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Anytone Ares 2

This goes without saying, but you are doing this at your own risk.
Good advice.
I am seeing guys on a couple facebook groups that have bricked radios playing in the service menu already.
I am sure they will start showing up on on craigs and market place for sale to unsuspecting buyers....
It's not like the old days were you could just turn the vr back were it was.

73
Jeff
 
Somewhere there's a file that was used to upload this toy's firmware after it was assembled. It's not like the bad old days when you plugged a controller chip into a socket on a programming board and uploaded its program before putting the chip into the radio. These days it's more like a cell phone, but without the USB socket. There will be an interface inside, maybe only six bare foil pads. It's called the "ISP" or something like that, as in "In-System Programming. The firmware gets uploaded through this hookup when the radio is first assembled. Gotta figure you could unbrick the thing through that back door. But only if you have the file with the factory firmware on it.

73
 
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Ok. Here is the 5555N II service menu parameters. This goes without saying, but you are doing this at your own risk. I’m not responsible to anything that happens to your radio by doing this. Please take note of all original setting from factory on a pad or paper before changing anything so you can put it back (hopefully). Be careful when attempting to adjust some of the parameters as some may need test equipment to obtain those numbers back. In other words, you might screw the radio up and not get it back.

All the ones I adjusted were easy to adjust without harm and able to go back by just turning the channel selector, except adjusting the S-meter. It will requires a signal generator to safely get it back to the original setting, but I knew I didn’t want that anyways. Every Anytone I ever used required the S-meter to be adjusted as they all come screwed up.



Here is the Service menu for both 5555N and the Ares II. All the original settings from my radios are list with the few of my adjustment numbers in ( XX ).



For some reason, the wide band TX sound good on the Ares II (FF) but I feel on the 5555N II it sounds better at (0000). It just has a little more punch in the audio. But on the Ares II, this really helps clean that crunchy and chopped up audio and sounds better. Try it out and see for yourself.



To fix the S-Meter reading, you will have to have a signal generator or make your own with another transceiver (which is what I did, since my signal generator died years ago). You will have to inject or dial down the signal as low as possible to adjust these low S units to favorable setting. You can also do it another way by listening to other stations on the air that come in weak and quickly turn the dial to hopefully get a number you want to try. It will constantly change up and down due to the signals present on the air. You will have to go back and forth, but you will get there also.

On the Ares II, the main number you want to adjust is S-5. It needs to go higher than the number you have from the factor. The higher the number, the greater signal strength needed to move it. It appears the factor has a lower threshold number which is why it stays there all day.

My numbers my not work for your radio, so you will have to play with it dozens of times to dial it in.

On the 5555N II, I didn’t have to mess with the R-5 setting, just the R1 and R3. But on the Ares II, I needed to do all three. I could probably dial it in better, but at the moment, it is good enough and way better than what the factory did. It drops down quickly once the signal is gone. It drops to just below the 1-S unit and hangs for a second and then drops completely if there is no other signal present. It is almost like this unit has a Peak S meter setting built in. I would like to shut it off if it does. But it is so nice to see the meter working like this versus the hang on S-5 all day long whether there is a signal or not. Why Anytone adjust radios like this is beyond me.



Oh, note that with band selector on ‘D’ and the switch on ‘L’, my radio automatically went to channel 20 (27.205) for the test frequency when in the service menu.

It will be on USB automatically when trying to adjust U1-UC S-meter.



My radio only needed 1 click to get it dialed in to be on frequency, as you can see on my chart. They are that close from the factory, but I’m very picky and wanted it dead on.



Also, when you try to clean the audio up, you see I turned down the SSB High output a bit. So now it only does about 20-25 watts PEP but it sounds cleaner. You would think that turning down the output from the outside of the radio would produce the same effect, but for some reason it doesn’t clean the audio as does when you adjust it in the service menu. I tried this but it stayed crunchy and choppy sounding no matter how low I turn the output down from the outside. Hence, you see that I did this to both of the radio and it really does make a difference if you care for a cleaner sounding audio. Take this bit info for what you will. There might be other parameter settings that will clean it up also or even better. Let me know if you find a better way to do this. But in the mean time, this setting that I have adjusted has greatly helped these radios out.



I’m much happier with the radio now and can start using it with a smile on my face.



Anyways, I hope this helps and good luck.

Rick
P.S. I hope I saved it as a file you can view.
What I really need to know, is what the Ares II/QT-40 service menu abbreviations mean. Example: U0...what is it? They are not really self explanatory.
 
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BTW, Radioddity has a 20% off code for the entire site. The QT-60 is not in stock, but the 40 is at $160 free ship plus tax. I feel bad, very bad for the people here with RAD. You have my sympathy.
 
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What I really need to know, is what the Ares II/QT-40 service menu abbreviations mean. Example: U0...what is it? They are not really self explanatory.
Yup. A good question for sure. But if you look at the 5555N II chart, it has something to do with the weather frequency. But what exactly does it do when being adjusted is the question. Unfortunately, that is the best info that I have at the moment. But for sure, there was enough info for me to get this radio working way better and to my liking, so I'm happy for sure. All the initial issues I had with this radio are gone. Yeah!
Thanks again everyone for your help. Much appreciated.
 
