Funny you mention this amp, guy brought one over today. It was a 1 driving 4 EL509's. Guy changed radios and didn't flip the antenna switch. He had a 2995 he put into it, well the amp works, but won't do but 100W average. But it easily oscillates to 800 pep. Told him, he is going to have to buy 5 new tubes. Input was thru the roof. Would not tune any better than a 4.5 :1 input swr. You have to baby these and they will last awhile. He had it 3 years and no trouble, but Overload the front just once and its down for the count. Screws for the plate chokes we're loose and arcing. 2 of the clamps for the anodes , the solder gave way and clamps fell off. That is what I found today. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but that's what I found today.
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KLV-1000 - Junk - or not . . .
- Thread starter Robb
- Start date
If you are still looking check my ad on Craigslist at: http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/ele/4551589649.html
I can't relate to the "issues" you mentioned in your reply... I have had none with this amp but that may be because it has never been abused. My KLV has been re-tubed one time less than a year ago and that was to replace the original tubes...
Gotta say....Captian Killowatt.....you will never again be SO CORRECT!! It's a CB amp. Begin and all else. As with all the "CB" designed amps....it's a cheap sweep tube amp. It's "ok" for a little "boost" on a CB at nominal power levels....but ALL sweep tube amps choke on the biscut when you attempt to drive them even normally. If you're running HF frequencies....and you want to run glass....ALWAYS stick with the tetrode tube. It's just how it's done. Don't get me wrong...I'm not being snooty either....I ran a D&A Maverick 250 for years on 11 meters. Yeah....it did some wattage....yeah....it was loud....but "clean".....not so much. Got my ticket....got an FL2100B...then moved up to a Kenwood TL 922....the comparison is non existent. But to stay in the monetary range of the post.....yep....SB 200 is awesome! The SB 220 is MORE awesome....but then we're creeping up in the monetary again. FL 2100 B, or SB 200. ABSOLUTELY!!All amps do that. Clean signal with lower output and shitty signal when you drive the snot out of them.
They can be clean but only if run well below maximum output. Remember this amp only has a total final plate dissipation of around something equal to a single 572B. What would you expect a single 572B to sound like at 500+ watts out? I'll give you a hint: It's brown and circles the bowl when the little handle is pressed.
That's because it's a CB amp with all the caveats that go along with them. Real hams run real HAM amps. Not trying to be snooty or anything but that's the truth. There is a reason why ham amps cost more and have a lot more parts than a CB amp.
Your money will be wiser spent on a REAL ham amp.
They do makes great boat anchors though. With one exception, they suck so bad they stay stuck to the bottom and you have to cut your anchor line.
I have five of them given to me and I have not even tested them to see if they work.
I have five of them given to me and I have not even tested them to see if they work.
All the above amps use TRIODE tubes not Tetrode,
Nothing wrong with a triode, GG configuration and cathode driven, little bit of bias and works fine.
FL2100B is prone to oscillations due to the marginal cutoff bias design, once modded they are pretty stable, SB200 is a great table top work horse
.NONE of the above are designed for AM operations.
i have a klv 350 tube amp with the meters.
actually i forgot i had it. never used it. still in the box.
They can be clean but only if run well below maximum output. Remember this amp only has a total final plate dissipation of around something equal to a single 572B. What would you expect a single 572B to sound like at 500+ watts out? I'll give you a hint: It's brown and circles the bowl when the little handle is pressed. :whistle:[/QUOTE said:
Rated 1kw input maybe, but won't do 1kw output, if they do they wont do it for long before the smoke escapes
But the funny thing is that your TL-922 has TRIODES in it. Those 3-500Z's are triodes and are the most popular high power glass tubes out there in the amateur market. Those 572B's are triodes as well. In fact pretty much all high power amps do use triodes be they 572B's, 3-500Z or 3CX800A7 or 3CX1200 or the 3CX1500.Tetrodes and pentodes offer much higher gain but they are also much easier to over-drive because of that and as such are more prone to sounding like crap in the hands of the mo-powa crowd. Triodes can have more gain if grid driven as well instead of grounded grid but the grounded grid is an inherently stable design at HF.
Most people do not understand input versus output nor do they understand that amps used to be rated by INPUT power and not OUTPUT. They drive the crap out of them to make that 1+ Kw that they think the amp is rated for.
BJ radionut
Supporting Member and 6m addict
I remember a statement on one thread...
1000 watts output from a pair of 811A's
Also love it when I see someone state they get 2KW output from a stock SB220 or L4B
If they truly believe that!....All I can say is... NFL...
Not For Long
All the Best
Gary
1000 watts output from a pair of 811A's
Also love it when I see someone state they get 2KW output from a stock SB220 or L4B
If they truly believe that!....All I can say is... NFL...
Not For Long
All the Best
Gary
While on the subject I just want to see if I got it right. When they say input they mean how much juice it pulls from the power supply, and input times efficiency equals output. Is this correct?
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