking that I might need a balun for it but I am not sure.
Chris 73s
 
I made some progress today even though it was raining. There were a few hours this morning and a few hours this afternoon where it was just sprinkling so I got it together. The main section I had put together in the garage yesterday so it wasn't too bad. I used Never Seize on the joints and instead of using the screws that came with it for the radiator sections I used hose clamps. The SWR came out flat on ch1 and 1.4 on ch 40. I will be taking more pictures and measurements of the antenna when I drop it down to tune it after the rain stops.

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