Now you can test all those Chicken Banders to make they are done? LOL.
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What electronics have YOU fixed lately?
- Thread starter Robb
- Start date
now you can use it to heat up bearings!
If anyone wants to watch a YT video about repairing things that should just be thrown away, check out Mr. Carlsons lab video on the coffee machine.
He goes soooo far into the repair it is almost comical.
Also, hey James!
hope all is well in your neck of the jungle.
LC
fixed up 2 mics for a lafeyette telsat ssb-50,, if any one has some 4 pin y plugs for lafeyette cb s i could use a couple,, found some but the guy wants 12 dollars plus shipping cant do that on a strict budget since biden raised my insurance, house payment and food cost,, looking for utilities to shoot up soon,,
Can't really heat up anything metal in a MW. I use it a lot make plastic pliable and easier to rework. Good for plastic welding too.
Got a refrig in the shop and an old KitchenAid dishwasher, which is great for degreasing just about anything.
We're doing well. Luz and I survived a bout with the Covid which was a real PITA. Other than that life in the jungle is slow and easy.
- 399
Well you sir are in for a treat!
I've done it and it works great.
glad to hear you two are doing well.
hope to catch you in DX land some time this year.
LC
I've done it and it works great.
glad to hear you two are doing well.
hope to catch you in DX land some time this year.
LC
The right hand directional signal stopped working on my 2003 Hilux 4x4, so I
started looking for the problem. Checked out everything and found
that the hazard switch was the culprit. With the switch removed and
jumper wires installed to similate being in the Flasher “OFF” mode,
the RH turn signal began to work.
My truck is fitted with a dual-fuel conversion (gasoline or compressed natural gas). The location of the gas/CNG selector switch and fuel level indicator (lower left hand side of the dash) was hard to see. The hazard switch cutout was a much better location. The switch cutout for the rear window defogger (which my truck didn't have) was a perfect location for the hazard switch
No aftermarket hazard switch was available, so an OEM replacement was my only option. A factory OEM hazard switch costs 365,000 Colombian pesos (about $95 USD) at my local Toyota dealer's rip-off parts department. Being a cheap-ass, I decided to replace the stock switch with an on/off switch and a relay.
After checking out the Hilux hazard switch circuit, it looked like a 4PDT relay would work.
The parts:
1.) SPST red hazard switch w/led (19,000 pesos/ $5.00 USD)
2.) 1N4001 diode
3.) 4 pole double-throw relay with 12v coil (9,500 pesos/ $2.50 USD)
4.) Hookup wire and double-sided sticky tape.
5.) 1/8” male solderless connectors
Drew up a connecting diagram.
I wanted to retain the original hazard switch plug and not have to cut
up the factory wiring harness. Cannibalized the defective switch, soldered wires to the contacts, and used it as a jack to connect to the wiring harness plug.
The completed relay and jack assembly.
Installed on the rear of the dash panel
The final installation.
The CNG/Gasoline selector installed in the original hazard switch location below the clock, and the new hazard switch in the rear defogger location
This was an easy mod, and it worked perfectly. I put the switch and
relay assembly together on my bench, and installing it was simply a
matter of enlarging the switch cutout slightly and then plugging in
everything. Total cost of parts was 24 000 COP ($8 USD). Project took a couple of days from start to finish. Well worth the time.
- 399
started looking for the problem. Checked out everything and found
that the hazard switch was the culprit. With the switch removed and
jumper wires installed to similate being in the Flasher “OFF” mode,
the RH turn signal began to work.
My truck is fitted with a dual-fuel conversion (gasoline or compressed natural gas). The location of the gas/CNG selector switch and fuel level indicator (lower left hand side of the dash) was hard to see. The hazard switch cutout was a much better location. The switch cutout for the rear window defogger (which my truck didn't have) was a perfect location for the hazard switch
No aftermarket hazard switch was available, so an OEM replacement was my only option. A factory OEM hazard switch costs 365,000 Colombian pesos (about $95 USD) at my local Toyota dealer's rip-off parts department. Being a cheap-ass, I decided to replace the stock switch with an on/off switch and a relay.
After checking out the Hilux hazard switch circuit, it looked like a 4PDT relay would work.
The parts:
1.) SPST red hazard switch w/led (19,000 pesos/ $5.00 USD)
2.) 1N4001 diode
3.) 4 pole double-throw relay with 12v coil (9,500 pesos/ $2.50 USD)
4.) Hookup wire and double-sided sticky tape.
5.) 1/8” male solderless connectors
Drew up a connecting diagram.
I wanted to retain the original hazard switch plug and not have to cut
up the factory wiring harness. Cannibalized the defective switch, soldered wires to the contacts, and used it as a jack to connect to the wiring harness plug.
The completed relay and jack assembly.
Installed on the rear of the dash panel
The final installation.