Yup. A good question for sure. But if you look at the 5555N II chart, it has something to do with the weather frequency. But what exactly does it do when being adjusted is the question. Unfortunately, that is the best info that I have at the moment. But for sure, there was enough info for me to get this radio working way better and to my liking, so I'm happy for sure. All the initial issues I had with this radio are gone. Yeah!
Thanks again everyone for your help. Much appreciated.
I am going to screw around with the S meter calibration. Like others here, I cal my S meters -73 dBm for S9. I will adjust the smaller values accordingly at 6 dB per S unit and see how it goes.

I don't have my QT-40 hooked up right now, but I may today just for fun. I have a QT-60 also and will do the same with the S meter. Too bad Radioddity has no QT-60's right now. They may miss the end of year sales window. $260 less 20% makes it $208 shipped plus tax. That is insane!
 
Ok. Here is the 5555N II service menu parameters. This goes without saying, but you are doing this at your own risk. I’m not responsible to anything that happens to your radio by doing this. Please take note of all original setting from factory on a pad or paper before changing anything so you can put it back (hopefully). Be careful when attempting to adjust some of the parameters as some may need test equipment to obtain those numbers back. In other words, you might screw the radio up and not get it back.

All the ones I adjusted were easy to adjust without harm and able to go back by just turning the channel selector, except adjusting the S-meter. It will requires a signal generator to safely get it back to the original setting, but I knew I didn’t want that anyways. Every Anytone I ever used required the S-meter to be adjusted as they all come screwed up.



Here is the Service menu for both 5555N and the Ares II. All the original settings from my radios are list with the few of my adjustment numbers in ( XX ).



For some reason, the wide band TX sound good on the Ares II (FF) but I feel on the 5555N II it sounds better at (0000). It just has a little more punch in the audio. But on the Ares II, this really helps clean that crunchy and chopped up audio and sounds better. Try it out and see for yourself.



To fix the S-Meter reading, you will have to have a signal generator or make your own with another transceiver (which is what I did, since my signal generator died years ago). You will have to inject or dial down the signal as low as possible to adjust these low S units to favorable setting. You can also do it another way by listening to other stations on the air that come in weak and quickly turn the dial to hopefully get a number you want to try. It will constantly change up and down due to the signals present on the air. You will have to go back and forth, but you will get there also.

On the Ares II, the main number you want to adjust is S-5. It needs to go higher than the number you have from the factor. The higher the number, the greater signal strength needed to move it. It appears the factor has a lower threshold number which is why it stays there all day.

My numbers my not work for your radio, so you will have to play with it dozens of times to dial it in.

On the 5555N II, I didn’t have to mess with the R-5 setting, just the R1 and R3. But on the Ares II, I needed to do all three. I could probably dial it in better, but at the moment, it is good enough and way better than what the factory did. It drops down quickly once the signal is gone. It drops to just below the 1-S unit and hangs for a second and then drops completely if there is no other signal present. It is almost like this unit has a Peak S meter setting built in. I would like to shut it off if it does. But it is so nice to see the meter working like this versus the hang on S-5 all day long whether there is a signal or not. Why Anytone adjust radios like this is beyond me.



Oh, note that with band selector on ‘D’ and the switch on ‘L’, my radio automatically went to channel 20 (27.205) for the test frequency when in the service menu.

It will be on USB automatically when trying to adjust U1-UC S-meter.



My radio only needed 1 click to get it dialed in to be on frequency, as you can see on my chart. They are that close from the factory, but I’m very picky and wanted it dead on.



Also, when you try to clean the audio up, you see I turned down the SSB High output a bit. So now it only does about 20-25 watts PEP but it sounds cleaner. You would think that turning down the output from the outside of the radio would produce the same effect, but for some reason it doesn’t clean the audio as does when you adjust it in the service menu. I tried this but it stayed crunchy and choppy sounding no matter how low I turn the output down from the outside. Hence, you see that I did this to both of the radio and it really does make a difference if you care for a cleaner sounding audio. Take this bit info for what you will. There might be other parameter settings that will clean it up also or even better. Let me know if you find a better way to do this. But in the mean time, this setting that I have adjusted has greatly helped these radios out.



I’m much happier with the radio now and can start using it with a smile on my face.



Anyways, I hope this helps and good luck.

Rick
P.S. I hope I saved it as a file you can view.
So, I played some more with the switch positions to get into service mode. The "Band" must be UP (H), "ANL/NB" in "ANL" and "NRC" off, Hold DN and PTT while powering on, slide NRC to SET then back to OFF, release PTT and DN.
 
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I made a change in the PA, for no other reason than because I can. I replaced the IRF520's with IRFZ24. I have 52 Watts PEP SSB and 55 Watts FM now. It is still clean.
 
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