The CNG/Gasoline selector installed in the original hazard switch location below the clock, and the new hazard switch in the rear defogger location
This was an easy mod, and it worked perfectly. I put the switch and
relay assembly together on my bench, and installing it was simply a
matter of enlarging the switch cutout slightly and then plugging in
everything. Total cost of parts was 24 000 COP ($8 USD). Project took a couple of days from start to finish. Well worth the time.
- 399
Last edited:
Great work!The right hand directional signal stopped working on my 2003 Hilux 4x4, so I
started looking for the problem. Checked out everything and found
that the hazard switch was the culprit. With the switch removed and
jumper wires installed to simulate being in the Flasher “OFF” mode,
the RH turn signal began to work.
My truck is fitted with a dual-fuel conversion (gasoline or compressed natural gas). The location of the gas/CNG selector switch and fuel level indicator (lower left hand side of the dash) was hard to see. The hazard switch cutout was a much better location. The switch cutout for the rear window defogger (which my truck didn't have) was a perfect location for the hazard switch
No aftermarket hazard switch was available, so an OEM replacement was my only option. A factory OEM hazard switch costs 365,000 Colombian pesos (about $95 USD) at my local Toyota dealer's rip-off parts department. Being a cheap-ass, I decided to replace the stock switch with an on/off switch and a relay.
After checking out the Hilux hazard switch circuit, it looked like a 4PDT relay would work.
The parts:
1.) SPST red hazard switch w/led (19,000 pesos/ $5.00 USD)
2.) 1N4001 diode
3.) 4 pole double-throw relay with 12v coil (9,500 pesos/ $2.50 USD)
4.) Hookup wire and double-sided sticky tape.
5.) 1/8” male solderless connectors
Drew up a connecting diagram.
I wanted to retain the original hazard switch plug and not have to cut
up the factory wiring harness. Cannibalized the defective switch, soldered wires to the contacts, and used it as a jack to connect to the wiring harness plug.
The completed relay and plug assembly.
Installed on the rear of the dash panel
The final installation.
The CNG/Gasoline selector installed in the original hazard switch location below the clock, and the new hazard switch in the rear defogger location
This was an easy mod, and it worked perfectly. I put the switch and
relay assembly together on my bench, and installing it was simply a
matter of enlarging the switch cutout slightly and then plugging in
everything. Total cost of parts was 24 000 COP ($8 USD). Project took a couple of days from start to finish. Well worth the time.
- 399
73
Jeff
If we had an "applause" button I'd push it.The right hand directional signal stopped working on my 2003 Hilux 4x4, so I
started looking for the problem. Checked out everything and found
that the hazard switch was the culprit. With the switch removed and
jumper wires installed to simulate being in the Flasher “OFF” mode,
the RH turn signal began to work.
My truck is fitted with a dual-fuel conversion (gasoline or compressed natural gas). The location of the gas/CNG selector switch and fuel level indicator (lower left hand side of the dash) was hard to see. The hazard switch cutout was a much better location. The switch cutout for the rear window defogger (which my truck didn't have) was a perfect location for the hazard switch
No aftermarket hazard switch was available, so an OEM replacement was my only option. A factory OEM hazard switch costs 365,000 Colombian pesos (about $95 USD) at my local Toyota dealer's rip-off parts department. Being a cheap-ass, I decided to replace the stock switch with an on/off switch and a relay.
After checking out the Hilux hazard switch circuit, it looked like a 4PDT relay would work.
The parts:
1.) SPST red hazard switch w/led (19,000 pesos/ $5.00 USD)
2.) 1N4001 diode
3.) 4 pole double-throw relay with 12v coil (9,500 pesos/ $2.50 USD)
4.) Hookup wire and double-sided sticky tape.
5.) 1/8” male solderless connectors
Drew up a connecting diagram.
I wanted to retain the original hazard switch plug and not have to cut
up the factory wiring harness. Cannibalized the defective switch, soldered wires to the contacts, and used it as a jack to connect to the wiring harness plug.
The completed relay and jack assembly.
Installed on the rear of the dash panel
The final installation.
The CNG/Gasoline selector installed in the original hazard switch location below the clock, and the new hazard switch in the rear defogger location
This was an easy mod, and it worked perfectly. I put the switch and
relay assembly together on my bench, and installing it was simply a
matter of enlarging the switch cutout slightly and then plugging in
everything. Total cost of parts was 24 000 COP ($8 USD). Project took a couple of days from start to finish. Well worth the time.
- 399
Converted President Richard to 11 meters and repaired MFJ 849 SWR/Power meter. Inadvertently hooked it up backwards and immediately smelled smoke. Upon inspection, a single copper wire had burned in half. All else okay. Back in line and working good. 
kinda like an unintentional fusible link!Converted President Richard to 11 meters and repaired MFJ 849 SWR/Power meter. Inadvertently hooked it up backwards and immediately smelled smoke. Upon inspection, a single copper wire had burned in half. All else okay. Back in line and working good.
Ah!
So that’s what that thin little wire was. The little rascal saved my meter.
Thanks!
RCI-2980. Came with the mic jack blown out the back of the socket and a dead frequency counter.
Don't know how the mic jack got that way, but it tuned the nut holding it into an oval. I ended up having to chisel the body of the connector out of the little holder bracket. New mic jack installed without too much trouble. Even got the little bypass caps back in place without burning my fingers, much.
Then I recapped it as a precaution. May not have been strictly necessary, but some of the brands of caps in there looked kind of sketchy.
Frequency counter board is EPT210014C, same as Galaxy sells in their standalone counters. This one was missing R37. 47 Ohms at 0.1W. I did see the Mike's Radio Repair video on these where he suggested using a higher wattage resistor, since these seem to go bad so often. Guess pushing all the board power through such a low wattage part was a bad idea. I bodged a 1/4W in there, using heat shrink to isolate the leads. SMD part probably would have looked better, but I was too lazy to find the right one. I took a chance that the missing resistor was the only problem. For once, it paid off.
As of about 30 minutes ago the radio works. Needs alignment, but everything seems to function.
Don't know how the mic jack got that way, but it tuned the nut holding it into an oval. I ended up having to chisel the body of the connector out of the little holder bracket. New mic jack installed without too much trouble. Even got the little bypass caps back in place without burning my fingers, much.
Then I recapped it as a precaution. May not have been strictly necessary, but some of the brands of caps in there looked kind of sketchy.
Frequency counter board is EPT210014C, same as Galaxy sells in their standalone counters. This one was missing R37. 47 Ohms at 0.1W. I did see the Mike's Radio Repair video on these where he suggested using a higher wattage resistor, since these seem to go bad so often. Guess pushing all the board power through such a low wattage part was a bad idea. I bodged a 1/4W in there, using heat shrink to isolate the leads. SMD part probably would have looked better, but I was too lazy to find the right one. I took a chance that the missing resistor was the only problem. For once, it paid off.
As of about 30 minutes ago the radio works. Needs alignment, but everything seems to function.
picked up a BK1803 frequency counter on the cheap recently.
Had one years ago and found it super handy because of the 1 second gate time when doing 10hz resolution. (i have like four freq counters and tend to use them all at once for different things)
yes, this counter will read the 1hz position, but i don't think ive ever seen mine go completely steady on it, so i will say this is still a 10hz resolution counter.
the counter itself worked fine, but needed calibration obviously.
the real "fix" was the power supply.
BK precision included a wall wart to use with these that puts out 9vac.
yes, AC.
the wall wart buzzed quite loudly and was annoying. it also ran pretty hot.
i opened it up and it is nothing more than a step down transformer inside.
inside the counter, it uses a half wave rectifier (read: a diode) to chop the AC waveform, and from there it goes in to a 7805 regulator which handles the bulk of the work.
This counter also includes a 6 AA battery holder that mounts internally so you can use it in a mobile application. In the manual, it tells you that your three options for powering the unit are the supplied AC wall wart, the internal battery pack, or some other aftermarket 9 volt adapter, but they specifically tell you to use a DC converter. This has to do with using the supplied adapter to re-charge the batteries if you use them.
i won't be using rechargeable batteries, so i bought a 9vdc adapter, jumped out the diode and wired it to accept the DC input.
i also did Mike's (of mikes radio repair) mod where the 7805 gets attached to the crystal in order to heat it more quickly, and re-capped it.
it's small size made it an easy fit on the bench and it is now in service and doing it's thing.
these are great counters for basic measurements, and can be had pretty cheap on the auction site.
LC
Had one years ago and found it super handy because of the 1 second gate time when doing 10hz resolution. (i have like four freq counters and tend to use them all at once for different things)
yes, this counter will read the 1hz position, but i don't think ive ever seen mine go completely steady on it, so i will say this is still a 10hz resolution counter.
the counter itself worked fine, but needed calibration obviously.
the real "fix" was the power supply.
BK precision included a wall wart to use with these that puts out 9vac.
yes, AC.
the wall wart buzzed quite loudly and was annoying. it also ran pretty hot.
i opened it up and it is nothing more than a step down transformer inside.
inside the counter, it uses a half wave rectifier (read: a diode) to chop the AC waveform, and from there it goes in to a 7805 regulator which handles the bulk of the work.
This counter also includes a 6 AA battery holder that mounts internally so you can use it in a mobile application. In the manual, it tells you that your three options for powering the unit are the supplied AC wall wart, the internal battery pack, or some other aftermarket 9 volt adapter, but they specifically tell you to use a DC converter. This has to do with using the supplied adapter to re-charge the batteries if you use them.
i won't be using rechargeable batteries, so i bought a 9vdc adapter, jumped out the diode and wired it to accept the DC input.
i also did Mike's (of mikes radio repair) mod where the 7805 gets attached to the crystal in order to heat it more quickly, and re-capped it.
it's small size made it an easy fit on the bench and it is now in service and doing it's thing.
these are great counters for basic measurements, and can be had pretty cheap on the auction site.
LC